what gap do you suggest?
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what gap do you suggest?
Probably will be fine with a .040 gap. If you run TR7IX's they come pre gapped at .038 which is fine. But gap really doesn't matter too much if you're NA as long as they're pre gapped in the range. Boosted you have to run smaller gaps and depending your PSI will determine your gap. I blew out spark at .028 hence why I'm at .018 and don't have an issue with it anymore.
Thanks I do that next plug change.
Well, looks like I'm going double pumper for my fuel pumps. Bulkhead connector burned out hence why the failed fuel pump. Pump is actually still good but I need a new bulkhead connector. About to bite the bullet and just go double pumper.
:brick: :cuss: :rant: :villagers: I loath electrical issues....
Damn Fan 1 still not coming on. Fans motors work, relays work, new connector. I'm out of ideas
Finally got it out for a ride. EBC Yellow stuff pads are worth the money! Holy hell do they bite. I need to readjust my rear bias now.
Having startup and idle issues all of a sudden. Car will start but immediately falls on its face and stalls out, unless you give it gas right as it turns over. Even then the idle is funky, can't decide where it wants to be and almost never idles at the normal 800-850 range.
Got some MAF cleaner but didn't have time to use it due to funeral stuff. Also have an o2 sensor coming today, as Ed told us one of them was running lower voltage when he tuned and would probably go out soon. I suspect one of those two items is the culprit. We shall see.
Is the o2 before the cat or after? Before will effect idle and running, after doesn't come into play until after the car warms up.
Just hope the MAF hasn't :suicide:
Before. I believe the back two are deleted when the LTs were installed.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
And I hope you're right. Those bastards aren't cheap... this one isn't that old either, it is an SLP MAF that the previous owner purchased about 1.5 years/5000 miles ago...
I went speed density with mine. :D
I'll have to admit, I don't know anything about going that route.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
Requires a tune change and deletes the MAF. Easy on your part, a little more work for the tuner. If you're at a constant sea level pressure then it's worth it.
Just go to a tuner and have them tune you for speed density. No more MAF or O2 worries! I've had your issue a couple of times and it always turned out to be something retarded like a bad TPS and a broken injector wire.Quote:
Originally Posted by Y2KArcticSS
Coolant temperature sensor not reading right? Do they turn on when you turn your A/C on?Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
Coolant sensor is working. #2 fan kicks on, I used the jumper on the relays and nothing on 1 but 2 works fine.
I've changed the connector and motor even though both work. At this point I'm seriously considering a bypass harness. I'm looking into which 12v switch wire I can tap into so I don't have to remember to turn the fans on/off every time I start/drive the car. I don't think the radio is big enough and I have my gauges tapped into them already.
Let me check a wiring diagram for you just give me a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
PM Sent. Check your wiring after the relay. If you can apply power directly from the relay by jumping power straight to the motor and it doesn't turn on then it's a wiring issue. Also make sure your ground contacts are clean as well. Three fuses so check all three. Could also be the low speed request circuit wire so be sure to check that as well
Got it thanks.
no problem man good luck!
Gave the MAF, air filter, lid & throttle body a thorough cleaning last night. Had the negative battery cable disconnected throughout the process to give the computer a good reset.
Put it all back together and the car started up like a champ. Had her make some solid WOT runs, kill it, restart it, repeat until I was satisfied the issue was resolved.
Still going to replace the o2 sensor since I already bought it, but it's more of a preemptive strike knowing that it will fail soon enough.