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Could've just been a loose connection at the motor, especially if you didn't hear the motor working.
I've swapped two sets of non-upgraded motors, they aren't that hateful.
I also have replacement headlight assembly hardware if you are ending up needing any.
Got Gracie back today, go figure that the car is a ton quieter without rust holes and a missing interior!!!!
Carpet is new, fresh, clean, and black again, looks really nice again. The replacement dash top was replaced; apparently, the aftermarket top had two of the four clips misaligned, so those two spots had to be siliconed down (razzinfrazin!)
I still need to put the drivers seat power control trim panel back on, and the front seats screw covers back on as well but that's not the end of the world.
What sucks is that being out in the cold did a crack in the vinyl dash pad, so new fixes to be had for that.
Finally found out what was wrong with the tune??.:
No tune will work well if the Lingenfelter 58x to 24x signal converter box goes bad.
Tune was still off and its been tweaked a smidge.
The shop just got a dyno, and used it to ?drive? the car to duplicate the problem instead of doing it on the street; he made some pulls and found out the engine is not putting out 415 rwhp, its putting out 472 rwhp, and 454 ftlbs torque. I think thats about 530 equivalent crank horsepower; not bad for a 3500 pound car.
Guys,
Not posted in forever but this needs a mention.
My WS6 was running a bit erratic with random misfires when "on it" and a bit of a stumbly idle.
Also it was not down far enough to pass our emissions test during the annual check. After
considerable research I replaced the current Bosch 13111 sensors with Denso 234-4025.
This was after reading many forum threads on this site and others. One guy swore up and down
that this part number was good for ALL FOUR sensor locations on the exhaust system.
I have the post cat O2's tuned out when Steve at "Tuned by Frost" did me a replacement ECU
so they were not in this equation and I just had to concern myself with the upstream or pre
cat O2 locations.
My system is..... TSP 1 7/8" long tubes into a Kooks ORY and then into a pair of those spun Hi flow cats
which then goes into a Magnaflow I pipe, Magnaflow muffler and then the usual twin tail pipes.
The key mention here is TSP long tubes as other brands may have the O2 sensor in a position nearer
to the front of the car? Anyhow, the passenger side just fitted, but only just and is pulled fairly taut.
the drivers side is a miserable situation and it was about 6 inches too short!!! I had no choice but to
get creative and use the plug and some wire length from the outgoing Bosch and join to a snipped Denso
noting very carefully of the order of the wires!! Bear in mind I am in the UK and HAD to order from the states,
(Summit, in this case) and a quick return, swap or anything at all like this was not an option so snipped and
joined they got! (properly..... not twisted or anything sketchy!! Not ideal but all seems good and the car
is running fine.
So...... The guy on the "other site", who says the Denso fit all four bungs is lying!! He even said you have
to bunch up the surplus length and zip tie it... RUBBISH!!!! :thumbdn: :mad::rl:
By all accounts, the Denso are good so I will report back on that.
Hope this helps somebody..... Trev
Well, good day to one and ALL.
I have been absent from the page for way to long.
Last I was here I made mention that I am having issue with starting the T/A.
I am ashamed to say that the T/A has been sitting covered up in the garage for 3 years.
WHY??? I had no idea why it was acting up OR how to solve the issue.
Many thanks to all here for suggestions but ...... I'm not stupid but I will admit to being a bit dumb around the edges.
We allowed it to remain in deep sleep but still well taken care of.
We heard so many stories about codes, key fob issues... more codes that would not allow the car to start because of Anti Thief issues etc..
Key chips being worn down and more. 1,000 reasons it would not start.
I recently got the bug to hear the T/A roar back to life and started calling shops in a 100 mile loop of home.
most had no suggestions and others repeated the key issues and anti theft code issue. I could not get anyone to make a house call to look things over.
Finally A sort of local Auto Key shop was discovered and he made that house call. He said to me "I will get your car running one way or the other".
He did indeed get the T/A ROAR back to life after about 30 - 45 mins of doing and checking things.
SO... praise the Lord and the key shop guy I have finally been able to log about 65 miles to the gauge. Talk about a rough ride.
Tires were new when the car was parked 3 years ago. I kept it clean inside and out, shined it often and covered it back up but could not get it to fire.
That first drive was like a tank from the flat spots on the tires from sitting. I spent 3 days taking it on 6 or 8 mile drives then stretched it out to 40 miles with some expressway time. It's a smooth ride again now but part of that mix was low tire pressure. (dumb old me didn't think to check that 1st) Tires are inspected and doing well. I am having seat operation issue now but that is something for another day / post. Moves forward but that's all. Sitting so low she can't drive it.
Thanks for taking your time to read my dribble. Y'all don't hate on me cause I'm stupid. I'm happy to hear this T/A come back to life again and SO IS MY WIFE.