That's cool man, so what's the deal with dual friction clutches?
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That's cool man, so what's the deal with dual friction clutches?
The 345 hp came with CME or D/D and this lid.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...s/PICT0001.jpg
Yea, I know hahaha, I'll be getting some kinda intake pretty soon I believe
Hey Burnout Boy, don't just burn 1st gear, bark-em in 2nd and 3rd for real street cred. I get sideways in 2nd and a healthy chirp outa 3rd. And I "only" have a Z28 with a lid and catback.
who the hell is burnout boy.......and you burn 1st burn 2nd and chirp third...THATS CUS YOU PROBLY HAVE F1'S ON IT STILL. add some dr's and please TELL ME WHEN TO GO........YOULL GET TRACTION IN 1ST GEAR BABY ANT THATS WHAT YOU NEED.......BUT GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR SIDEWAYZE NESS ill give you credit for balls out driving
not that I'm answering to burnout boy or anything but that shifting thing sounds pretty cool. never tried it, I only stay in first. cash is tight for right now and when I get more cash for tires I will finish off my old ones in style:flex: :woo: :burnout:Quote:
Originally Posted by 2KN1Z28
ok. thats what us gear heads do instead of tire taxes at the tire shop...burnem up goo... BUT BE CAREFUL have you seen what a busted tires shrapnel can do to your fenderwell or even your paint job..have a friend watch for sparks...TRUST ME ON THIS ONE IVE DONE IT and im lucky i can do body work myself
This is false....Quote:
Originally Posted by wicked_95z
The 35th anniversary package was just appearance mods... badging, paint, rims, interior
The Slp mods are what bumped it up to 345 .. the exhaust and different lid and thats it
Before the demise of the Camaro vette sales werent good at all because people knew that you could save 10-15 grand buy a car slightly mod it and smoke those same vettes for very little money..Quote:
Originally Posted by SSNAKEATER23
And like ive said numerous times before buying a salvaged SS after selling a ghettofied chicano mobile ... makes me sad that you squirmed your way into an SS. Youve barely had the car what two months and youre already fucking it up? Giving this kid an SS Camaro is like giving a two year old a ten inch dick.. neither one can handle what they have and both are pointless.
Have you put some more decals on this one to make it go faster ? Ill guarantee everyone reading this forum that unless this kid gets someone with taste to modify his car that this will be the most hideous and most tasteless styled SS you will see in these forums.. just as his busted ass V6 you see in the icon and on his cardomain was the laughing stock before :true:
:Puke:http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...7_148_full.jpg
Holy hell fellas official video documentation of burnout boy (7camaro7) practicing before he got his salvaged SS has been found
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...337940&q=idiot
not much on clowning people but that cars a v6.. why put so much fuckin body work into a piece o crap..well better than a honda but shit it might as well be one now..with all those appearance mods he coulda bought a stroked ls1 bottom end and started a buildup.
anyways guys, as I was saying... I will probably burn my tires when they get old but not to the point that I smoke the whole neighborhood or anything. I just plan to light them up to make a little(nice cloud) smoke. I never drive until they get completely smooth anyways. I'm not too worried about the paint right now, it's good but not perfect. However, I do plan to keep it in good condition while I have it this color.
easy way to tell, have a dealership check your RPO codes. Unless it was the dealership that sent you car off, for dealer installed mods.
Also all LSx powered cars dyno differently some really low, some really high.
some have dynoed as low as 280- and some as high as 320+
(numbers are based off dyno jet)
Your best bet is, just get your car dynoed and mod the hell out of it.
for mods:
lid
fernco bellow
muffler
LT headers/ory
ported tb/bumpstop mod
then chasis
LCA, subframe connectors, tq arm
then
heads and cam.
oh yeah to make sure you have a reliable car, you might want to squeeze drivetrain in there!
cool man thanks. I found out that it has the 335hp options, but I've got some questions. What do you guess that is to the wheels?
What is ory?
I'm done with mufflers, I'm going catback hahaha...
tell me about the bumpstop mod too.
thanks
i did the bumpstop mod to my throttle body... i havent tuned it since before this mod and ported tb and ported maf. hope i get atleast 3 rwhp. but it makes the blade as open as you can get it.
to answer your questions breakparts and 7camaro7
ORY = off road y-pipe, its the pipe that connects off your headers, but set up to be without cats.
In regards to any cat back system make sure all pipes are mandrel bent not compression bent, magnaflow and gmmg are amoung the best. Or you can do as I did, buy a good sounding muffler like a flowmaster(doesnt flow for crap) and install an exhaust cut out before the muffler, nothing flows better and you can cap it for quietness if you desire.
a ported throttle body has shown as high as 11 rwhp. No joking.
the bumpstop mod, allows the throttle body blade to open closer to 90degress, alows for more air and increase WOT (wide open throttle) voltage to the PCM.
Before I did the mod, my car would chirp 3rd gear, after the mod 3rd gear kicked the ass end sideways.
when you did the bump stop mod, did you use a voltmeter to make sure you didnt go past 4.6 volts anything higher or having the blade open more then 89degrees will set off the ses light.
you dont need a tune after installing headers, port TB or bumpstop mod.
If you plan on doing a cam/heads wait to tune then.
if your car is rated at 335hp I would guess your rear wheel hp to be:
280+ on a mustang dyno
305+ on a dyno jet.
bumpstop info
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm
heres is a post that I wrote awhile ago. it migth be helpfull here too!
"Originally Posted by ibanez7
Damn I can’t believe how many of you forgot to mention that 98-2000 Ls1 dyno completely different then 2001-2002 ls1.
98-2000 ls1 do have a hard time breaking 300rwhp stock. Some as low as 287 some as high as 310
01-02 should consistently be around 315rwhp stock. Some as low as 300 some as high as 330
With about 13% drive-train loss:
98-2000 ls1 crank hp about 325 about!
01-2002 ls1 crank hp about 340 about!
Drive-train loss: GMHTPM rates drivetrain loss at 13%, many others take it has high as 18%. Yes the difference between A4 and M6 plays a part too, M6 suffer less loss.
Yes dyno numbers do range and vary, due too many factors. The two biggest factors being; GMs tolerance or should I say “loose slop”, and the dyno machine.
GM engine geometric tolerance and slop:
The difference between an F-body and a hand built Lamborghini is tolerance slop. Precision cost $$$$ during fabrication. For sake of numbers GM designs to a +/- .005 and lambo builds to +/- .00005. That slop by GM equates to cheaper cost cars and inconsistencies.
Hence why there are factory freaks and extreme swings from low to high on dyno machines(even if is the same dyno machine). Every engine breaks in differently and responds differently.
Dyno Machines:
Eddys and Mustang dyno always show lower numbers then dyno-jet, it’s a know fact!
No matter where you look from here at ls1.com to heavy knowledge based ls1tech.com to GM High tech performance magazine, dyno number range by an extreme amount. Dyno numbers are just a good reference point to see the power difference with new parts.
As far as 1/4 mile times, ls1 01-02 F-BODYS have been know to break into the 12s while completely stock, while some run low 14’s.
It depends on the driver and traction. With average traction and an average (performance driver) should see consistent low 13s. With a great driver you should see 12s in an m6 too.
Also f-body ls1 DO put out the same hp as ls1 vettes.
My 01 z28 m6.
I was able to run 12.9x at Great Lakes Drag, with just a lid and deflated rear tires.
With a lid, LTs, ORY I dynoed on a dyno jet, 347rwhp and 356rwtq.
for more facts read!!! "
That has to be about the best writeup I've seen... thanks for taking the time to post it!
since then I have run 12.3 with suspension mods!
damn man! I knew I had a bad ass car but damn, I'm able to do 12's with minimum mods!
Hey man, why do ppl with m6 get aftermarket tachs with shift lights?
on a stock m6 shouldn't redlining be good enough or is it inaccurate and dangerous to the engine?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7camaro7
I didnt buy an aftermarket tach w/shiftlight, but however I did buy a Raptor performance shift light.
It was cost about $80 and its accurate.
here is my posted review!
"test car:
2001 camaro z28 a4... j/k its an m6
I just spent $80 on a led cluster Raptor shift light.
At first I was hesitant and held off on buying one for a long time, I figured $80 is kind of pricey for a light to tell me when to shift. Hell my ears and feel for the engine tells me when to shift!
Well after bouncing off the rev limiter a few times when street racing, I figured screw it, it's time to get one.
Heres the three things I found out with installing and racing with one:
1. install was easy, I dont smoke so I removed my cigarette lighter and replaced it with an on/off toggle for shift light, and wired the power and ground correctly, then I routed the raptor green wire under the passenger side of the dash board and fed the wire in between the front fender and frame to where the pcm is located, and I spliced the green wire into the white (engine speed) wire at pin out 10.
adjusted the pin/pots in the shift light to 6000 rpms (rev limiter is 6200) lets be safe.
Led shift light is mounted on the steering column. all wires are hidden
excellent it's installed - about 30mins (very neat and picky about my wiring)
2. driving and racing with the shift light. All I can say is WOW, I wish i would have installed one a long time ago. First thing I noticed is how far off the factory tach is. When the raptor shift light is flashing at 6000, the factory tach says 5400, hence why its easy to hit the rev limiter. Plus LSx based engines dont sound like their winding out until closer to 7000rpms.
3. when racing or driving spirited, its so nice being able to focus completely on track/highway/other cars. the shift light really allows for that!
in conclusion, its a great purchase and really increases the safety factor for your saving your valvetrain by having excellent RPM accurancy, and increases your safety as a driver by allowing you to focus on whats in front of you.
Also its great knowing you can shift at the top of your power band, and not worry about over reving or under reving..."
my o2 z has kooks lts,ory no cats,ported t/b and maf.msd wires ngk 55 plugs.kn cold air.t/b bypass.160 deg thermostat.centerforce clutch. and custom cat back. 350rwhp on a mustang dyno with stock pulley and fuel injectors stock cam..stock heads..no cutout...i actually run a bit slower when i almost redline..with my stock cam i shift at 5500 to 5700 rpm and it works best.crazy to think what a big cam and a 90/90 would do. OH and no i didnt check any thing when i ported the t/b just ground the bumpstop till it looked 90 drgrees.. no ses light .