Good Boy

what is the best tranny oil to use its time for a change

everyone around here says royal purple but i have read enough on their engine oil not to use it, so i would think that their tranny oil has to be the same or worse

For a M6?
Torco is one of my favorites.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sarge

Flush it. Just dropping the pan and changing 40-50% of ithe fluid has caused problems

---

Even at 175,000 and to my knowledge its never been done? It is working great at the moment.

Couple of things.
I would definitely flush that trannie. Replace the screen and gasket.
Back in the day...Us Hurst boys and the North Richland Hills boys would drag race on Trinity Blvd. behind Bell Helicopter.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TA_Levi

I change the oil, trans, and rear axle oils. But the rest of that stuff is just BS or I'll just take a reactivce approach and fix it when it causes problems.

---

Good thing we have an internet expert here to set us straight on that BS stuff! Now we won't have to waste our good money on BS. Thanks! Just think of how much money we all can save by avoiding the rest of that stuff!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sarge

Clicking clanging? As in valves? Get that Lucas crap out of there. Absolutely terrible oil. Look at the VOA's of the crap. Should be illegal to sell crap like that. Pure marketing.
I digress.

Go get yourself some cheap conventional Mobil Clean 5000 and 1 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. Change the oil and filter with 1 quart of MMO repolacing one quart of motor oil. Run it 1000 miles.

Let me know......

---

Lucas does have some good fuel additive.

Yes it works well as a UCL. But so does MMO or TCW3 for a fraction of the cost.
But I do like their lil bottles :)

+1 16 oz bottle of marine TCW3 at wal-mart is $2.09.for me 16 oz equals 5 tankfuls!
Posted via Mobile Device

I just buy tcw3 by the gallon at walmart.
Like Sarge said the little lucas bottles work great.
Easy to refill and keep in the trunk.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sarge

Yes it works well as a UCL. But so does MMO or TCW3 for a fraction of the cost.
But I do like their lil bottles :)

---

Yes, I love those little bottles. But at $6.99 for a little bottle of Lucas (local price here in FL), I certainly don't buy it at that size. I get a case of 4 gallon jugs and then fill the 20 or so little bottles that I saved from several years back. This way, it cost me about $0.75 per bottle. I then keep refilling those little bottles from the gallon jugs. I can't believe that some people pay $6.99 for a little bottle of UCL. No way I would use it at that price.

I also like/use MMO and always have plenty of synthetic TCW3 around for the outboard motors in a few of my boats. Actually, I often mix an ounce or 2 of the synthetic TCW3 in each little bottle with the Lucas.

As far as the other Lucas stuff... I've tried 'em but don't currently use them.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sarge

For a M6?
Torco is one of my favorites.

---

yea for an M6, but where can i find this at oreilly's or would i have to order it online

I buy it on line.

Well. i flushed brake fluid,clutch fluid, changed oil. Can you eplain the coolant flush to me? I'm gonna change hoses and thermostat at same time. I can pull the radiator to reverse flush it. I'm sure it needs it. Badly.

Here's how I did mine: Dropped the coolant out of the radiator and then removed the thermostat housing. Pried out the stock thermostat and re-installed the empty housing -- this allows for full flow without having to warm the engine all the way up. Then dropped the block drains, large brass plug in the driver's side is located above the alternator (17 mm allen head) and the passenger side is a smaller brass plug that is above the starter (probably metric, but a 5/16" allen head fit nice and tight).

Once all the coolant was drained, I filled the system with clean water and ran the engine for a few minutes before allowing it to cool and draining it completely. Make sure your heater is set on "hot" so you have flow through the heater core. Did this a couple of times until the water that came out ran clear. Note that the service manual recommends AGAINST using any kind of chemical flush. After the last drain, I then installed a new thermostat and hoses and a 50/50 mixture of coolant and distilled water. Careful on initial startup that the thermostat does not air lock and you end up overheating.

I let scrubs at car shops mess with brakes. Otherwise yes to everything. Need to buy a bleeder

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sarge

Flush it. Just dropping the pan and changing 40-50% of ithe fluid has caused problems

---

Why is this?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sarge

Yes it works well as a UCL. But so does MMO or TCW3 for a fraction of the cost.
But I do like their lil bottles :)

---

Keep forgetting to use the lucas in the big bottle, gonna use it for tcw3
What kind of results have you had with your truck on it?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wheeliE-maxx

I let scrubs at car shops mess with brakes. Otherwise yes to everything. Need to buy a bleeder

---

Brakes are easy to do. Just take your time and you can save a lot of money on maintenance costs. And you don't have to let anyone touch your car either.

I have been leary to get to deep into the brakes with ABS. From what I have read you need a machine to recalibrate the ABS. How true is that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by FMBL

I have been leary to get to deep into the brakes with ABS. From what I have read you need a machine to recalibrate the ABS. How true is that.

---

I took the brake line off of our ABS block to install the line lock and had no issues. Simply bled out the air with a Mity Vac. I understand that in some cases you need a Tech II to cycle the ABS system, but not that I have heard of in the last 2 years on here.