So,, what's your plan for the rear ?? Just suspension pieces or whole new rear ?? I'd love to replace my stock one with something better/stronger/lighter but that is $$$$Quote:
Originally Posted by DADCRUISER
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So,, what's your plan for the rear ?? Just suspension pieces or whole new rear ?? I'd love to replace my stock one with something better/stronger/lighter but that is $$$$Quote:
Originally Posted by DADCRUISER
Installed the battery and woke the car up from its winter slumber. Maybe this will be the year it actually gets new tires.
UMI PANHARD,lower control arms,sway bar,subframe connector. as this is my daily driver i'm not sure what shocks i want. current shocks, i think monroe, have served there purpose. I've already purchased new bolts,stops. anything else i'll let my mechanic tell me.Quote:
Originally Posted by TransAmTerry
Started wrapping my headers almost done with one.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...14f03cac60.jpg
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So I was given bad info it's not a 97 Vert but a 00 Vert. This woman tried to kill this car. Never seen one this bad.
Started the coolant flush process today. OMG what a task. I pulled the T=stat and running without one till it's cleared out.
This is the 1st 4 fill, run a few mins and drain, repeat
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...13f0cf98_k.jpg
This is 5-7 fill/run/drain/repeat
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1742/...2029d121_k.jpg
This is on number 8
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...648eba29_k.jpg
This is after running coolant flush and cleaner for 45 mins
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...1c2bc631_k.jpg
Good news is no signs of blown head gasket.
Going to pick up another bottle and flush it again
OOOOH! Chocolate Milk!
Talked to insurance about the adjuster coming to work the claim from the suicidal deer. Quote is 5500 so I am really hoping they dont total it.
Believe it or not it's not, it's just straight up dirt and what happens when you mix green and orange coolant. The oil, transmission and power steering fluids are all clean.Quote:
Originally Posted by Redphoenix1998
How bad is it?Quote:
Originally Posted by hardtrailz
Bumper cover, fender split in half, inner fender and support, broke off headlight motor and crunched the lid and housing of it. The hood is busted on the inside, but they say its fixable.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
Still just thrilled that it was not .5 second later and the deer landed in my window since it happened on interstate with me going 50 in a construction zone. It jumped the concrete barrier on driver side and flew right across to land on the passenger corner.
It should be fixable. Plenty of donor part cars out there.
We had a member a long while back that got hit in the rear it was crushed. He got a Firebird and transferred all of the drive train, cut out the t tops, and front clip and convert it over to a Trans Am.
Just remember that if they total it, try to buy it back for $500. The drive train is worth way much more.
Oh I know. My quote is substantial due to getting it through my buddy's Chevy dealership. They know I will provide some parts and such. Part of me figures total is better if a cheap buy back cause I wont ever sell it and I may get more from insurance and still fix it back to good. I got a finger on everything but the front bumper already. I may just buy the GM one for $720 cause even used they dont save a ton and with the way the hood fits into it, it may be better overall.
New alternator arrives today, I went way overboard and got a 175 amp Tuff Stuff. That will be installed this weekend. The next problem with the car has already revealed itself...power steering leak out of the driver side boot of the rack and pinion. I've never replaced seals or full racks before, so any pointers would be great as far as parts, methods, pretty much anything you got. Manual rack is out of the question, she will hate that lol.
Tick Master Cylinder is in transit. I'm going to get this car down the strip if I have to push it.
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Changing out the rack isn't too difficult if it comes with the inner tie rods already installed. Hard part is trying to line up the position of steering wheel rod to match the new rack. I can't remember what I did to get it close, sorry. But regarding the outer tie rod ends once you break free the lock nut you count how many complete rotations it takes to come off. That's how many turns you need to install them back on. This will let you get close enough to drive it for alignment. Once you get it back down on the ground look at the tires and make sure they are close, you don't want one sitting 30* out while the other is straight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Y2KArcticSS
If you have to install the inner tie rods on the new rack you will need a tool. O'Reilley's rents them for $70-80.
As far as the diff/axle goes, you will find stronger, and you’ll find better but I doubt you will find stronger and/or better AND lighter, at least not something that is reasonably able to install in our cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by TransAmTerry
Better to shave the weight everywhere else, especially in the front.
Just crossed the 181,000 mile mark, with an Italian tune-up today. :
It was flawless.
How many Camry owners could brag that?
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f3...psfjhomcl8.jpg
Currently Lieutenant Dan ain't got no legs.
Getting ready for the gear swap but going to use PAJeff's sandblaster and get this axle lookin' pretty before I tear it down. Don't want to risk any ruined seals after the dust settles.
Power Steering Pump: "That's a pretty alternator...it'd be a shame if someone sh!t on it."
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/...02ae5416_c.jpg20180605_125030
where you get that?