-27.4F sounds like that works. I had to google a converter for the centigrade to farenheit.:haha:
thanks for the help.:yourock:
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-27.4F sounds like that works. I had to google a converter for the centigrade to farenheit.:haha:
thanks for the help.:yourock:
hey Sarge!! so i am sticking with schaeffers series 7000 10w30. i found it for like $4.37 a quart over at skoolers in fort worth. i am looking to get their atf and gear lube. i was looking at the 209 or 209a with moly soluable for the diffs, i was gonna put it in all my diffs including my 4 wheeler and the wifes manual trans on her car(it calls for gl-5). and i assume that the atf is the 204?
so my question weeding out the bullshit is:
diff oil- 209 or 209a????
atf- 204???
just need a lil clarification thanks man
Based on some MSDS sheets M1 comes in at 30-40% PAO.
i actually am trying out that new castrol edge full syn. seems to run really smooth.
I have royal purple in the engine trans and ass end. love the stuff. its expensive but i think its worth it. i have a friend that picked up 2/10's in the 1320 just by switching to RP
:bs:
And I would look at the UOA's that have been done for RP. It is crap, except for the gear oil according to Sarge. He does constant testing of this stuff. Read through this thread, you will find VERY good info, some of it will surprise you (like the fact that Pennzoil Platinum outperforms Royal Purple by a long shot.)
i just use baby oil
well it was either the fact that i changed oil's or maybe its because of the stroker......... Naw its gotta be the oil. :lol:
I really did run RP for a long time, but after being shown the light i havent looked back since. after this UOA with the amsoil i am going to try some shaffers
I kinda figured that i was gonna get my life shat on by sayin that. your right it could have just just been him drivin better. I'm still pretty new at this but it seems like amsoil is pretty much the shit. am i right or wrong? maybe i will be shown the light now too
Amsoil is a great product for sure. After reading this thread i found that there are a few different oils that (depending on your budget) work great. I have never used it but from what i understand Penzoil Platinum is a great low (er) cost oil. Shaffers is another that is top notch. Also make sure you run a good filter (ie napa, or amsoil)
I've used Royal P, to kill the vines growing around my house. Good shit!:lmao:
I am trying Amsoil 10/30 for a direct comparison with Castrol Edge 10/30. My Dyson UOA is posted on this site. So far PP performs better than any other oil I have tried, and does so for less money. Amsoil is in for the next two fills. Truth will be posted.:true:
Actual data beats marketing bullshit everytime :)
That's thinking with your dipstick JIMMY!
I, too, had some experience with Royal Purple--long enough to see that it is crap. Chlorox would be better than Royal Purple.
Hey CompSyn, I bought some Amsoil from you last month so I could switch my LS1 from Amsoil 5w30 to SS0w30. I have noticed that my valvetrain is much noisier with the SS0w30, so noisy that it makes me believe the SS0w30 oil is too thin. Is the increased noise a bad sign for my engine, should I worry? I would appreciate some input on the subject because I am worrying about it. Thank you
Is the noise more present at cold engine start-up or does it do it when fully warm as well?
Have you noticed if your oil pressure has changed from when you were running the 5W-30?
Some valve-train noise at start-up is normal, but I can’t image why the switch would cause it to be noisier.
Are you positive the noise is coming from the valve train and not piston slap? Either way, I’ve only heard of 0W-30 SSO making LS1 engines quieter.
The 0W-30 is only a little less thick when cold but the same thickness when warm as the 5W-30. This is an interesting one. Let me know on the above…
CompSyn