Oh ya thats right, I knew that when I did it but I guess it's been awhile.
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Oh ya thats right, I knew that when I did it but I guess it's been awhile.
Hello
I soldered the resistor, da's goed ! I started my pontiac without problem !
Many thanks for your help, i'm really happy. One euro for the resistor....Great !
Best
my 01 ta has been doing this for a few months it finially completly stoped about an hour from the house. had to pay a rediculous $100 to get it towed home. tried cranking it this morning it fire right up after 10-15 tries but the security light stays on. pulled the lower panels so i could run to radioshack and pick up a resistor the car still cranks and runs with the harness unpluged what is up with this the security light is staying on/
update i have the 6040 key so finding resistor to match was impossible. had to use a 4990 a 5000 and a 5500 tied in series also something esle i did was cut the wire that goes to the ignition and made it basically a plug that you can put it and take if i know it will be sitting for a long time with no attention to help resist it being stolen. the security light is staying off now.
I used that plug and soldered mine across the wires on the column side of that plug after I cut them then just plugged it back in. Sounds like you did basically the same thing I did. I also had to solder 2 or 3 in a series. Been over a year now with no issues. Glad you got it fixed.
yea i was ready to push the car off a bridge when it broke, i was taking my girl to have surgery and the SOB broke down. Im probly gonna trade it in ona new sierra or tundra. im sick of paying 369 a month for a car that is leaving me stranded.
Got a 96 Z. Car starts and runs fine. Securtiy light is on and stays on while starting or running the car. Pulled the plug apart at the base of the steering column and tried to get a reading with the ohm meter with the key in the ign. and could not get any reading. Figured the ign. cyl. is the problem but the problem is the security light is on all the time and I don't want to have the car not start for me. Just bought the car so I don't know if one of the previous owner did a by-pass or anything else because of the light being on. And if they did wouldn't the security light be off? I read one persons reply about a intermittant problem that did not show up on a DMM. What do you guys think? Any help would be great.
Thanks
Dave
I've seen people have issues where the light would stay on but the car ran fine.....it will eventually not let the car start. You're on borrowed time. I would ohm out that key and go ahead and bypass it. Try all the other stuff first such as cleaning the key with an eraser and blowing out the cylinder with compressed air but that rarely works. Usually it's in the cylinder. Good luck and post back up and let us know how it goes. Every scenario and fix is good to have in the thread as it may help someone else.
I have pretty much decided to r&r the lock cyl. but just thought I would check here first. While the wiring was unplugged I was able to start the car. Any thoughts on that part of the equation. I forgot that I had done that while trying to check the ign. cyl..
Thanks
Dave
the only thing I can think of is comparing it to when mine went out..... my light would come on and not let the car start but if you waited 3-4minutes it would start. My only guess is the vats times out since the light is on constant and is letting it start with it unplugged. Now, is that correct? Doubt it but that's the best reason I can come up with.
Yes, while the wiring is unplugged the car started and ran. That's what has got me woundering what if anything someone else may have done.
Dave
Well I got the security light to go off on my 96 Z. Spent 1.00 on a five pack of 1.5K ohm resistors. Soldered them all together in series, cut the male plug of the wires going up the steering column, and it's plug and play baby. Went ahead and ordered the new lock cyl. and keys from http://www.carlocksandkeys.com to repair it correctly later.Thanks for the sticky on VATS. :rockon:
The 5 pack of 1.5k worked out to the 7500 ohm I needed.
glad you got it worked out.....the vats bypass is awfully cheap and easy to do. :D If one were inclined they could hide a switch on the car to disable the starter and fuel pump and that'd be better than vats.....as long as someone doesn't find the switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1st TA
what kind of resistor do i need my key tested out 3.71 ohms
so im guessin i have key #10?
Just go the radio shack and see what you have to put together to equal as close a poss. the set amount for a #10. I used the 5% and hooked 5 1.5k ohm resistors together to get the 7.5k ohms the #13 called for.
like 1st ta said, radio shack should have what you're looking for and you most likely will have to run 2 in a series (end to end) to get the correct resistance. Get as close to 3740 (3.74) as you can and if they have 5% resistors use those so your tolerance is tighter.Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbyd
thanks so i will need to get 2 resistors that are close to 3740 ohms?Quote:
Originally Posted by 0rion
it may be more than 2. I think it took me 3 to get mine. Depends on what they have.Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbyd
thanks I will check it out and see what they have and check it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by 0rion
so if I buy these resistors will it work? http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062327
i will try it with one and if not ill use 2 of them in parallel?