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Understandable. Actually 2-3 weeks lead time doesn't sound horrible considering the time of year. Usually they are only slow around Christmas and New Year from my experiences, and you are right smack in the middle of race season.
The last engine I tried to do during race season took 10 months to get back, and that was just all the machined parts.
I'd label everything with your last name on a side that you wouldn't see once the whole engine is assembled but visible on a short block with a sharpie or a paint marker. That way your parts can't easily get mixed up.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
Also on a similar topic is $250 cheap or expensive to look at a disassembled rotating assembly and block to see if anything needs replacing? That is what the shop near me wants. Although I told them I need cam bearings so I wonder if they included that in the price.
Well let's see.....
There's this...shit ton of oil, yet not a drop on the ground...
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psce9a98ac.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psd96035c1.jpg
Yet no leaks from the rear main
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps96dff559.jpg
then I see this
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psacbc98c8.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps67758503.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psba63fd30.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psbb735b7a.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps1e3705ec.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psaf1cecc1.jpg
No spun rods that I could tell.....nothing gave or felt loose on the crank? :wtf:
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps554c7ace.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps7d4e7058.jpg
The pistons are from 7 & 8, 8 being the worst.
Yikes. Where's the button for "Don't Like"?
The oil leak at the back of the engine is probably your pan gasket. I thought for sure our rear main was weeping, but like yours it was bone dry when I dropped the transmission. Swapped out the pan gasket and our car has been leak free since.
Lack of significant carnage makes me upset :devil:
So, did you not find the source of the knocking?
I looked at the sleeves last night and I didn't see anything like scratches or grooves. The stuff in the yellow circles is just below the sleeves (the block itself). Can a machine shop fix this? Will it require re-sheeving it?
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...pse454c493.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps980bef32.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...pscb9bca1d.jpg
Do we have a diagnosis on what beat things up?
That's what I'm asking.....the reason I posted the pics....not sure what else to do besides pulling the cam and see.
I'm hoping FBJ or Cutlass see this.
Nothing down in the oil pan?
not that I could see. I'm going to run a magnet around it see if it picks up any thing. Hell I could have drained out while I was emptying the pan prior to pulling the block.
that looks odd do you have pics of the rods? and how many cylinders is that in? Just a guess without seeing things more closely but I suppose a rod could have bent and started smacking the sleeves
oooo....something was bouncing around in there, huh? I think its fixable. It doesn't look like the piston goes down that far so all you have to do is dress the area with a file or something. Or you could probably just leave it. I don't think its gonna give you any trouble. Now you just have to find what was bouncing around in there.
Yup I agree like I said maybe the rod had a slight bend in it and starting smacking around. You could probably bore the cylinders .010 over and cleanup the bottom and reuse but I would still rather have the 6.0 in there for the torque and stroker options laterQuote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass
I'm wondering if I broke one of the new lifters. The old ones look ok, & I checked the orginal pr's = no bends.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass
I will pull them & see.
So, I was having my son tear down the 6liter yesterday and we found this.
#8 piston
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps4f7ea59c.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps78c792eb.jpg
I was told the motor was working fine when they pulled it from a wreak.....working motor my ass....:cuss:
I would be at the desk :rant: right now if it wasn't the fact I bought it a yr ago and let it sit in storage.
I'm glad I paid only $300
The crank looks good, no damage or markings and the cylinders have not grovves or scratches besides the cross hatch. So glad I planned in my budget on having the shop look this over.
Order all of the following:
BTR SLR Hydraulic Roller Lifters
2x LS2 Pistons (GTO 6.0L) Part # 19178305
ARP LS1/LS2 Main Stud Kit Part: 234-5608
GM LSX Front Crank Seal, Part # 12585673
Pilot Bearing for LS1 Based Vehicles, Part # 14061685
GM LSX Timing Cover Gasket, Part # 12633904
These I’m getting these from another member here:
Water Pump Gasket
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Rear Cover Gasket
Rear Main Seal
Pro-Series LS1 "Cracked Rod" Connecting Rod Bolts
When these get in I should be able to drop off at the machine shop :woot:
clean up a bunch of stuff.....damn that r&p leak is messy...