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I used to use Amsoil but the problem is that alot of places are not selling it anymore. The leak is somewhere underneath the engine close to the transmision bottom area. Im thinking that it is the seals between the engine and transmision. That will require to drop the tranny down to get to them. Not a job I can do myself. My buddy can do it but he charges $300 dollars to do it.
$300 is not that bad. You're talking about the rear main seal.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayTA98
I guess so I'm sure of all the names. i also have a gear oil leak in my rear end area and its pretty bad. I degreased averything and I can see that is leaking bad. I have over spray at the top of the bottom of the car like the main seal in the rear end is bad. I thing I can do that one. i just need the part number and some time.
sounds like the pinion seal, same thing was wrong with mineQuote:
Originally Posted by JayTA98
I see. Did you replace it yourself? Any part number for it? Was it hard?Quote:
Originally Posted by tatertot91
I didn't had it all done when i got my gears swappedQuote:
Originally Posted by JayTA98
looked it up
You need to remove the driveshaft, unscrew the nut, use a puller to remove the yoke, and then change the seal and reassemble. No adjusting if the bearings should need to be done to change the seal.
I'd use Auto-Rx (as directed), perhaps for two cleaning phases since it's @ 100K, and then maintenance doses thereafter. Don't waste your money with the Mobil 1, it is way, way overpriced for what you get. If you want to keep using a Group III oil, then use Pennzoil Platinum with a good filter (stay away from Fram), and a change interval of 5 to 7K miles depending on driving and climate conditions. If your 'occasional street racing' is several times per month or more, then I'd suggest shorter change intervals. The only way to really be precise is through UOA.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayTA98
^^^ Adding to the above, the K&N oil filter you are using is a good filter. And I love the 1" nut on the bottom--makes it very easy to remove.
Yeah I love the KN filterQuote:
Originally Posted by GatorSS
I keep reading and hearing that the nut has to be torqued to a specific rate depending if I reuse the crush sleeve. I was also thinking... if I remove the pinion and change the bearings, if I put the same shims and put everything back, it should be back to stock settings, right? I don't have to worry about about the backslash ? I mean I'm using the same shims. I just thinking not saying I'm correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by tatertot91
How hard is to get the nut lose and retight to the right torque? I just retight with a torque wrench like any other bolt or nut?
Lol I think I better make a thread for this. This is an oil thread. Sorry Sarge
Just took delivery of a 2010 GMC pickup truck, 5.3 iron block. What is considered the break in period? At what mileage is it safe go to fully synthetic oil?
I would say the first oil change. There is alot of new cars that come with syn for the factory.
Not being able to use synthetic to break in is a myth, its actually better to use synthetic than conventional, it wears the rings more evenly
you can switch over anytime. Just on high mileage you need to do an autorx treatment to help avoid oil leaksQuote:
Originally Posted by mrc54
hay sarge........i found this stuff call ACES.........ever heard of it....used it??
http://www.americancleanenergysystems.com/index.php
Never heard of them specific....but what they are doing is nothing new.....
i found it in a rebuild book by david vizzard....he swears by it
Seems similar to zMAX and a few others.Quote:
Originally Posted by sjsingle1
Sarge, any evaluation info on the new Pennzoil Ultra? Pennzoil claims it "removes 35 percent more engine sludge than Pennzoil Platinum."
dont think you put zmax in the gas..........no?