What do you think of this????
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/
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What do you think of this????
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/
LOL....we really took a hard look at this oil as it is used by many in NASCAR......so here is our "take" on it....no detergents at all....very high in zinc (catalytic converter exit strategy:))....tons of anti wear add packs ( lots of moly)...did I tell you it has zero detergents nor suspension agents.....It is very thin as it totally depends on AW agents and not viscosity ( see HT/HS)....here is the VOA...
ron 5
Alum 1
Cal 2385
Mag 205
Z 1368
Phos 1279
Sil 4
NA 8
B 8
Tan 1.48
TBN 8.5
as you can see nothing to write home about........so bottom line is ....this oil is blended for a race car who is gonna dump it after a race. Very thin and no detergents do not make this oil a oil for a street/muscle car......nor running it more than 500 miles....for sure.....
If you need all the zinc (flat tappet) look at Shaeffers Series 9000 or Valvoline Racing Oils....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
Thanks Sarge. This is the oil TSP told me i need to run for the first 500 miles on their engine. after that i am prob just gunna switch to amsoil. Just wondering
Yep, and there's always AMSOIL Dominator® Synthetic Racing Oil...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
Z 1676
Phos 1509
CompSyn
2,000 more miles, and we will see my first results for Castrol Edge. Should I get a TBN?
alrite sarge been readin this thread and i wanted to tell you that i to live in south texas town called harlingen maybe you heard of it bout 45 mins from south padre island,
anyway i been using QuakerState Q horsepower 5w-30 with a k&n filter. is this oil any good. i live in the 100+ degrees weather as you do , i am seriously considering changing to amsoil , cause i wan the best for my car, the car is basically stock for now, i use it occaionally , change the oil every 3k miles, rarely driven hard othr than your occasional red light romp.
do i change to 0w-30 also because of the weather and stuff. i want the best protection and best quallity for my car. thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Toro Loco
https://www.amsoil.com/performancete...tility_300.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Amsoil, Inc.
Click HERE for larger image
Testing was conducted in November 2008 in accordance with ASTM testing standards using AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 10W-30 Motor Oil (ATM) . You could expect the same results with 100% Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil (ASL), the close cousin to 10W-30(ATM).
CompSyn
werd, i absolutely love amsoil, used lots of their stuff. havent tried the SSO yet just cuz PP is cheaper. its by far the best of the best
wow looks the oil i been using really aint that great, guess i am gonna go ahead and change to amsoil 10W=30Quote:
Originally Posted by CompSyn
Click HERE for larger image
Testing was conducted in November 2008 in accordance with ASTM testing standards using AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 10W-30 Motor Oil (ATM) . You could expect the same results with 100% Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil (ASL), the close cousin to 10W-30(ATM).
CompSyn
Are you running a 5K OCI? If so I wouldn't waste the ten bucks myself.....Quote:
Originally Posted by lonewolf37
so what should i use here in FL weather
80000 miles on stock LS1
mobil one 10w30 extended performance / 10w40 high milage / 15w50 extended performance
same price
Given your oil grade choices, a stock LS1 regardless of weather conditions, go 10W-30...Quote:
Originally Posted by b005td
CompSyn
what weight should i run? i am waiting on a TSP 408, 248/254 .612/.622 113LSA, Patroit stage 2 heads, FAST 92/92....... Thanks
edit:oh i almost forgot i live in Sacramento, CA warm most of the year.
i always run synthetic 5 30 but my question is should i be running thicker because like most ls1s i get a little lifter tick when the car is cold by the time i put her in gear she is all warmed up and the the ticking stops but if i ran thicker would it be better on the valve train ? its 60_70 degrees here at the begin of spring sorry look like a good place for this question
It’s the opposite of what you’re thinking. If your lifter tick at start-up is motor oil related and it could be, it’s because your oil is too thick – even at 5W-30.Quote:
Originally Posted by maroca
Try 0W-30.
Check out THIS LS1.com post.
What is in this Sarge?????
Big dose of Phos/Zinc. If your using a quality oil it already has everything you need in it.
Auto RX it and report back. http://www.auto-rx.com/Quote:
Originally Posted by maroca
I like 10-30 because of the less VI. Unless your using Amsoil then the later does not apply.
I am going to change now, at 3,000M. Get a Blackstone analysis for a baseline (no TBN). Then refill with Edge, and start a 5,000M run for my Dyson Analysis. Results will be posted.
any input for me?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Crash
