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Hey Compsyn!
When I finish my Castrol Edge testing I want to follow on with Amsoil. My testing is with Edge 10/30. What should I use to provide the best comparison? I figure to run two fills, one for 5,000M, and another for 6,500M. The second fill gets a Dyson Analysis.
How many miles can you go on one oil change? It seems like alot of guys are going past the normal factory recommended 3k. thanks
Only sure way to tell is a trending exercise with UOA's. Rule of thumb is if you drive 70% highway miles and 30% of your miles are accumulated in town you can go 5K on most SM rated conventionals and 7500 miles on synthetics. Of course engine modifications/geographical considerations (up and down mountains/across the desert/very cold start ups etc.) will affect the OCI also. UOA's are cheap and cut the guessing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Crash
Picked up some mobil 5000 last night sarge :) Gonna give er a try. Should of gotten the penzoil...next time i will! Says it cleans out the gunk too!
Thanks Compsyn!
I have another barrage of questions for you. I will try the Amsoil Signature Series 0W30 in the Camaro but is it still recommended if I only drive the car in the summer in Montreal Canada?
Thank you
Yep! The Used Oil Analysis (UOA) takes the guessing out of the equation. Click HEREQuote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Crash
for more information on UOAs. In fact some have found with UOAs, their oil and application, they are capable of running 20,000-mile plus oil change intervals. See example of a 20,000-mile oil change interval UOA report by clicking HERE. That sure beats draining out the oil every 3,000-miles/3-months just because… well just because that’s what the oil “expert” behind the service counter tells you to do.
Just keep in mind there are a lot of factors that go into how long motor oil can last as Sarge pointed out. For example: Engine modified or stock? City stop-and-go driving? Highway driving? Seasonal temps? The design of the engine? The quality of the oil filter and air filters? The quality of the motor oil itself? All these are a small list of what affects how long a motor oil can be ran. But again, the UOA report cuts through the fog and lets you know how long you can run your motor oil based on your driving habits and your specific engine build.
For fun, below is an equation that helps paint a theoretical picture of how different grade motor oils and engine design factor into how long a motor oil might last in your application. Please note that this equation is just a calculated value and not meant to take the place of a UOA.
Projected Oil Change Interval(OCI) = (C*)(mpg)(sump-qts)(Cubic Inches/Hp)
C* of 50 = Average Petroleum oil
C* of 90 = Off the shelf, Group III "synthetic"
C* of 120 = High TBN, PAO/Ester synthetic (Amsoil, Mobil 1/EP, Best Euro Synthetics)
CompSyn
Quote:
Originally Posted by CompSyn
thanks for the info. How long after break-in should i wait to send my first sample. I have a brand new motor with 0 hours on it now. Thanks
For comparison sake, I’d run two like viscosities back-to-back. In your comparison, go with AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 10W-30 Motor Oil (ATM) .Quote:
Originally Posted by lonewolf37
Also, great idea running two fills before spending the money on the UOA. That will insure against cross contamination of two different motor oil additive packages and make for a more meaningful comparison.
CompSyn
Well without knowing your application/driving habits/engine build I’d probably ask your engine builder/machinist what they recommend for break-in on your particular engine. I could see it being something like running two short oil changes with a quality conventional motor oil to flush out the break-in contaminates, say like 1500-to-2000 miles. After that, switching to a top grade synthetic for two more short-ish 3000-mile oil change intervals before getting a baseline UOA. Again, a lot of that has to do with your specific application. Is it a street car? Street/Strip Car? Strip Car?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Crash
CompSyn
It's gunna be a DD but will see the track every so often. its a LQ9 408 with forged internals. They (TSP) required me to buy two oil changes of their break-in oil (joe gibbs) the first time i am going to run the engine through 3-4 heat cycles and then change the oil, the second oil change will be after 100 miles. after that i bought some Amsoil 100%syn 10W30 to run for the next 1000miles, then lastly some more Amsoil 10W30 for a 3k run. All of these will be with Napa oil filter changes. i was thinking after that 3k run i could send in my next batch for testing. What do you thinkQuote:
Originally Posted by CompSyn
Even in the summer I’d run the SSO 0W-30 to get the more advanced additive package. But because of these more advanced additives in the SSO you’ve probably noticed it costs more then the 5W-30 (ASL) and 10W-30(ATM). So if cost is of concern, the ASL or ATM will do a similarly great job during the summertime months.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35thAnniversaryPhil
As for the Vette, you shouldn’t need to use any cleaner additives or do any special “procedures” in switching from Mobil 1 to Amsoil. That’s of course considering the car was meticulously cared for by its previous owner. A poor maintenance record could necessitate then need for using a good engine cleanser. If you have reason to doubt a less than impeccable prior service history, Amsoil Engine Flush could be cheap insurance.
CompSyn
I think that looks like a nice safe break-in sequence. The UOA after the 3k run should work well for you. Also, Napa gold oil filters are a good filter, but the Amsoil EaO oil filters with Donaldson endurance nano-fiber filter media is top grade. You might consider the EaO filter after your break-in sequence.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Crash
Looks like that will be a fun motor for you.
CompSyn
Just because I have a LQ9 all forged internals you had to go get one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Crash
I ran Castrol GTX 10-30 for break in. Worked great. I am not impressed with Joe Gibbs Oil. At all. Break in was few hours on the motor. Change oil and filter (still on Castrol GTX) and ran that about 500 miles. Then I went straight to the synthetics. I tried em all with this Stroker motor and Schaeffers Series 7000 10-30 gives me the absolute best results. You should give it a try. Amsoil SSO is good stuff but the Shaeffers just hands all other oils their proverbial heads. I wouldnt have an UOA for at least the 5th or 6th OCI.
Does Donaldson make a filter for the LS1/2's?Quote:
Originally Posted by CompSyn
what can i say....... i want to be just like you when i grow up (which i prob never will :lol: ) I wouldnt have got that joe gibbs crap but they made me buy it at like $7 a quart so i figured i would run it insted of throwing it away. although maybe i should hmmmmmmm. I just bought a case of Amsoil 10W30, so ill run that first (after gibbs shit), and afterwards try the shaeffers. One thing i know for sure is that i will never go back to RP and their Crap! I've almost got the car ready to start and was wondering how much if any shavings or metal flakes there will/should or shouldnt be in the first oil change? I have never had a "new" car before so i have no clue. Thanks for the input.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
Oh your oil filter will weigh as much as Oprah's left butt check first oil change. All normal.
Amsoil is great stuff man....I don't want nor wish to mislead anybody here. I just have had unreal results with Shaeffers. I love that blue green neon shit coming out of that bottle man and the results.
Sarge,Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
The last time I looked Donaldson only made domestic application oil filters with the endurance nano-fiber media for small-block Ford and the old school 5.7L Chevy. All their other nano-fiber applications are for commercial and industrial applications. That is until Amsoil licensed the rights to manufacture the Donaldson endurance nano-fiber media in their EaO filter line. Some have also said that the steel filter housings are built by WIX which then utilize the Donaldson media.
The Amsoil EaO oil filter for LS1/LS2 engines is the EAO32-EA.
CompSyn
Sarge, just curious, have you compared UOAs of the older Amsoil TSO 0W-30, the new Amsoil SSO 0W-30, and the Schaeffers Series 7000 10W-30. I’d be curious to see what that pack of UOA’s would look like. Oh! and of course there is the new Amsoil Dominator 10W-30 Racing Oil. That would be cool to see as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
Schaeffers is one of the key competitors to Amsoil no doubts about it, they make a nice oil. But call me old school, I’m still just a little leery of soluble moly add packs. Back in the days of old moly add packs had tendencies to fall out of suspension in the motor oil and the clog up filters. That has since been perfected and appears to work very well for Schaeffers.
CompSyn
glad you told me other wise i might have had shit a brick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
Mebbe we need to head to head Shaeffers-Amsoil in our oil shootout. Lemme speak with the Shaeffers people. Shaeffers doesn't utilize "Moly Add Packs" as we knew them back in the day. The patent is really good reading!Quote:
Originally Posted by CompSyn
Look at Pennzoil/Delo and many others today and their success with Moly in today's SM rated oils. Most blenders have overcome the issues associated with Moly remaining in suspension years ago. Including Amsoil who themselves use Moly in their top of the line ASL 5-30 oil.
VOA of Amsoil ASL 5-30
260ppm of Boron
56ppm of Moly
3,000ppm of Ca
<700ppm of P
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