You could buy an aftermarket one and probably have it installed for less, definitely if you install it yourself. No way would I pay anywhere close to 3k for a stock rebuild.
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You could buy an aftermarket one and probably have it installed for less, definitely if you install it yourself. No way would I pay anywhere close to 3k for a stock rebuild.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whamhammer
$2325 drop in ready...
https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/82-...-end-assembly/
The stock rear is a glass jaw no matter new or old bearings. I'm glad it has held up this far. Hell, if you were closer I would make you a deal on a 55k mile 3.42 from my 99 SS.
That is outrageous for a rebuilt rear. I don't give a shit if they put gold plating on it. The last rear I had rebuilt was done for less than $1k that included new gears, bearings, fluid....etc
Wish I could help you out but I don't know anyone up there.
:brick: finally tried the new harnesses for the WB and no joy. Went under the car to look at the sensor and found a spot that looks like a wire got cooked. :growl:
I tried cut and splice it back but no luck. Waiting on new sensor to come in :toetap:
When I put my set-up in, and also had them assemble it, it was $2,857.00, not sure if I would need a different drive shaft. I am sure shipping is extra. The shop wanted 8 hours to de-and-re the stock piece @$129.00/hr. It would be more than a 4k job.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
I found a transmission and differential shop that will rebuild my rear for $1,100.00 , $1,600 if it needs new axles, with a one year warranty. I’m going that route.
I appreciate the thoughts, I found a shop that will rebuild mine for $1,100.00 and $500 more is I need axles. I am going with this option.Quote:
Originally Posted by TLS_Addict
I agree that the 7.625 is a weakling rear, they should have made the car, from the factory with an 8.5”. I mostly drive highway miles, and don’t do hole-shots, and I have driven cars with 7.5-7.625” for the last 29 years, and Ive needed three new rears.
The first was when my Cutlass slid into a curb on a patch of ice and I elected to use a used rear end in, instead of putting a new axle because any other axle ratio was better than 2.14:1.
The second was a year after I paid someone to install a set of 3.23:1 Richmond gears in my 89 T/A that had 2.73’s, and the shop botched the job and the teethe devoured themselves; the 2.73 set probably would still be going. I won’t ever send my car to “a buddies cousin who buildS race cars” again.
This rear just wore out its bearings due to wear and tear, this guy is a trans and differential shop, that two different local shops referred me to, so I am feeling like this is relatively low risk.
A years time, I can put a chunk of change aside, and if the rear goes, I will probably have enough saved to do a HD rear, and if I go two years, engine and rear.
I have friends in PA, we still may be able to make a deal, as an insurance policy.
Finally. replaced the wide band sensor, all fixed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whamhammer
I have since moved to FL. lol If I have it in a few months maybe I will bring it up with me.
Took the WS6 to Campbell’s Transmission in Baltimore, tore the rear down, only needed bearings and incidentals; ring and pinion, Zexel Torsen LSD unit, and axles were all fine. Cost less than a grand, and the back end is quiet, exhaust when I hit the loud pedal.Quote:
Originally Posted by TLS_Addict
Well worth it!
Glad to hear.
I had to do some adjustments on my clutch mc. Seems it decided to adjust itself out. Now if the rain will stop long enough for me to take it for a test drive....
Send us some rain, we could certainly use some more up our way. Have to get the T/A over for inspection before month's end, so need a little bit of sunshine for that though.
Well test drive is now turning into replace the output seal on the transmission. :brick:
Never had this happen before, first of all I have an automatic and I use the E brake when I park it in my garage. When I went to start it up it wouldn't even crank I tryed the spare key thinking it might be the computer chip they put on the key it but it wasn't, I then released the E brake and then it started up.
Any thoughts what is going on?
:thinkin:
Had a body shop put these on but any body with the right tools can do this. But I really like the results, I'm sure glad I did this.
https://youtu.be/JzwdFvPLceM
That's really cool
More than likely the shifter wasn't fully seated in park.Quote:
Originally Posted by 024mula
It could of been that or the VATS.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
Fender flange bracket is pretty damn slick. I likey... but don't think we need them on our car.
I didn't need them for over tens years, then I got new tires and I had a stupid kid jack up my car ( thats the only thing the tire store lets new people do) and he put the jack at the wrong place.
:growl:
Finally got time to put the new radiator in yesterday, what a PITA that was. Also installed the Volant intake. Car is up and running again, but as per usual with Fbodies when you fix something, then something else happens. I made a few pulls to 100+, and on all but one I had a hard fuel cutoff at about 105...not sure what that's about.