I'm a Oil Junkie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ricardo

10k miles??? = must have lower quality break-in oi? = must do a proper brake in with.... a low quality (woo :)) Mobil 1 API SM oil... and ride normaly without redling during another 10 k

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For the most part, minus the myths, it's been widely accepted that synthetic motor oil can be used from the very beginning of engine life. This is backed up by the fact that many new vehicles come new with synthetic motor oil as factory fill.

Now if we are talking 60s and 70s era muscle cars with flat-tappet camshafts, it's been reported by some reliable sources, and I haven't seen this data, it's beneficial to break-in flat-tappet cams with a high zinc conventional motor oil break-in period before using synthetic oils.

Also, I wouldn't consider Mobil 1 to be low quality even though there are some brands that return better UOAs. Further, API (SM) rated oils have a tough testing seqence they must pass.

Unless you're buying the $0.98 cent Accent brand (non API SM rated) motor oil from the local big box store, it's hard to get a true "low quality" motor oil these days.

Rather than saying low quality, I'd say that some brands have returned better UOAs as shown in this thread.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CompSyn

Rather than saying low quality, I'd say that some brands have returned better UOAs as shown in this thread.

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When you compare 'em to Amsoil there all low quality. :notworthy::D
























Do I get my FREE stuff now?? :happy:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CompSyn

For the most part, minus the myths, it's been widely accepted that synthetic motor oil can be used from the very beginning of engine life. This is backed up by the fact that many new vehicles come new with synthetic motor oil as factory fill.

Now if we are talking 60s and 70s era muscle cars with flat-tappet camshafts, it's been reported by some reliable sources, and I haven't seen this data, it's beneficial to break-in flat-tappet cams with a high zinc conventional motor oil break-in period before using synthetic oils.

Also, I wouldn't consider Mobil 1 to be low quality even though there are some brands that return better UOAs. Further, API (SM) rated oils have a tough testing seqence they must pass.

Unless you're buying the $0.98 cent Accent brand (non API SM rated) motor oil from the local big box store, it's hard to get a true "low quality" motor oil these days.

Rather than saying low quality, I'd say that some brands have returned better UOAs as shown in this thread.

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ok i see.. so let me clarify why i said that

generically

the factory synthetic means... a guy buys a car to work all over the country... in 2 years he can do 50000 Km with that oil... with no problems.. driving in highway all the time, the aditives make the oil so stable that it lasts longer
within this... M1 0W40 is known ironicaly as mobil's best 5w30 oil-- it brakes down after 3k miles or 5k km

and this is european perspective - how i live it

mobil 1 (0w40) as low quality oil means .. to me my experience
low quality means a oil that is defective in lubricating a undersquared engine... where the loss of power is evident, to me indicates optimal lubrication not present.

my experience is limited to seeing the reactions of a 90mm stroke engine to that oil... its very sensitive to the oil ... i read a lot in the net and looked at a few UAO's. So any change in the oil i easily noticed. Noise, output, level drop, color, start-up noises. All that changes noticeably when the oil changes.

Now.. You guys have V6 V8 etc... thats a difierent story. Much more forgiving. Mobil 1 can lubricate that type of engines a lot easier. Engines are very smooth inside. Thats why you can - after all - use much thiner oils nnW20 or nnW30. Longer roads you have too.

Here in average-joe workshops...(southern europe) only more recently, regarding "modern" engines people started to know the engines as requiring aplications of thin W30 oil...


about prices

example honda' s 10w40 OEM oil self at 45eur = 4L (castrol GTX series...professional series)

100% syntetics are very rare... only OEM oils perhaps

GC costs 100 euro... (4L) sell best at 80 €,. few can buy it lower.. its edge 0w30 and 5w30

any good "fully" syntetic (hidrocraked) costs 50 to 70 € (5w40 or 0W40) total cepsa BP

M1 = 45 € its the cheapst of the fully syntetics

semi-syntetics (10w40) cost average 30 € to 50 €

then minerals go from 19 to 30 € (10W40) (15W40) (20w50)

THE cheapest oils cost 3,5 €.
that cheap oil.. .can give us lots of easily burned and evaporated oil, but not that hard gunky sludged oil as the bigger V-engines are more prune to suffer from.

royal purple sythetic in the t/a

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bluehawk2000

royal purple synthetic in the t/a

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WalMart SuperTech Synthetic returns better wear numbers than Royal Purple. Seriously.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ricardo

ok i see.. so let me clarify why i said that

generically

the factory synthetic means... a guy buys a car to work all over the country... in 2 years he can do 50000 Km with that oil... with no problems.. driving in highway all the time, the aditives make the oil so stable that it lasts longer
within this... M1 0W40 is known ironicaly as mobil's best 5w30 oil-- it brakes down after 3k miles or 5k km

and this is european perspective - how i live it

mobil 1 (0w40) as low quality oil means .. to me my experience
low quality means a oil that is defective in lubricating a undersquared engine... where the loss of power is evident, to me indicates optimal lubrication not present.

my experience is limited to seeing the reactions of a 90mm stroke engine to that oil... its very sensitive to the oil ... i read a lot in the net and looked at a few UAO's. So any change in the oil i easily noticed. Noise, output, level drop, color, start-up noises. All that changes noticeably when the oil changes.

Now.. You guys have V6 V8 etc... thats a difierent story. Much more forgiving. Mobil 1 can lubricate that type of engines a lot easier. Engines are very smooth inside. Thats why you can - after all - use much thiner oils nnW20 or nnW30. Longer roads you have too.

Here in average-joe workshops...(southern europe) only more recently, regarding "modern" engines people started to know the engines as requiring aplications of thin W30 oil...


about prices

example honda' s 10w40 OEM oil self at 45eur = 4L (castrol GTX series...professional series)

100% syntetics are very rare... only OEM oils perhaps

GC costs 100 euro... (4L) sell best at 80 €,. few can buy it lower.. its edge 0w30 and 5w30

any good "fully" syntetic (hidrocraked) costs 50 to 70 € (5w40 or 0W40) total cepsa BP

M1 = 45 € its the cheapst of the fully syntetics

semi-syntetics (10w40) cost average 30 € to 50 €

then minerals go from 19 to 30 € (10W40) (15W40) (20w50)

THE cheapest oils cost 3,5 €.
that cheap oil.. .can give us lots of easily burned and evaporated oil, but not that hard gunky sludged oil as the bigger V-engines are more prune to suffer from.

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I would run NO oil over 5K without a UOA to confirm wear numbers and TBN is within acceptable specs. Regardless of advertising/marketing hype.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sarge

WalMart SuperTech Synthetic returns better wear numbers than Royal Purple. Seriously.

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really where did you find this information at?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bluehawk2000

really where did you find this information at?

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:coffee:

your a genius but that doesnt help at all, the source of the information where I can find it you know, so I can read it. :Pow:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bluehawk2000

your a genius but that doesnt help at all, the source of the information where I can find it you know, so I can read it. :Pow:

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The first 44 pages of this, or the UOA's sticky.:date:

:mommy:thanks

Hey Sarge. how much oil consumption is normal for a new motor. i have gone 3k on my new setup and its about 3/4 of a quart. i have a catch can and the PCV mod. any ideas? Also this is the first 3k oil change on the motor. it only has 4k on it. Thanks

i have a question. And please bear with me, if its a dumb one i appologize. But would running a full syn 5-40w be to thick for me? I have a basically stock LS1. Just wondering if the Schaeffers supreme 9000 5-40w would be too much. If so should i just stick with the supreme 7000 10-30w? Is there no need to run the 5-30w?

http://sz0158.ev.mail.comcast.net/se...d=35320&part=2
I would run NO oil over 5K without a UOA to confirm wear numbers and TBN is within acceptable specs. Regardless of advertising/marketing hype.8,500M on Amsoil vs. 3,500M on Castrol Edge, Both 10/30.
The UOA tells the story.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lonewolf37

http://sz0158.ev.mail.comcast.net/se...d=35320&part=2
I would run NO oil over 5K without a UOA to confirm wear numbers and TBN is within acceptable specs. Regardless of advertising/marketing hype.
8,500M on Amsoil vs. 3,500M on Castrol Edge, Both 10/30.
The UOA tells the story.

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The link for the UOA does not work...

CompSyn

I screwed up the link and Sarge's quote as well! I will work on that tonight:suicide:

http://blackstone-labs.net/%28wudd2r...spx?cid=D86047

Hope this works!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lonewolf37

http://blackstone-labs.net/%28wudd2r...spx?cid=D86047

Hope this works!

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Still not working. Try one of these:

If you can take a screen shot of the report on your computer and upload that image to photobucket.com, you'll have a url that you can post here.

OR

Copy the values from your UOAs and enter them in the fields below:

Vehicle----------
Engine-----------
Trans------------
OIL--------------
Oil additive-----
Make-up oil----
Oil filter---------
Air filter---------
Miles on vehicle---
Time on vehicle---

Analysis by lab:

WEAR METALS (PPM) Amsoil ATM / Castrol Edge
iron-------------------
chromium-------------
nickel------------------
aluminum-------------
copper----------------
lead-------------------
tin---------------------
cadmium--------------
silver------------------
vanadium-------------

Contaminant Metals (PPM)
silicon------------------
sodium----------------
potassium-------------

Multi-Source Metals (PPM)
titanium-----------------
molybdenum-------------
antimony-----------------
manganese--------------
lithium-------------------
boron---------------------

Additive Metals (PPM)
magnesium----------
calcium-------------
barium-----------------
phosphorus--------
zinc-----------------

fuel-----------------
visc40---------------
viscosity @ 100C
water----------------
soot/solids----------
change---------------
oxida-----------------
nitr------------------
TBN------------------

CompSyn

i have just replaced the oil
3 litres of Edge 0W30 and piston slap reduced to barely noticeable sound in cold engine and unnoticeable @ warm engine

this is D16Z9.. 90mm stroke honda 1.6 engine ... the 125 hp s0hc engine ..

i replaced spark plugs and air filter.. and
hold and behold.. the new OEM made in uk honda air filter 17220-P1K-E00
comes with the paper filter element soaked in thin oil...

anyone ever found such a thing?
the brand new air filter comes completely soaked in very thin oil... we can see it shinning in the tips of our fingers when we touch the "paper filter"
another ***king unhandled exception... lol

i am stil investigating if anything of this is normal.

http://blackstone-labs.net/(wudd2ren...spx?cid=D86047