I just leave the carbon on the pistons...it adds to the compression ratio :) Plus after 10 hours of run time, the carbon will be back.
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I just leave the carbon on the pistons...it adds to the compression ratio :) Plus after 10 hours of run time, the carbon will be back.
I hope this means it's some good news....
Machine shop called - all but one intake valve passed the vacuum test. He took it apart, the valve was not bent or damage, said he honed the seal a little bit and put it back together. This time it passed. Asked him if they need a valve job and he said not as long as I wasn't going to upgrade the cam. Told him not with these heads, not going to spend much more on these because they are 98' stock heads. When the time comes for a cam I'll be using different heads. He said then these should work fine, also agreed I was making a smart move by getting LS7 lifters and a set of new push rods.
He also confirmed that all of the springs were still good and the block side of both heads were still level. He even said this surprised him because of the mileage (170,000).
Not bad way to spend $15.
That's good news. I'm not sure about "honing a seal" though -- that would open up the hole more it seems and cause a leak. :dunno:
I think I have the wrong term I think I should have used "Lapping the valve".
lapping the valve makes sense.
Ok, that's better.
Here is a couple of quick pics.
Drivers side.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...m/IMAG0776.jpg
Passenger side, X marks the intake valve that was lapped (#4 cylinder)
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...m/IMAG0777.jpg
He also level both heads (for free). He said he didn't take much off if hardly any at all.
It sometimes pays to deal with a shop multiple times. This makes the 3rd-4th time I've done business with him and I know what he did cost more then $15.
I now have him scouting for some L92, 243 or 5.3 heads for future projects.....
I also need to add a water temp sensor for the drivers head. It was forgotten and not removed so guess what broke.
Order replacement parts tonight, will call in am to confirm and beg them to ship asap....
Been following this from the beginning as a lurker. Nice to see some positive things happening.
Order is confirmed and will be shipped today...it's a long wait till Tuesday...
Ouch the wait is killer. My ls7 lifters come in Saturday and the chasers I sent you should there today. I swear I have gremlins in my garage because my gasket scraper is not where I left it.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
I still need to measure what pushrods I need also since I am using ls7 lifters and 243 heads.
this is more of a sounding board question...
I don't think much coolant fell into the engine, I had rags and a shop vac to get all I could see as soon as the heads were pulled. I know there is some just not to much. I've check the dip stick and haven't seen any signs of coolant contamination (e.g. chocolate milk look).
I plan on doing an oil change after I'm sure that the motor is fix and it's running right.
Currently my plan is to get dyno oil and a wix filter, run it for about 100 miles and then change again back to Mobil 1.
Any unknown issues with doing this?
I wouldn't see a problem with running mobile 1 right off or what you are planning on doing. I am not an expert but that is my opinion for what it is worth.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
If you think there is any possibility of contamination, that is a good idea. Otherwise, stick the good stuff in it and run it. Again, just make darn certain you get the coolant out of the head bolt holes. Also, those bolts are TTY so go get new ones or grab some ARP's.
This time I got Gm head bolts with it being so close to Christmas $$$ is tight. I had to scrape to get what I needed without hurting gifts.
When I do a H/C swap it will be ARP.
If anyone knows the torque specs for the heads and order, pls post it.
I hope FedEx id playing with me, last update says it will be delivered tomorrow.
You gotta drain the oil/coolant out BEFORE you run the engine otherwise you risk pumping coolant into the you're brand new lifters. Then you're screwed all over again. Lifters with coolant in them won't pump up and its difficult to get coolant out of the lifters.
When you pull the oil pan drain plug, the coolant will come out first, then the oil.
Thxs Cutlas, exactly what I needed to know.
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 87-61-27
Date: August, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject:
Section 6 - Engine Mechanical Revised Torque Specifications for Cylinder Head Bolts
Models:
1997-98 Chevrolet Corvette
1998 Chevrolet Camaro
1998 Pontiac Firebird
with 5.7L V8 Engine (VIN G - RPO LS1)
This bulletin revises the torque specifications for the fastener tightening table and cylinder head installation procedures in Section 6 of the Service Manual, due to a bolt material change.
Procedure
http://lstwo.com/images/58602588278690672152.gif
1. Cylinder head bolts (first pass all M11 bolts (1-10) in sequence) 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
2. Cylinder head bolts (second pass all M11 bolts (1-10) in sequence) 90 degrees.
3. Cylinder head bolts (final pass all M11 bolts (1-8) in sequence - excluding the medium length bolts (9 and 10) at the front and rear of each cylinder head) 90 degrees.
4. Cylinder head bolts (final pass M11 medium length bolts (9 and 10) at the front and rear of each cylinder head in sequence) 50 degrees.
5. Cylinder head bolts (M8 inner bolts (11-15) in sequence) 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
Wife called, parts have arrived.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by excrider121File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 87-61-27
Date: August, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject:
Section 6 - Engine Mechanical Revised Torque Specifications for Cylinder Head Bolts
Models:
1997-98 Chevrolet Corvette
1998 Chevrolet Camaro
1998 Pontiac Firebird
with 5.7L V8 Engine (VIN G - RPO LS1)
This bulletin revises the torque specifications for the fastener tightening table and cylinder head installation procedures in Section 6 of the Service Manual, due to a bolt material change.
Procedure
1. Cylinder head bolts (first pass all M11 bolts (1-10) in sequence) 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
2. Cylinder head bolts (second pass all M11 bolts (1-10) in sequence) 90 degrees.
3. Cylinder head bolts (final pass all M11 bolts (1-8) in sequence - excluding the medium length bolts (9 and 10) at the front and rear of each cylinder head) 90 degrees.
4. Cylinder head bolts (final pass M11 medium length bolts (9 and 10) at the front and rear of each cylinder head in sequence) 50 degrees.
5. Cylinder head bolts (M8 inner bolts (11-15) in sequence) 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
1) In this pic the top numbers (15, 13, 11, 12 14) are those the top of the cylinder?
2) I seem to miss-placed my notes - there were 2 short bolts on the inside row, are these 10 & 9 form the pic above?
