I still have to rewire my gauges. Home projects have gone far, far longer then I thought. Once I get my garage back I have it and stuff to do on the Durango.
I'm looking at sending the Vert to the painters in July.
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I still have to rewire my gauges. Home projects have gone far, far longer then I thought. Once I get my garage back I have it and stuff to do on the Durango.
I'm looking at sending the Vert to the painters in July.
Amazing how projects have a tendency to just linger on and on and on..... That's why I would like a garage dedicated specifically to only my cars. You want to do crafts and sewing, do it in your own room or inside the house. NOT in my garage!!! Don't get me started!! :brick:
My garage currently has most of my house furniture in it. We've been doing tile for the house. I've got all but under the dish washer to do. Going to try it tonight now that the Tropical Storm has moved out of our area.
Hey Scott, I remember here recently that you replaced the front hubs on your daughters vert. Do you remember what the torque specs were? Thanks man. I found 63 ft/lbs, but someone on YouTube says they snapped a bolt before even getting to 63 ft/lbs. Wondering if you had a different number?
Got a new battery and tag for the ole girl and took her out for the first time in about 9 months. Ran her through a wash then went to a car meet.
Ordered my E2 catch can, the first real upgrade that Ive done in years!
Now if I can get my hands on some good seat foam, and put on all new shocks....
Just errands, but I drove about half a mile alternating positions with another 4th Gen Trans Am in a different color, probably older, like a 1997 WS6. I don't remember driving in formation like that with another similar Bird, and I don't think I've even seen one on the road in a few years. Here these cars have become rarities.
Put the plugs in, but don't think I attached all the plug wires correctly, and got P0300, multiple random misfires, so, I took the passenger side coil pack bank back off and re seated the plug wires to the coil packs. This time, I heard a distinct "click", then reinstalled the coil pack bank. Now I have to hear clicks on plugs 2,4,6 and 8. Got the car jacked up on the passenger side so I can get to plug #8 from underneath. Now I see why a garage charges $600 to do it...!!! Also got LED lights from SuperBrightLED's that I get to install, which I will enjoy doing...!
A couple weeks ago we had some fun with a gender reveal. Have a watch! The action starts at 3:30!
https://youtu.be/RsZHznTlBF8
Congratulations Darren!!
Ordered an all aluminum radiator and a Volant intake kit today.
Hey Terry, I ordered an all aluminum radiator for my red 2000 T/A. Talk about a lot of work. Wow. The company I bought it from said it was made to fit and be a direct replacement for the stock radiator. Come to find out, it was a different height, different width, different length and had to massage the existing radiator footprint to accept this new radiator. I was starry eyed about it being a two row core, which was going to cool better, and then the fact that it was all aluminum, would guarantee that it wouldn't spring a leak in one of the plastic ends. I know how you feel. Just get ready to put in some major time and effort to shoehorn it into an engine bay that is already "tight". When looking back... the plastic ended radiator that came from the factory did last 20 years before springing a leak, and made me wonder if it would have been a whole lot easier to just go back with stock plastic ends instead of the new improved version. I have not had any problems with the all aluminum radiator I purchased other than the drain petcock leaks regardless of how tight I turn it, but don't want to pull the radiator and send it back due to the intense crazy difficulty of pulling it back out and then having to reinstall it. Just saying....It has to be disconnected and radiator drained, the fans need to be disconnected and removed, then the A/C condenser is attached to the radiator as well, well, the other way around. My all aluminum radiator had the mounting brackets for the condenser off about an 1/8", which took major fabrication adjustments. If I had to do it all over again, I WOULD NOT! I have been working on cars since I was 15, and am now 62, so it's not like I'm an amateur. I have every tool you could imagine, but this was a huge hastle. Let me put it this way, pulling my transmission and installing clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel was easier than this radiator "upgrade".... Just saying...Get ready for a challenge!
Everything on this T/A up to now has been more difficult than it should be, so I won't be surprised if I have to put a bunch of work in there too :lol:
The radiator I bought is from Engineered Cooling Products. The reviews I saw across the internet didn't seem to mention a lot of fitment issues, so hopefully mine is a different radiator than yours, or they've fixed some of their problems... we shall see. I'm sure I'll be bitching about it on here when the time comes.
Yep, that's who I went with as well. ECP's item number is NO3A with a two row core with one inch tubes. Just to let you know, when you install it, don't be afraid to bend the aluminum mounting brackets to make it fit. Also get ready to install it, then take it back out, install it, take it back out, for fitment adjustments. Like you said, HOPEFULLY they have fixed some of their problems....!!
Well at least I won't be going in thinking this is an easy job :lol: Radiator came in today. Hopefully I'll be able to do something with it this weekend.
Mine is N03B, but I'm guessing the difference is manual/auto.
Yeah, mine is a manual. Best of luck bro.
After 18 years, my WS6’s dash top finally cracked all the way through.
Theres 400 bux more to be spent!!
You could always put a dash cover over it, and no one would know the difference! Save you about $375. Unless you're just bored and have nothing else to spend your money on!!! :chuckles: