Just ordered and received 8 quarts, a filter, and a one year PC :bravo: And I went through the link on your website, does that do anything to help you guys? :dunno:
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It's been a while since I changed to RP and I haven't posted anything. No UOA's have been done. As mentioned about the other oils I have used SuperTech, Valvoline, and now RP. All three full syn 10w-30. My oil comsumption has disappeared with RP. I have put 4k miles on the car in the past year. This particular oil and filter have 2k-2500 miles. I occassionally cruise in nice weather and drive it to work. During the summer it was driven to the track and back home almost every week. My current set up is cam only with a 200 shot split between 2 stages. RP has gone up to $9 a quart. I am considering changing to Amsoil 100% syn. I will soon be installing a set of ported heads so I am waiting on the oil change.
Without a UOA, can or will you offer any advise?
Well firstly ST/Valvoline have a SM rating...this means ( amongst other things) that they have some stout detergent packs that clean the crap out of your seals/ring packs/gaskets etc....Royal Purple could not meet API SM ratings and do not have that ability....so yeah I bet that garbage does clog up leaks......and that aint nothing to brag about:)....yes and all this at $9 bucks a quart and cannot meet minimum API SM ratings....I wouldn't use it in my weed eater much less my motor.....Royal Purple will claim it is because they didn't want to "dumb down" their formula to meet specs...translation...we are selling this crap as quick as we can make it cuz people will not research what it is we are selling them......RP shears all to hell....and you running the giggle juice you need something that will stay in grade and stand up to the fuel dilution/bearing pressure and that would be Amsoil/Shaeffers and Pennzoil Platinum.....Royal Purple has a loyal following of zombies driven to insanity by a dyno run commercial on Speed Channel that could be matched by Wolfs Head Motor Oil under the exact same circumstances....
Get some proven real motor oil like Amsoil/Shaeffers/Pennzoil Platinum and let go of the marketing bullshit once and for all.....
So mobil 1 5w/30 is no good then? Thats what i have ran always.Is it time for a change?
Car is 98 trans am,good bit of mods.
Mobil1 is great oil. No doubt. Just overpriced for what you get. What are your Oil Change Intervals by the way?
every 3000.
Mods?
hot cam kit,0.50in.219int./228exh.
tci 3200 stall
mid-length headers
high flow cats
volont air induction
flowmaster american thunder exhaust system
eibach pro kit coil spring
sub frame connecters
edelbrock non adjustable torque arm
egr trim
throttle body coolant by pass
be cool 160 deg.
has 71,000 mi on the car. getting TB and and intake about middle of the month
dyno at 375.23 ATRW
So your probably still stock compression and no N2o.....OK....I would go with Pennzoil Yellow Bottle.....for 3K OCI's......you have a trannie cooler on that thing?
i think the compression is 12-1.i think that is what the tuning shop said.and for the trannie cooler,don't think so. not even sure what that is? Or where to look at.sorry...
Never run a stall without a cooler...
http://www.jegs.com/p/Perma-Cool/748615/10002/-1
Dont get caught up in all this bullshit of synthetic versus conventional. Today's SM rated conventional oils are some stout lubes.....
trying to look up your site now. Real slow for some reason. So what kind of oil do you use. And is your car heavy modded? And is it a hard install on the trannie cooler?
I use Schaeffers Series 7000 10-30 in the GTO...Pennzoil Platinum in the Mercedes E320/Pontiac G6 and the Silverado....
Yes my car is heavily modified....
No a trannie cooler is just plumbing.....stall will raise heat significantly=short lived trannie...
ya just looked it up.going to get the 450 sandwich. that should do the trick. well i guess im going to look at that pennzoil in the yellow bottle.should i still stay with the 5/30
10/30
sarge,
have you discussed high mileage oil yet?
or mobil 5000?
what about 0w/30 mobil