I'm a Oil Junkie

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Originally Posted by Ricardo

i have just replaced the oil
3 litres of Edge 0W30 and piston slap reduced to barely noticeable sound in cold engine and unnoticeable @ warm engine

this is D16Z9.. 90mm stroke honda 1.6 engine ... the 125 hp s0hc engine ..

i replaced spark plugs and air filter.. and
hold and behold.. the new OEM made in uk honda air filter 17220-P1K-E00
comes with the paper filter element soaked in thin oil...

anyone ever found such a thing?
the brand new air filter comes completely soaked in very thin oil... we can see it shinning in the tips of our fingers when we touch the "paper filter"
another ***king unhandled exception... lol

i am stil investigating if anything of this is normal.

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Yes here in the United States we have K&N filter soaked in oil. A old and not very efficient means of filtering air.

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Originally Posted by lonewolf37

http://blackstone-labs.net/(wudd2ren...spx?cid=D86047

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Must sign in as you ....

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Originally Posted by lonewolf37

http://blackstone-labs.net/(wudd2ren...spx?cid=D86047

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Lonewolf! Common! The suspense is killing everyone.

Blackstone Comments:

It looks like the engine handled the extended drain interval well. Metals again read at or less
than averages. The additive formulation in the spectral data of this sample is somewhat similar to that of the
last, but the sodium level appears a bit high for this oil type. This could be from additive in the previous fill,
but we'll watch sodium next time, as it is a major component in antifreeze. Physical characteristics of the oil
were stellar: the viscosity read in spec for this oil type, and no moisture or fuel was among the sample
content. 10K miles on the next fill looks realistic.

8500M on Amsoil with better results than 3500M on Edge.

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Originally Posted by lonewolf37

Blackstone Comments:

"It looks like the engine handled the extended drain interval well. Metals again read at or less
than averages. The additive formulation in the spectral data of this sample is somewhat similar to that of the
last, but the sodium level appears a bit high for this oil type. This could be from additive in the previous fill,
but we'll watch sodium next time, as it is a major component in antifreeze. Physical characteristics of the oil
were stellar: the viscosity read in spec for this oil type, and no moisture or fuel was among the sample
content. 10K miles on the next fill looks realistic."

8500M on Amsoil with better results than 3500M on Edge.

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It’s examples like this that prove all motor oils are not created equal and that top tier synthetics can easily go past the outdated 3,000-mile oil change interval.

So this means you can pay what? $7.47 a quart for 10W-30 Castrol Edge, or $6.70 a quart for 10W-30 Amsoil High Performance Synthetic, and the Amsoil can last three times as long as verified by Blackstone independence laboratory analysis; only real numbers and not marketing hype.

Also, I can’t see the actual wear numbers or remaining TBN content from the report, but dare I say that Amsoil’s 15,000-mile/1-year severe duty recommendation for this oil might not be too outlandish after a couple more oil change intervals and allowing the Amsoil chemistry a chance to really stabilize inside your engine?

AMSOIL for the win!!!

https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/im..._qt_300pxh.jpg

Amsoil 10W-30 100% High Performance Synthetic - link

Now only $6.70 per quart with the Amsoil Preferred Customer Membership - link

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Originally Posted by lonewolf37

The comments are the best I can do!

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Here's an example of how many folks post up their UOA data over at BITOG. Nothing fancy...

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Originally Posted by Bob Is The Oil Guy - UOA forums

This is my wife's car. Primarily used to drive 15 miles to work (30 miles per day). This oil was in one year. I'm surprised at the amount of iron (Flagged by Blackstone). Should I be concerned or any things to try? What do you guys think of trying Mobil 1?? TBN was pretty low.

Blackstone comments: For an oil run nearly 10,000 miles, wear looks good here. The average oil run for the 2.4L is ~5,500 miles so you can see how well your engine is wearing compared to most. Iron was high but that's the one wear metal that tends to track with miles on the oil so the high reading came as no surprise. As long as all other wear stays fairly low, like it did here, we don't worry too much about high iron. The TBN read 1.7 so you still had some, though not much, active additive left. A TBN reading of ~1.0 is considered too low for extended use. Try 11,000 miles next time.

Miles on oil: 9,900
Miles on Unit: 80,200
Makeup oil: 0
- This Run (Universal Avg.)
ALUMINUM - 5 (3)
CHROMIUM - 1 (1)
IRON - 22 (7)
COPPER - 1 (4)
LEAD - 0 (5)
TIN - 1 (0)
MOLYBDENUM - 4 (73)
NICKEL - 2 (0)
SILVER - 0 (0)
TITANIUM - 0 (0)
POTASSIUM - 2 (1)
BORON - 7 (44)
SILICON - 20 (11)
SODIUM - 7 (25)
CALCIUM - 3638 (2198)
MAGNESIUM - 14 (43)
PHOSPHORUS - 620 (699)
ZINC - 780 (849)
BARIUM - 0 (0)

SUS Viscosity @ 210°F - 57.0
cSt Viscosity @ 100°C - 9.35
Flashpoint in °F - 365
Fuel % - 0.5
Antifreeze % - 0
Water % - 0
Insolubles % - 0.3
TBN - 1.7

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Mobil 1 is good for brake-in's
as factory fill... to let the engine go loose and fresh and powerfull
or as regular use to gasoline engines that have low output per cubicage
it is very clean oil, well adapted to big V-american-family-car-engines

High performance engines require much better protection.

thats what i think of the UAO iv seen so far.. and experience with it.

current M1 0w40 is a.k.a. "the best 5W30 that Mobil manufactures"... since it shears-down very easily.
The aditive package is so big that the chemical stability is compromised and imperfect.
Therefor, suitable for new engines that need a moderate lubrication to soften the surface of every moving part, and need the detergency to clean it away for once and for all. Thus this gives you the well-performing new engine.

Ricardo....nothing "softens" the metal friend. That is bullshit. Mobil1 shears out of grade due crap add packs. They went cheap and blamed it on the weather ( Hurrican Ike)...and it's been so so oil ever since.

i knew that post was going to get sarge out haha.

Here is what, Tom Schaefer, retired vice president of sales and marketing for the Hatco Corporation recently said about the current state of Mobil 1 products.

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Originally Posted by Tom Schaefer – Bob Is The Oil Guy forum

"ExxonMobil sponsor this site, and I have to believe that more than a few of their managers/executives read it as well. We are, after all, a good representation of their target market for high performance synthetic oils, and our opinions reach far beyond this site as we talk to our friends and neighbors. It would be nice if they could step in here with some specific comments or explanations for our observations on their oil's performance - not the party line marketing fluff about being number one and trusted by top OEMs, but a head-on addressing of our wear concerns.

Hundreds of UOAs posted here show a trend of higher iron content, and several of their top competitors have publicly accused them of having higher wear rates than other similar products. As a long time M-1 user, this is enough to raise my eyebrows and seek an explanation, which I am not getting from them or the endless speculation and theories tossed around here. I think it would be to their benefit to talk to their customers, rather than continue to allow us to possibly misinterpret their silence.

As a former oil marketing executive I understand the safety of silence, but I also understand the importance of communicating with customers in an open and honest manner when it comes to real and relevant concerns. For the first time in 10 years I am beginning to lose faith in M1 and seriously considering changing brands. I really don't want to change, but I prefer to do business with companies who value their customer's opinions and concerns. Unfortunately, modern management teachings attempt to reduce business to a series of mathematical formulations rather than good old fashioned customer relationships. Size is no excuse for being out of touch with the people who buy your product."

Tom Schaefer

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:Popcorn:

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Originally Posted by Sarge

Ricardo....nothing "softens" the metal friend. That is bullshit. Mobil1 shears out of grade due crap add packs. They went cheap and blamed it on the weather ( Hurrican Ike)...and it's been so so oil ever since.

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yes... its not exactly "softening" as you said

i meant, this process:
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

I just put in mobil 1 10w-30 500mi ago. Heard some less than flattering things when I was browsing through the road race section on another sight whooppeee!:rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by Ricardo

yes... its not exactly "softening" as you said

i meant, this process:
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

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That is based on very old machining processes that have not been around for many years and no longer apply.

Until I found this thread, I didn't know oil could be so interesting... how it can tell the story of an engine... Thank you everyone for sharing what you have learned, especially Sarge... I really admire your attitude and approach, experimenting a little and then making judgments based on measured results instead of marketing and rumours... a real world scientist. I have certainly learned a lot about oil here, but more than anything I have learned to test and measure.

I have not owned an LS1 powered car before. I am shopping for LS1 F-bodies around Dallas, preferably 6 speeds. Most of the cars I have found for sale have 70-120K on the clock. Once I get a car, I would probably drive it at least twice a week and possibly daily... driving to work, cruising on the weekends, probably never see the track. I don't plan on doing lots of mods, at least for a while, the usual intake/exhaust and maybe a mild head/cam setup after a bit... we all have big dreams... I would like to build a turbo'd forged iron block some day for grins but it's good to be honest and practical about what you're really gonna do with the car...

What should I do with the car immediately after purchasing it, as far as fluids and procedures? I have heard lots of good stuff about Seafoam and Auto-RX and plenty about oil and UOAs, but I don't know what products I need to use, and when. Should I do a UOA before anything else and then a Seafoam treatment and Auto-RX, or the treatments first and then a UOA? What's the procedure for using Auto-RX? When should I replace the oil and air filters? Is replacing the fuel filter and plugs good for preventative maintenance, or does it make more sense to just do those things as needed? What would you guys suggest for an oil for daily-driven LS1 in Texas? I take it Royal Purple is good stuff for the rear end... what about lube for a 6 speed?

Edit: I completely forgot to ask about tuning and maintenance after cleanup... better to do the flushes and treatments to clean up the motor first, and then get a tune, correct? And once all that's out of the way, what oil should I use for regular changes? Any other suggestions for shakedown and cleanup for a used car?

Sorry for the bundle of questions, I'm still learning... slow process but I appreciate all the info everyone has shared already. Thanks in advance for your advice.

With any "new" used car I do the following...
AutoRX. Follow the instructions.
Flush and fill trannie and coolant.
Replace the rear end fluid.
Run Techron Concentrate through the fuel system
Belts and wipers etc. replace if needed.

PS: Cars are much cheaper and more to choose from in San Antonio.

For the older engines with flat tappet cams and solid street roller cam the best
combo is Mobil 1 filter with Shell Rotella Oil.

The Rotella is high grade diesel oil that is fine for gas engines and
it has the most Zinc and other properties then all oils. Except for
your pure racing oils that aren't recommended for street use.

Even the cam grinders are recommending it.

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Originally Posted by jj62

For the older engines with flat tappet cams and solid street roller cam the best
combo is Mobil 1 filter with Shell Rotella Oil.

The Rotella is high grade diesel oil that is fine for gas engines and
it has the most Zinc and other properties then all oils. Except for
your pure racing oils that aren't recommended for street use.

Even the cam grinders are recommending it.

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There are a lot of people who use Shell Rotella T in flat tappet applications. It is cost effective and readily available. ZDDP levels still show up at around 1200ppm, but with the newer API CJ-4 (SM) standards, the ZDDP levels could be reduced at any time without warning to meet the demands of new environmental mandates.

Besides Shell Rotella T, there are many other great choices out there.

For example, Amsoil recommends the following for high performance flat tappet cam applications.

http://competitionsynthetics.com/pro...ppet_specs.jpg

BTW, Amsoil Dominator Race Oils have detergents in them unlike other full race oils, so they are completely compatible for street use.

As for the oil filter, the Amsoil/Donaldson synthetic oil filters have better filtering efficiency than the mentioned synthetic/paper blend oil filters.

http://www.amsoil.com/graphs/eao/eao...ency_500px.jpg

Pennzoil Platinum and Valvoline Synpower are on sale at O'Reilly's for 3.99 a quart till the 20th of Oct for those who are interested.

Sarge, what do you use for air filters?

Yes, Sarge, what do you prefer for air filters? And, for that matter, what do you prefer for all your automotive filters? Thanks in advance.