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They plug into the ECU here also and i pass every time. You have emissions deleted as they are looking for codes and considering your car wont throw any codes, youll pass.Quote:
Originally Posted by thomasterrible
My trap and e.t are thanks to my mods.
While not a bolt on I am sure the cam helps you quite a bit with HP. I have considered the LS6 manifold, that is a known quantity as far as what it will do. I have not checked in to port or gasket matching a manifold made of that material though as long as it is off seems like a good thing to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by nhraformula
The only thing I am not hot on (for my use) is the high rmp stall converter since I will be using my daily driver a lot for commuting in traffic.
A stall is the best mod a person can do to an automatic car.Quote:
Originally Posted by thomasterrible
Get a good trans cooler and heat wont be a problem.
You can even get a bigger oil pan for further cooling:Poland:
Ported F.A.S.T intakes give good gains, but are best suited for when a car is cammed.
I know that the converter will give good gains but when talking to my transmission mechanic he advised against it for what I am going to do with the car. This is my daily driver and I am attempting to do mods that will be easy to change back to stock in case I ever decide to sell it.Quote:
Originally Posted by nhraformula
The tranny shifts harder than any of the autos I have test driven before actually buying this car, I am not sure if that is due to its much lower mileage. Upon acceleration the car pushes me back in the seat far more than the other yet newer cars as well.
I also dont have a place to work on my car myself which means for many things I could do I will have to pay someone else to do.
I am going to look up what the stock rear gears are on the car, lower gears will hurt the MPG but make it quicker. I also am going to have to figure out some sort of traction control for it, lower gears would also make that even more of an issue. I have the tires I want for the sort of driving I intend to do, if I wanted to take it to the track I would buy a second set of wheels with some slicks. My ET goals are just generalized by comparison of what other much more expensive stock sports cars run that would be nice to keep up with or beat on the street.
My 1200CC 10.0 second street bike is what I currently use for my adrenaline fixes and to beat any car dumb enough to want to race me so far. This is not just my daily drive but my ONLY car.
I really liked my last corvette, it just needed more power to be perfect for me and the LS1 is a much better engine to start with. I am trying to find a dyno tuner in my area because I used a Hypertech chip in the vette and it did little to nothing, not making that mistake again.
NHRA has the ability to run low 11s with his ride, with some weight reduction on race day. You see he is a pollock, and pollocks refuse to put their $$$ in the bank for fear of the bank stealing it or the gov't taxing it. So the majority of us pollocks carry all of our savings around in our pockets. On any given race day NHRA is riding with his hatch filled with $100s and his pockets jammed with change easily adding upwards of 50-100 lbs of race weight. If he would just get a damn savings account sub 11s would be within reach:Poland:Quote:
Originally Posted by nhraformula
People keep talking about debaffling the hood not making a difference and then quoting this. I believe they are simplt talking about the black honeycomb grills that are fastened to the very front of the intake, not the baffles. Think about it, those grills are basically like a maf screen, they impede practically nothing.Quote:
Originally Posted by thomasterrible
Now the baffles on the other hand.. without my baffles I do not have any quantifiable data, but I seem to consistantly gain on a pretty easily replicated benchmark I have.
Plus it's way cool to see the filters :hyper:, and I haven't had a problem with rain.
I continue to research this. When it comes to the Volant I saw they made one box with the two conical filters at angles such as goof seems to have and one with a single filter design, not sure what the difference is or if one is newer. It did seem the two filter design was similar to what they have for the vette.
I saw a stock blackwing going for 300 bucks (and not selling) on ebay.
different versions of the SLP lids, and the lids were different for my 98 than a 00-02.
I have seen 2 different photos of the JAMMS set up, looked like 2 different systems.
If I were to use the JAMMS with the SLP or the Volant I would carefully remove those plastic hood nostril restrictions and keep them as a replaceable to stock part. It seems to make sense to unplug your nose to breath better and those systems are only made to help use the stock hood openings on WS6 hoods which IMO should have been utilized to begin with by the factory with some nice clean fitting hood ram air system.
The JAMMs is designed to somewhat seal the hood to the stock air box (stock or SLP lid doesn't matter). I don't think it will seal to the Volant. So if you want the Volant and the JAMMS, then just get the bottom diverter plate and not the whole JAMMs WS6 kit
I was considering the Jamms with the stock airbox and aftermarket lid vs the Volant.
I am holding off on mods while I research the cost and performance of everything.
If the little things add up to enough money it is possible I may consider saving up for a low psi blower kit instead which would allow me to keep the stock rear gears, converter and other parts and just have the Hp increase give me the performance gains I want, with consistent pressurized air and efficiency from Idle on.
If the stock LS1 can handle the blower kit is something I am looking in to.
I have always wanted to put a supercharger on one of my performance cars as well so it would be particularly cool for me to have.
+1 :right:Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass
I've been looking into upgrading the appearance of the stock air filter lid and saw a Volant at a local car show. It looked extremely sweet... does anyone know if it is required to change out the MAF and/or any check engine light issues with having the Volant vs Factory lids installed? I also have heard that the oil residue from the K&N and Volant style filters will cause all kinds of problems with vehicles as it blows in and gets to the MAF and other sensors in the intake.
Thoughts?
my car has enough quirks that i haven't noticed any different in the maf cleanings...but i'll clean it again and let u know. latest photo i have of under the hood, apparently from the winter.http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs211...._7504623_n.jpg
And volant made a 2 filter for the t/a, and the wide single filter for the camaro. asthetic reasons i would believe.
It is just an air box so no MAF or anything needs to be changed. There was another member in this thread that was using a K&N filter but had trouble with the oil getting on the MAF sensor (the thin wire in it that measures air density is very sensitive) and was talking about changing back to a stock filter. Same thing with not cutting the screen off the front of the MAF. I suppose it depends on how careful one is with the cleaning and re-oiling of the reusable filters but I like the throw away ones myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by 02TRANS
I am holding off on any air box/lid change for now in case I decide to go with a supercharger in which case I would have wasted my money on it.
i ran a slp lid...worked pretty good
Ya ya that was me. Within a couple of days after adding the new K&N I dropped about 4mpg! Now, I can't imagine this is a regular occurrence (at least I hope not) but that was my experience...Quote:
Originally Posted by thomasterrible
Yes I remembered your comment. I have not even measured MPG on my car yet, what I did notice that I thought odd was there is no low fuel light that comes on when fuel is low.Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmalgar
The filters are different on the Volant in that they are those double conical design, if this makes any difference I have no idea. I have nothing against K&N products it is just that I usually like the convenience of having a new paper filter and not having to wash, dry and re-oil the K&N's or other reusable filters like the Airraids. A new one came with my street bike and I never installed it and I do prefer other brands of oil filters.
You are not the only one to comment on the oil issue, of course when used on a carb's motor you dont have that issue and on most of their kits they have long plastic tubes before getting to the MAF which may pick up any oil that gets through due to the length of the tubes. That is just a guess of course.
I just cleaned my MAF and installed a new filter today. I also received my Procharger Catalog today, I am not making any mods until I have a collective plan.
I have the slp lid that came with the slp "flopac" kit from Jegs. Although I have a ws-6 with the ram air hood I was bored and figured I would install another form of ram air with the flopac. The factory ram air hood doesn't really seal well to the airbox anyway. Kit comes with the lid, high flow bellows, K&N filter, and additional air feed that mounts near the radiator. The slp lid takes a little patience to get to fit well. I find that by adjusting the bellows I can get a nice tight fit otherwise the lid keeps on poping out of the factory clips. This is one of the mods that I can definetly say has a good effect on performance and the sound is awsome since you remove the factory silencers during instalation.
Good to hear from someone that has actually used it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Black WS-6
I have taken a good look at the stock set up and do think that the stock set up could have been better. If they could have a nice sealed to the hood set up back in the 60's why not at least that good with the modern technology?
The entire stock unit could have a better quality fit and flow if GM would have just decided to do so IMO. Having it seal better certainly makes sense to me. I also dont know how many CFM's are flowing through the stock system and how much is useful for the stock calibrated motor. I just changed my air filter and cleaned out the box and a couple of insects had somehow got through and were smashed against the MAF screen.
I bought the car used so it is hard to guess. The oval air box seal had become partially unglued though just because of the materials used and being old. I might get a lid just to have a bit better unit if I am going to replace a worn one anyway.
Still as I mentioned I am seriously considering installing a Procharger kit so it doesnt make much sense for me to spend money on the little mods that wont end up being used if I do that. I like the idea of keeping the stock gear ratio and just adding some significant power with the blower, intercooler, injectors and programmer. Perhaps a LS6 manifold while I was at it. For my uses that would work really well.
This is not a quiet car even stock. With the road noise from wide tires to the low insulation. With the tops off even worse. If there is going to be noise though at least let it be something you like to hear, exhaust tone, blower whine, whatever one likes or just attempt to drown out what you dont like with your stereo system. I am not complaining just commenting, like most people I got this particular car because I like its performance, I like other things about it but that is the main attraction.
I have gotten a few bugs in my M.A.F myself. I'm not sure how they get in there but they manage. This is one of the reasons I didn't remove the screen from the M.A.F. I have the slp M.A.F and I haven't had any problems with the oil from the K&N getting in there. I guess it depends on how much the filter is oiled. As far as the SLP M.A.F is concerned, I really don't see any performance gain and the factory one prob works just as well. I'm hoping the edlebrock throttle body I ordered might flow better than the stocker. I have the LS-6 intake and it seems to be one of the better choices for intakes.
I think the LS-6 is a good choice for the money, it is a factory item and as much as I want to spend. There are other manifolds out there if one wants to spend the money on them but I dont. You really dont need a larger MAF on a stock motor or until you get around 400HP is the common agreement. The ported and polished ones seem like a good deal but for sure it is not a good idea to run a MAF with no screen. As we have both found out it does have an important function, it is the last line of defense before things pass through the throttle body and in to the motor, things even worse than bugs. I think you are correct about how much oil is on the filter. The person that reported an issue on this thread noticed because his MPG decreased. I dont watch my MPG that closely but have heard other reports of oil on the MAF wires so I would be cautious were I to use a reusable filter. You sort of have to consider your modifications as a package, if you have an otherwise stock motor there is not much benefit of a larger throttle body. It is much like matching a carbs CFM's to how much is needed by the mods to the engine such as the size of the valves and how much fuel the cam dumps in. With the LS-1 it is the cam size and the injector size and the computer programming and whatever else you do to it that would benefit from the larger MAF or need more flow as opposed to just more efficiency. You can go many ways with these cars as many people have done depending on your wallet and purpose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Black WS-6