Just to verify, does the 98 TA's have the metal or plastic tank? Also, if it is the metal tank, is this the pump I should use? Racetronix - FPA-002 - F98 Fuel Pump Assembly - Performance
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Just to verify, does the 98 TA's have the metal or plastic tank? Also, if it is the metal tank, is this the pump I should use? Racetronix - FPA-002 - F98 Fuel Pump Assembly - Performance
Yes, that is the fuel filter. I also use the Racetronix fuel pump.
Thanks for the verification.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
Yes the tanks on 98's are metal.
Fuel filters go for $16, can do in the driveway.
Racetronics makes a great fuel pump replacement
Now the PS pump issue - like Jeff mention it can be from over filling to a stupid $0.60 o ring failure on the high pressure line. I have a tech thread that can help you on fixing it
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/so-you-...g-leak-151991/
Here are more tech sticky threads. they are located in the general tech help section.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/technic...tickies-79083/
Thanks Scott. I will look at the write-ups!Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
I just called my local Chevy dealer and spoke to one of their mechanics that has 20+ years. I told him what the other mechanic told me and what is actually going on, and asked if I should bring it in for a second opinion. He said, "The guys on the money." I asked him if it could be the regulator or a vacuum leak. He said, "No. Even, with a vacuum leak, you still should have a decent amount of pressure, if not, mostly all of it. With your pressure being about 20 PSI lower, your fuel pump is starting to go out." He told me, I could bring it in and pay $90 for them to diagnose it, but he does not recommend it as what the other mechanic told me is correct. He quoted me $400 cheaper than the other guy!
However, I will most likely make a trap door and change it that way!
I would avoid Seafoam -- it is simply a high power solvent. Although I am not a big believer in additives, Chevron Techron is the way to go.
I have an idea to what I will do with the underneath of my car. Not sure if I will do it over the winter or in spring. Although, I don't know anyone that has a lift for me to access the underneath of my car!
Here are my thoughts:
1. Buy an electric angle grinder and a 60 grit sander wheel attachment to knock off the surface rust.
2. Rent or buy a small 30 gallon compressor and a small portable handy blaster. Buy some play sand from Lowes or Home Depot, and sandblast the underneath and rear differential.
3. Once, the rust is removed, spray the underneath of my car and rear differential with POR-15.
http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/...psd59d2f0c.jpg
Are my thoughts pretty reasonable or is this outrageous?!
Would these jackstands work to put my car on? http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...80036/10002/-1
Also, guess what was waiting on my door for me....
I can hear the sound in my head!! haha
http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/...psd3804ba8.jpg
http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7df426d9.jpg
http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/...psb557d133.jpg
http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/...pscaa1cfd4.jpg
http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/...ps657b452c.jpg
http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/...ps913a60ab.jpg
http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7d989516.jpg
http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8ff25d93.jpg
http://i1309.photobucket.com/albums/...ps76df02aa.jpg
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Alright, thank you for the advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
Personally I would avoid cutting a hole in the tank. Just drop the tank. It's not that difficult to do. With the rear end out of the car you'll have a much easier time cleaning it also.
The sand blasting idea has much more to it then you think.....Remember you have wire harnesses, break and fuel lines that all can be damage. Removing them takes lots of time.
I also recommending taking off the body molds that run along the sides of the car. You might not intentional aim at them but sand could still hit 'em and damage the plastic.
Also sand blasting is great for removing rust but it can also take metal with it. If your floor pans are ate through with rust you'll find out on the 1st or 2nd pass. I doubt this is the case but thought you should be warned.
A wire brush and some scotch brite pads would be best IMHO.
I would talk with PAJeff02 about how he did his. If you've seen pics of the underside of his car you would swear it can be ate off of. I've never seen a car as clean as his.
Dropping the rear is not to hard to do, you could have it out in about 30-40 minutes (all with proper tools). Only major hang ups I have are when the sway bar bolts are rusted. I spray lots of PB Blaster and soak them for 30mins-1 hr. Also using a impact wrench works great on them. I also replace those bolts with new ones because after 14 yrs the rust as made the threads weak.
Dropping the tank make sure you are almost empty. A full tank weighs around 100 lbs of fuel plus the weight of the tank too.
I would never consider sandblasting a car unless it is stripped down to a shell... just too many places for the sand to go. A wire brush mounted on an angle grinder will make quick work of removing the rust -- but like Scott said, be very careful around wires and fluid lines. You can use tape, newspaper and/or aluminum foil to mask off the underbody before painting it. I have had mixed results with rubberized undercoating, so nothing I can recommend. I do use POR-15 quite a bit on restorations and it works great. Just don't allow any to get on your skin or you'll be temporarily tattooed. You may want to consider a rust converter type product as a base coat, but you'll have to check for compatability with your intended top coat.
great looking car,i never saw a factory painted green t/a before,although i have saw many green camaros u have the best door panels because the 98's dont crack like other years,that detail really woke the car up congrats and keep us posted
Wow, great looking car! I love the green. Definitely a nice find. I will be watching this thread to see the progress. Also, once the exhaust is installed, please post a sound clip if possible. I am thinking of getting this exhaust for my T/A.
Enjoy your car and i agree with not going too crazy with the mods. Just enough to dress up the car a little and give it a little more power will be enough.
Welcome and nice T/A.
I'm not getting good feedback on the sandblasting, so that is out of the picture! hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
After the first of the year when I install the exhaust, I will wire brush the rush with PB Blaster or WD-40. Afte the rust is cleaned, I will take the car to get the underbody coated.
Thanks, I appreciate the compliments! :cheers: Until I looked at this car, I have never seen the color either!Quote:
Originally Posted by fbodyNATION
Quote:
Originally Posted by thor2001TA
Thanks! :cheers:
No problem, I'll take a video for you and post it. It should be up in a few weeks :)
I don't plan on going crazy with the mods. I think the most I will do is:
- Haders (TSP or Pacesetter 3/4 or 7/8)
- Y-pipe (TSP or Pacesetter 3")
- WS6 Ram Air Hood
- WS6 Rims
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Thanks! :cheers:Quote:
Originally Posted by initechpeter
Undercoating will end up on everything. Better to spot repair the worst areas yourself -- you'll be much happier with the result. I did the underside of our Suburban in a couple of hours last year.
did he charge you a fortune do pull the plugs? if he actually did pull the plugs, you should have had him install new ones anyway since they are a pain in the ass to change....at least the back passenger side is....Quote:
Originally Posted by fastls1ta
No, it was included with the inspection. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by jiveass