Don't bother, doing that will make it more difficult to lift the intake and effect the torque of the intake bolts. You're just asking for a bigger mess to clean later. The LS6 intake sits very well in place of the LS1 :mel:
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Don't bother, doing that will make it more difficult to lift the intake and effect the torque of the intake bolts. You're just asking for a bigger mess to clean later. The LS6 intake sits very well in place of the LS1 :mel:
Well, I was thinking of torquing the intake first, then before installing the throttle body, run a bead only at the front of the intake, and then on the runners that go down to the head bolts where all the sludge and oil accumulate, but only at the top of the head where the intake contacts the head at the little opening near the bottom of the valve cover. Just thinking about it, not that I will be pulling the intake off any time soon again.!! If I needed to take the intake off again, all I would have to do is slice the RTV at the base of the front of the intake, and the little openings between the intake and the valve covers. I see what you are saying about being a hastle when taking it off, but if I did have to pull it off 100K from now, I would not have anything but clean underneath the intake, and there would not be ANY chance of sludge or grease and grime falling down into the intake ports....
Another possible issue will be coolant leak from the cross over tubes. If it leaks under there or if you do happen to still have moisture accumulate it will not have anywhere to go. Could be an issue. :dunno:
Those are good things to think about! Thanks man! If any moisture or leaks did take place, they could still run out the back.... will take all of these things into consideration at reassembly. Thanks again!
Supposedly Harley's are getting pulled over too but I have not heard of a single one yet! Moving though would not be an option for the next 10 years since I have joint custody of my son and ex would never leave the area because of family. But the thought has crossed my mind to transfer to our Illinois facility
So I picked up a spare dash shell. Mine is cracking, it is 21 yrs old...
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4809/...918725b5_k.jpg
So after looking at it I've decided it's a little past my skill set to try so I started looking for an upholstery shop that could do it. :lol: Damn didn't think it would be that hard.....I checked 10 shops in my area, finally found one that will do it. Ain't cheap but still better then what it would look like if I tried it. So we'll see how it goes, going to cost me $300.
Wife called and said there is fluid leaking on her back passenger wheel, and it stinks... axle seal/bearings going bad?
That would be my bet.
Not much showing up in some of the big name catalogs yet for our cars. Check Hawks Motorsports. They sell on eBay a lot but if you go direct to their web site the prices seem to be a bit better. Work through their menu to the 4th gen firebirds and check seatbelt accessories and you will find a number of sets in different colors. I've bought from them a number of times and never had a problem.
Between gun crackdowns, car crackdowns, and lord knows what else, arent there enough armed, hot rod owning, alpha males that can bring enough hell on the weakling vegans to turn things round?
You cant tell me that the whackadoos making the laws there havent pissed off the vast majority of the population yet.
awesome. bought from Hawks and let them know I heard about them from our site. Nice website thwy have... clear, organized, easy, good clear photos of different part choices.
1 step forward, 2 steps back as always...
Got some headway done on the top. I had to order a new headliner, something you would think is easy but is a huge PITA because the way it's listed. RockAuto had it but that took some time confirming it was the item I needed. The headliner is IMHO misnamed because it is a vital part of the top. It is basically the foundation that the rest is built off of. It places the rib that holds the window in the correct place.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7848/...6039b792_k.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7804/...2841aa66_k.jpg
My daughter working on what she hopes is her future car.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7800/...442869aa_k.jpg
Now the 2 steps back. I found out the guide rails that position one of the ribs out of the way of the rear seat belts as it drops, one has broken and the other is missing. I spent all weekend looking for these and awaiting a reply from Hawks3rdGen on if they have them in stock. GM doesn't make them anymore, surprise, surprise.
Also, not my garage (though I wish), car is at my cousins house, more room and he has way, way, way more tools then me from when he was a GM Tech. Oddly he's never had to replace a Vert top....
New seatbelt guides with slots (for the Convertible, but figured easier to use as not have to unbolt seatbelt!), are great and I'm impressed by site I bought from. Funny, though, once I had the replacement I gave a shot at just superglueing and gorillatapeing the original one broken at screwholes but still good around seatbelt. It held !!!! Now i have spares for inevitable later broken guides, or for a new owner to install in 2040! :-) One more: I realized I can't let wife drive car as driver seat motor is not working for going rearward, and thus if she moves it forward, we can't get it back to full rear for me (I've never cared as I'm 6'3" and always drive most cars fully back!) So, how does one get a non-working motor seat back to full rear? And, is there a good replacement motor as I SHOULD fix it. Seat works every other direction (up/down/tilt) but I recall the seller (also a TALL dude) told me not to move it fwd as won't go back. Thanks as always, Folks. I appreciate this site so much for so many helpful fixes.