Wondered what ever happened to your project -- glad to hear you have her about sorted out now. Looking forward to more pics and vids. :)
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Wondered what ever happened to your project -- glad to hear you have her about sorted out now. Looking forward to more pics and vids. :)
Yeah, I haven't had to do much to it for a few months now. I've been driving back and forth to work every so often. The problem I've been having lately is it seems like one O2 is working intermittently. I swapped the one in question (Drivers front) to the passenger rear spot, and the problem persists. I'm thinking I have a leak in the header, or some rubbed wires somewhere. I'll see what they find on the dyno, and worry about it then. They're gonna shoot a video for me, so you know it will be posted up here!
The car is sitting at the shop right now, getting some tweaks done before hitting the bench tomorrow.
The exhaust had rattled itself out of alignment in a couple of places and this cause most of my recent drivablility issue. When the exhaust is hot, it contacts the floor on acceleration. The knock sensors were reading this as knock of course, and sending the timing back a full 10 degrees.
The movement also caused some leaks that were throwing off my O2's. I also had a wire loom bracket break loose and that dropped my front pass. O2 and oil level sensor wires onto the headers. Both wires are shot now, and are being replaced.
The car should be hitting the dyno tomorrow, and I'll finally see some numbers!
Very interesting thread. I'm glad I stumbled onto it. It sounds like you are very capable with the mechanical systems, but got bit by a few wiring issues. You really did a great job.
Well, the dyno is done. I'm a bit dissapointed. It was run on a Mustang dyno, and put down 406rwhp 345 tq. Both seem low, but especially the torque. I'm still running the stock throttle body, so I'm sure i'm holding the engine back a little bit there. Also, swapping the LS6 intake for a FAST would probably bump it a bit as well. I have a print out that they emailed me, but it's kind of small. I'll post the full size later.
Ed over at Mongillo's is doing some final street tuning with the car and I can probably pick it up tomorrow. It should still drive a whole new car, so still pumped.
I've always been told that Mustang dynos always report lower #'s when compared to Dynojet. Something in their formulas and software.
I've been told it's around a 20% difference. If true that would put you around 487 hp, 414tq. That may be a little high but again it depends on what the difference is between the 2 dynos.
I'd look for a Dynojet and see.
Yeah, the Ed at Mongillo said I should be creeping close to 500 at the crank. A Fast 90/90 would seal the deal for me, but that's on the list after a new clutch and master. Ed's also having the same issue I had with the O2's One side is readin gnot ready, even though they're reading on the scanner. Be a few more days before it see it. Good thing is, It'll be like a new car:burnout:
A 1/4 mile time and MPH will tell us all we need to know about how much power you are making. Dynos are tuning devices.
Yeah, I understand that. The dyno still gives you an idea if the mods are working for you, and if the tuning is headed in the right direction, by the numbers. I just wish dynos were far enough along where they would be a bit more accurate. Ed said he got the car pretty well squared away on the street, and was only able to pick up about 10 horse on the bench.
On a side note, I love the internet! I went through some threads on the other forums yesterday to see what the conversion % would be. Acording to the "info" I found, my car is pushing between 460 and 530 at the crank...lol :tmi:
Every DYNO is different. Mustang DYNO's will read lower because they account for parasitic drag. Whatever numbers you're seeing on a Mustang DYNO will basically be what the car is actually putting down on the street.
With that said, don't get too down or hyped up even about the numbers. The important thing is the car is running well and that you're enjoying it, which it sounds like both are there for you.
Congrats again!
Well, not enjoying it yet. Car is still at the shop as they trouble shoot a funky O2. I had the problem as I did some initial tuning. The O2 reads as "not ready". However, you can watch it cycle with HP's scanner. It reads not ready on the Passenger front, and if you swap O2's, it still reads Passenger front. Very odd. Any thoughts?
Is it possible that the plug-in for the wiring harness is gunk'd up or damaged?
The shop through in a new sensor, so the plug is good. I'm wondering if something is pinched farther up in the harness. I'm not sure of the scematic, but I imagine the wire(s) that send data are seperate from the wire(s) for heating?
nice job Mr Kid!
I would assume so also, but :dunno:Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKid
Everything's been straightened out with the car. I added the Racetronix full harness and that solved the problem. Thanks for all the support I received in this thread. You guys really know your stuff. I'm on to my next project, a '68 Camaro RS. The WS6 is now for sale to fund the project, and get my garage back!
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f38/2000-w...ed-58k-164935/
How did the fuel harness fix the O2 problem?
They were two seperate issues. The O2 problem was with the tune. The tuner had the wrong sensor disabled. I set them to report, and passed emissions with no issues.
The fuel harness was replaced because I thought the connectors were bad through the rear firewall. When I pulled the connectors, I found one pin that was almost flat inside the plug. I bent it back out with a pick, and haven't had a problem since. I added the Racetronix harness anyways. It's a really nice kit, and went in in less than 2 hours.