GUYS thanks for the info. check engine light comes on then turns off after awhile. readout always sez o2 sensors. replaced them but problem this persists.
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GUYS thanks for the info. check engine light comes on then turns off after awhile. readout always sez o2 sensors. replaced them but problem this persists.
What's the code? Simtimes the codes are for more then one component.
Check your wiring. Since the wires are close to the exhaust they get brittle over time and can have cracks in the insulator. When that happens you can throw intermittent codes as the wire flexes.Quote:
Originally Posted by DADCRUISER
Also check to see if the exhaust has any cracks or leaks near the O2 bung. That will also trip the sensor up as well.
THANKS. right now car is not driveable. waiting for body shop to find a replacement door. will have codes checked when i get car back. been several weeks and haven't heard back from them yet. always a problem to find a body shop willing and able to work on my bird in this town. had cadillac dealer, recommended by insurance agent, repaint hood under warranty for cracks and bubbling. over six months they repainted hood 3 times. my constant bitching made the insurance tell them to replace the hood. they did,prepped the fiberglass wrong . got wavy hood!
Been cracking on with the sail panel and although the pictures are not very pretty,
they show where you need to get busy with the cutting and folding.
http://i993.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps867x2tht.jpg
http://i993.photobucket.com/albums/a...psel02cn2o.jpg
http://i993.photobucket.com/albums/a...psaw2r1egr.jpg
I used both plasma cutter and angle grinder with a cut off wheel... Oh.. and a big hammer
and chisel and a big pair of vise grips and a hacksaw and probably something else too!!
Key is to make sure the sawing of the wire does not start chewing at the fiberglass on the
turned down edges of the sail panel which is why all the bending and stuff is needed but you knew that!!??
I made a wire saw out of 1.6mm square section windshield removal wire and broom handle
pieces for the handles.
Watch this space. I will wrestle it onto it's back tomorrow on a great big lump of foam and go
for it.
:)
Please let me know if the pics are not showing?? I still stick them in photobucket and i believe if you don't
use that little add on for your browser they don't show???
The pictures worked fine for me, speedy.
I got started on my seat swap project. The factory vinyl buckets in my car are pretty comfortable for cruising, but anything harder than that and they just aren't supportive. I found some Hyundai Tiburon GT black leather all manual buckets on eBay. After a fiasco, I ended up getting them for $50 less than the originally agreed upon price, although I ended up waiting 3 extra weeks. Preliminary test fitting is looking promising. Originally I had thought I was going to need to re-use the factory slides, however it's looking as though the slides that are from the Hyundai seats are going to work even better. They're about 5" wider overall, but I think with a welder and some new steel I'll have little trouble building adapter brackets.
Hmmm....
Went at it for about half an hour with a bud holding the roof down
on the bench and really got nowhere fast!!!
The square wire tries to cut it like a knife and so removes little waste.
The fact it is trying to cut it like a knife really makes it hard work so
i have ordered a roll of the braided wire, which the guy selling it says
it is really aggressive and cuts like a saw... which is what i am after so
we are on hold until i get the new wire!!!
On a brighter note... the triangles came of with a heat gun and a pry with
a wide scraper but contrary to what i have read, you have to go at them
from the side whilst protecting the panel with a few strips of masking tape.
:hmm:
Changed oil in both cars. For once that's all I had to do with the T/A. I'm procrastinating on the steering rack, but both boys' birthdays are this month and Christmas is coming up, so car parts are on hold until probably January.
Hey Terry, what work does your steering rack need? Curious, as I just finished replacing the complete steering column in my silver 2000 WS6 M6. It was fun!
It's leaking from the input shaft and driver side boot. I have not the patience to repair the one on the car, and new ones aren't too expensive these days.Quote:
Originally Posted by herculesrider1
I don't want to touch the column lol, but may end up doing that before long. Tilt is jacked up, you can pull down on the steering wheel with it locked, and it will move quite a bit.
I did that as well, just replaced the whole thing. I tore down the old steering column after it was out and on the workbench with plenty of time to tear into it. I dug all the way down to the infamous "4 Bolts" usually responsible for the looseness, and they had been replaced with hex head bolts as opposed to the reverse torx head bolts from the factory. They were tight, but I took one out at a time, and put locktight on each one. So my spaghetti looseness was not due to those bolts being loose. My issue was that one of the pivot pins was totally gone, non-existent, and the other pivot pin was loose enough that I could pull it out without a special puller. I ordered oversized pivot pins from Unbalanced Engineering and that did the trick. After replacing the lock pin and lock pin spring that also were not even there, I also had to order the dimmer switch extension actuator that also was gone. After getting all that arranged in the proper order, I put it back together and also found the clockspring was missing the snap ring that holds it down. Then finding the end cap that covers the turn signal/wiper stalk was a challenge. Mine was used and abused by the previous owners. As long as yours is intact, you won't have to search the internet high and low to find parts that aren't produced any longer. I paid $235 including shipping for mine, but would have spent abundantly less had I simply dove into my existing column. $35 for two oversized pivot pins, $10.00 for the lock pin and lock pin spring together, $10.00 for the dimmer switch actuator, $20.00 for an end cap cover and $2.38 for an assortment of snap rings from AutoZone. So, $77.38 in parts, opposed to $235 for a complete replacement. Live and learn! I plan on selling the one I rebuilt and getting a lot of my money back! Not to discourage you, but you just have to search diligently online to find the parts, diagrams, and videos. The rebuilt one feels as good as new and will make someone a nice replacement. If you need anything, let me know, I'd be glad to help! Be Blessed!
One thing we're lucky for here in OK is the abundance of Camaro/Firebird specific salvage locations. There are two major ones within an hour driving distance from me. I've never had too much of an issue finding parts you can't get through normal parts stores...so far at least. I'll be picking your brain for sure once I get brave enough to tackle that job....or just bring it down to TX for some hands-on help :lol:
It's a whole lot easier than it looks. Having the right tools makes all the difference. A steering wheel puller and a spring compression tool, which normally come in the same tool box is a must. I got mine at Harbor Freight. Any information you need, don't hesitate to ask. I'll be glad to help! My dad lives in Tulsa. I lived there a hundred years ago. Nice, kicked back place to live~~!!
People who claim to remove the sail panel from the steel roof section in a couple of hours are either lying... on drugs....
..... or maybe a magician??!!
I have been sawing away with two types of windshield wire. Both the square stainless and also the
braided stainless. I have painful aches and have moved up from the bottom about two inches!!
Ok... I think i need the heat gun big time which i have not really bothered with and i am going to
try and turn a big bow saw into a wire saw rather than the two bits of broom handle!!
Ever wish you never started something?:uzi:
Hence the reason my new sail panel still sets in my basement. :D
Yeah, Jeff, but you were lucky enough to find a factory replacement sans adhesive before they went bye bye from dealer shelves. Speedy's got everything working against him on this, lack of NOS parts, and barely any to pull used parts from. I guess I'm glad my roof is entirely made of steel lol.
^^ Agree. Kind of funny - Trev is driving a T/A and I am driving a Jaguar. We should change sides of the pond.
Ha...
Jeff.......
Just so long as you pronounce it it " Jag-ewe-err" ( said rather quickly so it runs together!!!!)
and not Jag-warr! :hitfan: What sort of jag is it, Jeff, i never knew you had one???
And lucky you that you had a new sail panel off of the shelf.
I have made my windshield wire bowsaw and will have a go tomorrow.
WITH a heat gun on the go.
Here's the thread on my XE -- https://www.ls1.com/forums/f75/2018-...5t-awd-187557/ Laughing at the pronunciation lesson -- but that is how you say it.