Lol my Christmas was late this year
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Lol my Christmas was late this year
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Finally finished ordering everything now just waiting for the stuff to arrive. Still waiting on seat covers, strano sway bars, rear konis, umi a arm kit and hardware, the vette shift knob. My office is starting to look like a car part storage room.
Full list of stuff that will be going on the car this spring as follows. All new suspension components - Strano sway bars and springs, Koni yellow on car adjustable shocks/struts, UMI upper and lower a arms, Founders lower control arms and pan hard bar (cheaper then replacing the rod ends on the UMI pieces with their roto joints), Founders torque arm, UMI torque arm relocation kit, MWC drive shaft safety loop, real leather seat covers, seat heaters, vette shift knob and finally going to get around to putting on the 6LE rear diffuser and front splitter ive had for a couple years but just never got around to doing it.
This should keep me busy for a while.
You have just about 2 months to get it all ready for your trip to the GM Nationals in Carlisle. Come join us! :D
Was out cruising yesterday and some guy in a pickup was in the middle lane on the eway and tried cutting over the last minute to get off on an exit....the same exit I was just starting to get off on.... and he plowed through all the construction cones. The cones went flying everywhere and I literally had to lock them up at about 70mph and swerve several times to dodge the cones which were flying/rolling back at me. He kept going and I chased him down. Two idiots. I looked over the car when I got home very quickly and didn't see anything. I still don't know how I managed to dodge them.
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Wish I could but we are taking a big family vacation before my nephew joins the army that weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
Yikes, Jon. That had to get the blood pressure up a few points. Idiots.
Holy shit Jon!!! When did you move to Maryland??!! LOL That's the kind of garbage that happens here several times a day. It's like everyone and their sister is drunk or high and go out driving. No respect for other drivers or any awareness what so ever of their surroundings. Even when you pull off next to them and give them the "WTF" look, they seem completely oblivious that they did anything wrong. Too bad you dont have train horns mounted under your hood to give them a nice 10 second blast!! LOL Glad to here you (and the SS) made it out without any issues. Great driving Cole Trickle!!!!
Treated like VIP today at GM dealer ! After fixing all the little nits on the car --- with all of your help, thanks :-) --- I brought 30th Ann Ed. T/Am in for a proper major service. Much buildup as one of the techs there owns a similar year ws6 and is going to handle for me. Service guys were all dying to drive my ride. Good news: major vibration and rattle under hard throttle in 3-5k rpm range turned out to be just a worn tranny mount.
Better news: it was NOT internal valves, rockers, chains, etc. ! HOORAY ! Can't wait to get car back from first major service in over a decade. Replaced all fluids: tranny, diff, coolant, oil, greased the ball joint and other fittings, siliconed and weather-stripped, rotated tires, and had the full multi-point inspection. New brake pads to boot ! Re-Birth !
Tech said rotors "rusted and worn" but have driven fine to my feel, and I can't imagine at 40k miles of "mid-aged guy driving" they're below 1223"and .985" Front/rear min. thickness. Told them I'd take another look in 10k miles. So, not too bad for the first in-shop visit in a LOOOOOONG time for this car. I ran to dealer as 2nd owner told me last week that 1st owner hadn't really driven it more than 50miles/year from '02 to '11, and 2nd owner only changed oil every year from '11 to '15. No other maintenance.
Absolutely hilarious: on the 20 mile drive to dealer today, the "Change Oil" light came on. F A T E !
Great news! Rotors all-around were comfortably above the min. thickness (after a grind) and way over the discard thicknesses per Haynes manual. I told dealer I'd keep the rotors. They said rusted and should think about replace, but correct me if wrong, but even I know from the 1970s and 1980s that rusted rotors are fine as long as not warped. Won't some hard driving with new pads clean off any rust? They looked shiny as a silver spoon to me.... Is that just dealer trying to push $$$ rotors on me? I'd rather be rough on a set of new pads than replace 4 rotors at 40k miles. Thoughts?
Depends how rusted. As rust will eventually eat into the rotor and destroy it. Me I replace if rusted especially if I've never replaced the rotors on the car or it's been a really long time.
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Rotors can get rusty enough that they won't clean up nicely.
Here's what might have happened at the dealer. They probably assumed you'd be happier with fresh, clean, brand new rotors.
It seriously was just like that scene lolQuote:
Originally Posted by RONS98TA
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New seat covers came in today but one of the headrest covers are missing. Waiting to hear from 6le. Of course they arrived Friday afternoon which means I probably won't hear anything till Monday.
Patience is not my strongest trait.
Found the other headrest was going inside and look down and it was behind a flower pot. Must of fallen out of the giant hole fedex left in the box an I was in a rush and just didn't notice.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...b5b43e5698.jpg
Got the newer 0411 pcm to swap into my 98.
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Finally...pass. side motor mount, plugs, and wires are done! Header is in, coil pack is in! Tomorrow pulling tranny to measure slave and clutch! (Plus new tranny cross-member and mount with TA mount!)
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...F1F820E1D3.jpg
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...903FA7E942.jpg
Good clearance?
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...28CE657F15.jpg
First time the hood's been down in a while! DUSTY!
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...923C710420.jpg
Nice work man. But I can't believe you leave the window down on it while it sits. I would fear dust build up inside like a mad man haha!
I should have had my shop do new motor mounts when I had my headers/exhaust put in.
The car was covered for most of the winter! Now I'm feeling your pain!8-(Quote:
Originally Posted by DarrenWS6
LOTS of dust!
If you find that those MSD wire's are too tight for your tastes look for the truck version of those MSD's. They are a couple of inches longer and make it easier to position and clear the heads and exhaust.Quote:
Just got my new PS pump bracket. Nice piece for $50. My OEM one has a striped threads for the pump bolts. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...pseohxfifz.jpg
Also the OEM part is no longer produced, you either have to find one from a junkyard, install as helicoil or order one like this.
I could have helicoil but this looks so much better then the OEM piece so why not.
Or, just bend the boot on the MSD wire. I did that on several of ours to gain additional clearance.
Yuppers, they seem to hold their "new" shape quite well!Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
I needed to go with the truck wires because the 5.3/6.0 coil packs sit higher on the valve cover then the LS1 coils.
I'll keep that in mind for the next set of upgrades! :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
So I go about tonight trying to find an annoying damn noise that's been going on for a while. I narrowed it down to the ps pump. I figured that the bracket that the pump bolts to might be the issue. 2 of the bolt holes had been partially stripped, how no clue. But I didn't expect to find this...
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psr4pa4ew5.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psjdrsxlda.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psza8gta6a.jpg
Sure glad I got this...
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psh50mqnor.jpg
Just curious, who is doing your real leather seat covers? My drivers side is coming apart at the seams, literally and I need to get mine replaced too, but only the drivers side, the passenger side is like new. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by raynor139
The set I bought is from 6litreater design. If your just wanting one seat done your probably better off hitting up a local shop. Most every place on online sales kits. I did see one or two that sold single seats but it was vinyl. The set I got is for both front and rear seats and ran me about 1250 after discounts. That's with some custom work. They start at 1100 for a full set.
Sweet!Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TASo I go about tonight trying to find an annoying damn noise that's been going on for a while. I narrowed it down to the ps pump. I figured that the bracket that the pump bolts to might be the issue. 2 of the bolt holes had been partially stripped, how no clue. But I didn't expect to find this...
Sure glad I got this...
Not for my TA but for my Vette...http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...9885d7ca82.jpg
Although it came with a broken tab on the bottom.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...e7186913e4.jpg
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With the broke off tab it'll weigh less and hence your car will go faster. Just sayin'. :D
Lol well IDK if they'll fix it because my wife didn't notice the damage when it came and I wasn't home. But I think it will be pretty easy to get fixed. At a minimum I'll cut the tab off my stock bumper for now and attach it.
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I hate installing crank pullies....
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Took my '99 ws6 with fixed tranny mount, new pads, rotated tires and all fresh filters & fluids (diff, tranny, engine oil, coolant) maybe for first time ever on all but oil...
... for a really solid high-rpm back-roads drive and beginning process of bedding in the new brake pads a la TireRack and other sites. Got to put a few hundred miles on them before I really do the bedding heat-up/cool-down process, right ? Any common mistakes with pad-bedding on used stock rotors and new stock GM pads (semi-metallic) I should know about?
She's coming to life after a long slumber. (Only used 50 miles/yr. from 2002 to 2012 by 1st owner, per 2nd owner I bought from).
Recently got my hood repainted and needed decals, so I thought I would try to match the yellow license cover bird, and side Trans Am logos, with yellow RamAir decals!
http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/u...rider1/013.jpg
http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/u...rider1/012.jpg
I also got an extra decal, so I put it on the up spoiler tail light.
http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/u...rider1/020.jpg
I drilled holes in the underside of my hood for some heat extractors, to match the nostrils of the ram air hood. Didn't think it would be such a PITA, but it took nearly 5 hours start to finish!! I then made some minor adjustments to the exhaust to stop a rattle. Then changed the oil and put in some fresh oil. Only had about 1500 miles since the last time I changed it May 2015. LOL
Not a TA, but its an F-body. I helped my buddy Brian out with a Tick clutch master cylinder on his 2001 Camaro SS. Pretty straight forward install. Only issue was the wires under the brake power booster make it a close and tight fit. Then when we were on the home stretch and it was time to bleed the system, I dropped my F-IN SOCKET INSIDE THE BELL HOUSING OF THE TRANSMISSION!!!!! Holy mother of GOD what a pain to get that out. We kinda got lucky and separated the case and used 2 magnets to fish it out. The only other possibility would be to remove the entire assembly out of the car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyGFirebird
I bed brakes immediately after install. Take a ride and get the car up to around 25-30 mph and then bring it to a firm stop. Keep doing this for about 20 cycles to get the brakes nice and warm and then keep driving without using the brakes to cool them off.
+1 with pajeff. Bed'em right away. I use the 30 30 30 method described in TireRack.com . Always had good results.
Thks Gents !
Ordered new clutch packs for my 8.8.
Hey BobbyG, we can see your blue wheels on your Avatar !! I gotta update mine as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyGFirebird
I'm officially registered for the GM Carlisle event in June. Can't believe I did it before the discount expired .. it's usually what I do
I have a new girlfriend and have been enjoying the car with her some. Her father's dog jumped up on it and scratched my passenger side door however, that sucked. Otherwise I love the way her and the car look hahah!
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps8te3eyor.jpg
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...psc0et60p2.jpg
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...psgfmvgyys.jpg
Congrats! Good to see you happy.
Beautiful lady with a good look'n car, sorry to hear about the scratches on the passenger door.
But I do have one question, whos idea was it to "reverse" the last picture?
What tip me off was the WS6 is backwards and on the drivers side of the car, then I noticed the ladys dress goes over her right shoulder and then I noticed her hair is parted on the other side but what really tip me off was that the antenna appears to be on the drivers side of the car.
:lol: I figured someone would notice. She has an Iphone ( i'm an android guy ) and I give her heck for it at times. Her 'self portrait' mode reverses everything. On my phone ( samsung s6 edge + ) does not have that issue, and it takes better pics :DQuote:
Originally Posted by 024mula
My iPhone doesn't do that. The "preview" as I'm taking a pic looks like I'm looking in a mirror (reversed), but the actual saved image is correct. For example, I can read the words on my shirt
There were some tiny white dots on my passenger side rearview mirror, and I took a razor blade to it to remove them. Wrong choice! The razor scratched the 'glass' and everytime the sun would hit it they would reflect. So, I ordered a new glass, got it quick from Ebay, took the old one off(had to pull it very firmly after positioning it so I could see myself), then after I got it off, had to crack the 'glass', then clean all the stickum stuff off of the mirror mount(scraper, GooGone, wire brush, and more GooGone, then soap and water/dawn and a scrub brush, then rubbing alcohol) The new mirror came with OBJECTS IN MIRROR ARE CLOSER THAN THEY APPEAR etched just like the OEM. It also came with two, 2" diameter sticky pads to adhere the mirror to the mirror mount. Then reinstalled it in the rearview mirror, which was challenging. Have to get everything lined up and then press very firmly. Thought I was going to break it, but thank God I didn't!! Looks like new. I'd have a pic, but y'all know what a rearview mirror looks like!!:)
^^ Glad you were able to fix it. I scrape glass all the time with a razor blade -- paint cleanup, inspection stickers, track decals, and have never had an issue. Must be the mirror face is a softer glass?
Did you use a soap solution? Johnsons baby shampoo mixed with distilled water is best and cost effective. #1 window tint application solution. A bare dry blade will lead to disaster everytime.
Yes, I was talking to a mechanic the other day, and he said the glass on the rearview mirrors was a softer glass. He said I should have used a plastic razor blade instead of a metal blade. Live and Learn!! I'm like you Jeff, I've scraped decals off of my windshield from previous owners and it didn't scratch at all. I just figured it would be the same on the rearview mirrors!
Well, one thing for certain, Darren, I won't be doing that again, unless I use your mixture, or a plastic razor blade! Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarrenWS6I have a new girlfriend and have been enjoying the car with her some. Her father's dog jumped up on it and scratched my passenger side door however, that sucked. Otherwise I love the way her and the car look hahah!
She seems very happy to be with you and getting a ride in your car!
She's a smart girl!
Quote:
Originally Posted by herculesrider1
I've replaced some sideview mirrors before, and had the passenger side custom etched to say "Objects in mirror are about to disappear" lol.
I replaced my drivers side motor mount, transmission mount, O2 sensors on the headers (Bank 1 was slow) and bought/installed the Dorman WS6 intake. I have to say, after everyone has said that the motor mounts are a real PITA to replace with long tube headers, it really wasn't that much of a challenge. Maybe it helps I've been a mechanic all my life and I had a lift. The passenger side could be harder, IDK, but yes it would be a lot easier to change the mounts when the exhaust is missing.
I'm happy with the Dorman, I did do some porting and had to clean up some internal runner blockages, and she now pulls with more urgency over about 3500 RPM. Hard to feel the ~12 HP gain, but I'd be happy to dyno the two intakes if someone pays me to R&R the intakes and the dyno time lol.
Had a busy day.. 2 oil changes and clutch pack swap on the 8.8.
Good news on the bird's oil change.....no metal or trash in the filter. Wasn't expecting any but with my luck and this a fresh build...well anything possible.
Clutch pack swap.
Everything went ok till installing the new s spring. It's new and beefier then the oem one.
So here's with the old...
Here's a comparison between old and new. There was no material on the old clutch fiber.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psh2wydkk5.jpg
The one on the right was next to the gear, they changed the order on the new pack to where steel goes there instead of the fiber.
These are suppose to be 2 pieces but are now fused into one
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psree77gge.jpg
Here's the biggest comparison...
old
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps9yaqnenc.jpg
New
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psw2pjh8un.jpg
Success...
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psuchs7ktq.jpg
And I did a breakin burn out to test it. Smokes both wheels :D Also I notice less noise and instant posi lock traction.
Drove it to work, crawled out and wondered why am I still driving this car.
Been working on these coil covers, they are definitely made for LS motors but definitely not the T/A so after what seems like a thousand test fits they are on. Now final sanding to clean up edges and remove scratches then I'm applying a coating I got from Eastwood to protect them. I will be back with the finished product shortly.http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...psoeb0wutn.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by bandit95
:hmm:
Oh it just makes me feel old trying to get out of this thing sometimes. Falling into it and hitting the fast pedal is what makes it worth it
I wonder if those will clear a FAST 102 with truck coils?Quote:
Originally Posted by kingls1Been working on these coil covers, they are definitely made for LS motors but definitely not the T/A so after what seems like a thousand test fits they are on. Now final sanding to clean up edges and remove scratches then I'm applying a coating I got from Eastwood to protect them. I will be back with the finished product shortly.
Possible price if you were to make a set?
Got them here Scott,TSP LS1 LS6 Coil Covers | eBay I bet they would fit with a little trimming, they fit my new 5.3 that's going in my mustang before I cut them up to fit the bird
What catch can is that and what lines and connections did you use for on the intake?
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I just realized why I sold my FRC's....it's wasn't so much as the FAST intake as much as it was because of the alternator relocation that I did. The FRC's would interfere with the alt's mounting hardware.Quote:
Originally Posted by kingls1
Feeling old at 32?! I must feel friggin' ancient then at my age. :rotfl:
The oil catch can is a cheapy from eBay and don't wast your money cause I can't get it to stop leaking, spent way to much time taking it on and off and it still leaks so it is going by by soon. The lines to it are just braided fuel lines with hose clamp ends hidden inside of the chrome nut from Summit. The fuel lines I made up with real braided line and AN fittingsQuote:
Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6
You can cut these away to fit I had to around my oil catch can bracket. Does it sit in front of your valve cover? One thing that sucked was trying to get the passenger side in because of the heater box as well as the oil dip stick. The driver side also had problems with the fuel rail and lines coming out. I really think they would be best at home on a LS swap with a carb or the fuel rails that sit on top of intake with the line going in front or rear. I think they will look cool when done or I keep saying that because I cut the shit out of $100 bill:lmao:Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
Ah cool thanks
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I'm crippled but won't trade my bird for anything....Quote:
Originally Posted by bandit95
'99 Trans Am ws6 v8 6-speed:
Gents, it has 6,000 pm red-line warning, but I note the tach goes to 7k. Is there a built-in engine cut-off anywhere at 6k, 6500, etc? I try to keep her below 6k, and even then have only blipped over 5-5.5k a few times for a brief second going up through the gears. Do you guys keep it below 5 for street driving? They tell us to keep our Harleys below 4k ! :-)
Turned a (minor) wrench on the ole gal for the first time in probably over a year. She has been having this terrible intermittent charging issue. I chalked it up to the PS pump I replaced a couple years ago already leaking again (which it does) and killing yet another alt. So I picked up a nice Powermaster alt and the relocation kit from CBR Performance (home state holla!) So I actually had a little free time this morning to play with it some and the last couple weeks from absolute hell and beyond, it helped me to take my mind off other crap. Since the car is a somewhat DD, even with the charging issue it never stranded me. Would just go from 13+ volts to 8 steady. Dimmer lights at night but drove fine and would sometimes just bounce back up to 13+. So I couldn't do the whole thing at once since I neglected to measure and get a new belt beforehand. So I figured that I would do a little prep work to get the ball rolling and make me want to work on it more. So I got under her and dropped the alt. I noticed something that had escaped my attention each time I pulled the alt before... it already had a spliced pigtail for the exciter wire. Not only had the pigtail been replaced but whoever did it was a hack. He used 12GA wire where the original was 18GA causing an unexpected change in resistance. Not only that but I had bare wire hanging all out of the weather pack with about an eighth of an inch movement in and out of the socket. Plus he used aluminum wire instead of copper. Since I couldn't complete the job in one go I decided to stop gap fix the issue by just lopping off the connector, stripping, twisting, soldering and heat shrinking the new pigtail in there. My suspicion is that it will allow the car to run fine again until I can find the time to do the full relocation. It certainly jumped back up to 13+ volts once done and backing off the ramps.
Attachment 26591
Attachment 26592
With that kit you won't have to worry about adding any new wire. You have to pull it out of the loom to get it placed into the passenger side loom. I measure it out a few extra inches then cut off the excess and re-plugged it into the harness.
I finally installed my new switch plate from Emblem Pros..
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psxjrd7dde.jpg
With the two pigtails I am sure there is plenty of wire now. Though when I re-locate it I am pulling the strand of 12ga aluminum out altogether and connecting my new pigtail directly to the harness.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
:yup:
You will want to invest into a 9/16" crow's foot. Using wrenches is a PITA.
Noted, haha. Been meaning to pick up a set of those anyway. Now I have an excuse.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
Also pay some attention to the power steering bracket. I'm not sure if the potted aluminum just gave out form age or because of the tension that this can add to the belt drive that it caused mine to crack. If it does pm me and I'll point you to where I got my nice billet aluminum piece.
Ick, that sucks. But I did see your bracket which looks super nice. I'll keep you in mind when it breaks though. Because I'm sure it will. I've already had the pot metal break on my side mirrors twice since putting in a cam.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
Depends on the tune where the rev limiter kicks in. All vehicles have one to keep the motor from blowing up. Stock is set to 6250rpm. Shifting well below that leaves a lot of power on the table.Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyGFirebird
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyGFirebird
^^^+1Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
It also comes down to what's in the car. My cam is spec'd out to 7,000rpm. My tuner set the rev at 6500 rpm. 1 - it gives me a cushion and 2- that is about right where the power peaks and falls off.
Only time I get into the 4's (rpm's is when I'm doing a hard acceleration or launching. Most times I'm shifting at around 3-3500 rpms. My gas tank thanks me for doing so.
Got all the new suspension parts installed. Springs, shocks, sway bars, upper and lower a arms.Changed out the lower control arms and pan hard bar to styles that don't use rod ends. Adj. torque arm and new UMI torque arm mount to get off the trans. MWC drive shaft safety loop installed also. Didn't get to drive it too long since it started raining while I was grilling dinner. Gotta play with the rear shocks and see where i like them set at and get the car aligned. It was too late in the day when it was all done. Buddy was joking I better find a place that specializes in vettes since it sits so low now. But gotta wait out another day or two of rain first. The stance looks great now no longer that 4x4 look. Just on the short drive i took from the shop to the house the car felt solid and planted and the rear didn't sound like it was gonna shake apart when backing up like it did on all the worn out stuff after the S60 was put in last year.
Now just gotta put the interior all back together. Since all the seats but the driver seat is out. Still putting the new leather seat covers on them. Then gotta pull and do the drivers seat. Plus all the interior panels that were taken out to do the shock install need to be put back in. Once that's done the only thing left for this season is finally installing the 6LE front splitter I've had for a while and I got a new version of their rear diffuser. Used to have the Chinese made one but it fit like crap and didn't want to put the kind of money needed into it to fix it. Now the new ones are american made and look so much damn better and just from the quick pre-fit before paint it looks like it will fit a lot better then the old style.
Once everything is done and the car is cleaned up ill get pics with all the new goodies on the car.
Looks like you're JUST 32 ??!! i'm almost 59..... mine makes me feel 32 just looking at it !! You're just a kid !!! Have fun !!!Quote:
Originally Posted by bandit95
Finally...clutch, tyranny, new UMI crossmember with TA mount,and poly tranny mount!
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...D728B8D657.jpg
Hopefully get the exhaust, driveshaft and TA in tomorrow! (And battery? I want to hear it!
^^ Looks like you are about ready to join us next month in Carlisle. :D
At this point if be happy to just drive it!
I can't promise Carlisle, but I'd love to get down your way and meet up for sure!
Locked the keys in it for the first time and didn't have a spare door key, will be getting one made post haste. I did manage to get it unlocked with one of those cheap flimsy tomato stakes though, haha. :sillyme:
Driveshaft, UMI tranny x-member with TA mount are all in! Exhaust is in! Still need to "finish" exhaust exits, then tighten everything down! Starter is back in...what a bitch! Hope that doesn't go bad soon!
Hopefully start it tomorrow!
Pretty tight!
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...1F8BA652D8.jpg
Fit was pretty good!
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...19287F642B.jpg
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...C932F6AA61.jpg
Gotta get things centered and raise up a bit...then crank the clamps down!
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...909ABD0C07.jpg
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...6D0CBDAB9A.jpg
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...36EFA732AD.jpg
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...B23CEC4BA6.jpg
I guess the next step will be a call to Frost!
I'm psyched to drive her!
Looks like the system fits well and you may be just in time for when the nice weather arrives.
I think the fuel cut-off is around 6300, but I like to keep mine below 6K, even though my build can (supposedly) run all the way to 7k (aftermarket heads/springs). I ran it to 7k once (on accident) and nothing happened. I run it past 5.5k at least once a day, and often 2-3 times a day.Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyGFirebird
Do you have the DYNO curve from when the car was tuned? That would show you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Naaman
When I had my car first DYNO'd with just headers, lid and exhaust, peak power was 330 HP and 342 TQ. Max HP was at 5500 rpm while max TQ was at a much lower rpm; 4280. The torque curve is also much flatter than the HP curve though, so even at 5260rpm the torque was still at 326. Rev limiter was set to 6280rpm.
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Yes, I do, but I'll have to dig it up. I have run it to 7K, and I did not experience a fuel cut off (though I when I realized I'd run it that high, I went for the next gear immediately, so I didn't hang around to find out about a cut-off).
About last night let's see...
Went to the local track for some fun. I'm rusty as hell, re-enforced my need for a new drive shaft, burnt some wires and almost got into a fight....
Drive shaft.....I was on street tires, so wheel spin like a mofo in 1st & 2nd, once into 3rd & sometimes in 4th...moved out like a freight train. In order to run slicks I need a new driveshaft or the oem one will become a pretzel. So just saving my penny's.
Rusty - Haven't driven on a track in over 3 yrs....learning curve with the car, transmission and even the track.....but had so much fun.
Burnt wires. Seems I overlooked something with my cutout. I couldn't figure out why I couldn't close it. Fun times coming in my neighborhood at 1 am..:firedevil:
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...pskgywod6t.jpg
So after a semi-quick repair and some heat shield tape...all better.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...pssrv7jzky.jpg
Took my daughter with me....she's getting hook on cars and track...mom's going to kill me.. :chuckles:
Then had to deal with a dumbass.....He lines up and tells me 6x's he's just running motor and not on Nitrous. I said ok, neither am I. Now I did might have fail to mention I wasn't a LS1 or anything else....So we line up....I tree him, but start spinning, quickly shift to 2nd and start moving out, at the 60ft I'm still spinning, but got it into 3rd...Now I'm really moving, I ended up getting into 4th and gapped him by 4 cars. We got around and get back in line and shut down. He comes out pissed off yelling about how I lied and all this bullshit, getting up in my face telling em he's going to kick my ass. Told him back off and listen, 1- no $$ was on the race so untie your panties, 2, I pop my hood and raised it, Tell me where the fuck is the nitrous hooked up too? You lost, end of story get over it.... By now the crowd is busting out laughing....he then leaves We ended up going again, this time I back off on launching and ended up gapping him by 6 cars. :D
I also ran a C6 and he comes up after and asks me how the hell I caught him....he still won but once in 3rd & 4th she just hauls ass....can't wait for slicks....
I enjoyed that read, Scott! :thumbup:
I've wondered what my car would run, if I ever had the will to go all out from a dig. I speculate its capable of low 12s, but on a stock drivetrain, I'm not willing to test it.
What were your time slips?
My "crew chief" in training didn't know I wanted to keep them. So she threw them away when we left the track. I only had 2-3 good runs. About 3-4 I ended up letting off for various reasons. One because my GoPro flew off. 2-3 I missed 3rd gear.
From what I remember my highest speed at the finish was 95.6mph and the Fastest was around 7.25
This is on an 1/8th mile track and street tires.
Almost all my 60ft's were bad from wheel spin but reaction times were getting better, all under a second.
OK, I'll ask: Mud-flaps on a ws6 ? :-) [washed and waxed my daily driver Nihongo Nippon wagon, and realized the mud flaps have done a super-hero job of protecting the paint for 21 years... ] Where can I get for my TransAm ws6 '99 ?
Look at 6LE Designs for their Canards. They expensive but the only place I know of that sells something like what you're looking for.
I am a huge fan of splash guards on our DD's, but have never installed any on our play cars - just ruins the look imo.
I'll just let the pics do the telling...
From FUGLY
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...pszg55ekcy.jpg
to sexy.....
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psjppyjsh3.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psucaqy2gt.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...pslljhuduw.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psywgyuheo.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps2pz3eu62.jpg
I don't have LED's but I like what I did................................
http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/z...2/100_1753.jpg
That's pretty good too
Where did you get that Scott? That would look good with my silver. Looks good with blue also Hell I thing it would go with all colors.....hahaha
