Can you elaborate on the bolded? And no catch can...it's on my list if I can ever get through replacement parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
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Can you elaborate on the bolded? And no catch can...it's on my list if I can ever get through replacement parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
If you look inside your throttle body there will be a couple holes for the IAC. It allows a certain amount of metered air through for startup and idling when your throttle plate is cold. Generally with highly modded engines or even cammed cars, you have to either drill or enlarge the hole in the throttle plate to move a little more air. At the top of the inside of the throttle body you'll see a couple of passageways that will divert air through the IAC valve. Check to make sure those are not clogged or gummed with carbon as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Y2KArcticSS
Also check what your cranking voltage and amperage is at. Check your ground points to make sure they are all clean and contacting well to the chassis. Sometimes a hard start is as simple as a bad grounding cable.
Thanks for the suggestions Scott & Allen. Should have some time Saturday or Sunday to break into it again and see what I can do.
I may be diving into my 00 FB vert top this weekend. Oh what fun that's going to be :brick:
I also need to figure out why the coolant fans aren't coming on as well.
I pull the harness off the sensor they come on, attach it and they die. This is when the car is at running temp. I've used new relays so I know that's not them and even jumped the relays.
I've tracked down a '95 Camaro which is being parted out.
Guess which part I want? Yep... the roof!!
He wants just over $300 for the relevant part of the roof cut off.
The steel part that is. It'll be myself getting busy with the cheese
wire cutter and heat gun though, as I would not trust anybody else to do a decent job!!!! :chuckles:
Spose that is a big chunk of change for this roof section compared with
what i see you guys paying but it is what it is.
They are not growing on trees over here to be able to haggle!!
Looking forward to getting on with it though!!!
:)
Put new Bosch 13111 Oxygen Sensors in last night. Got a 3 ton floor jack for the bday which made it a whole lot easier. Installed the lock pin and lock pin spring in the steering column I'm rebuilding. Today, I got the oversized pivot pins for the tilt mechanism and will be installing them today. Love having a garage to work on this on this cold wet rainy day.
I have an '02 as well but mine's black. My roof ( sail panel ) was terrible and I also got the part from a '95 Camaro. The guy at the junk yard did the cutting with the ' cheese wire ' and only charged me $25. I felt like I stole it !! ...and I know you don't want to hear that ! You're right though, they are getting hard to find even over hereQuote:
Originally Posted by speedyWS6
Damn I think I may try pulling some of these in my area and start selling them. :hmm:
Suspension upgrades and sticky tires, I have, a completely bare interior is my problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by TransAmTerry
They say its for safety, I think the guys with $100k sports cars are too affraid to get a beat down by high mileage Canadian steel that ferries a kid everyday :true::true:
BOSCH SITE doesnt show that this is compatible with 1998 firebird. looking to replace mine. is the correct part #?Quote:
Originally Posted by herculesrider1
It's for the Corvette C5's.
It's prefer to use if you have Long tube headers.
Finally got to the Trans Am this weekend. Replaced the lid, bellow, and connecting hoses between. Removed and thoroughly cleaned a very, very clogged throttle body (catch can here I come). Put it all back together, and she started right up, and been starting and running like a champ since. Now I got my hopes up last time I thought I fixed it, and she went back to her old ways within a week. I'll reserve my FIXED conclusion until the end of this week.
Well....
As the title says....
http://i993.photobucket.com/albums/a...pserzgxzy1.jpg
I have used Bosch 13111's on my red 2000 Trans Am and my silver 2000 Trans Am. The silver one had the check engine soon light on which showed up as Oxygen Sensor improper switching. I changed out the O2 sensors with Bosch 13111's, and started her up, and immediately, the check engine light went off. They are the same O2 sensors but have an extra long pigtail so that you can connect to the existing wiring harness without having to splice. Believe me, they work and have the exact connector that matches up to your factory wiring harness. They work!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by DADCRUISER
^^ I think Bosch lists 13444 as the correct part number for our cars. We all upgrade to 13111 sensors which, if I recall correctly, are faster switching and were originally used in the Corvette. The harness is a bit longer on the 13111's but this works well with LT's.
^^They also work well with long tube headers. Just make sure the extra length is coiled up, so as not to hang down and catch on something you might run over or be close to anything that gets hot. Tie wraps are your best friend in this case! I tie wrap my O2 sensor wiring to the frame and away from the headers and away from the block, being careful to not put sharp bends in the wiring coming off of the sensors or the wiring harness connector. Basically plug and play. Helps to have a 3/8" breaker bar and a 7/8" offset O2 sensor socket that is made specifically for O2 sensors. It has a slit in the socket to allow the wiring to pass through. You could cut the old O2 wiring, but then you would not be able to put the socket on the new O2 sensor to tighten it back down. This O2 sensor socket is made so that you don't have to cut and splice the wiring on your new O2 sensor. Worth buying the socket. I bought mine at Harbor Freight, item # 97177 for $6.99. Can't go wrong with the right tool...!
I just use an adjustable wrench and some anti-seize on the threads to swap mine. I also don't gorilla tighten it too. Firmly snug is all that's needed.
What's cool, is the Bosch 13111's come with anti-seize already on the threads, at least they have recently. I cranked down on mine so that the heat, cool, heat, cool cycle wouldn't loosen them up. Don't torque 'em, but tighten them pretty darn good!! I was glad I had a breaker bar, because even with the breaker bar, I had to put some "umphh" behind it. I doubt I would have gotten it loose with an adjustable wrench! Either way, as long as they stay, we're good!!
Any time I've done o2's I just used an open ended wrench, never had a problem.