Printable View
Yes, that is exactly what our WS6 does, with a stock head unit that's never been replaced as far as I can tell. I've looked it up and found several videos and write-ups showing these symptoms and the BCM fix they performed.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarrenWS6
I have the BCM pic of where you're suppose to solder if you need it.
I did mine and no issues since.
Yes please :DQuote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
Got my tires in. Went with 295/55/15s. They are balanced now although one needed 13 oz anyone ever need that much weight? The wheels were perfectly balanced which required no weight. The other only need 3 oz.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6bed3687d1.jpg
Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk
13 ounces is an ungodly amount of weight. Usually 4 ounces is a lot and your 3 times that
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Wondering if I should try a different tire place or if the tire is messed up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass
Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk
Also my other one actually required 3.75 oz so I'm wondering if their machines suck.Quote:
Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6
Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk
3.75 is acceptable. I wonder if that 13 oz one isn’t seated all the way. But that should be easy to spot especially if you spin it and watch it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pictures of the one in question. A tire shop should know if it's on right though right lol? I've not had issues with this shop in the past so I'm at a loss unless it's a bad tire.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7eeb4a9b05.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a7157248ff.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass
Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk
I agree. That is quite a bit of weight on the wheel. I think 5 or 6 oz. is the most I have had to use and that was a big ass truck tire.
The tire shop said is should get the company to send another tire. I am going to maybe take it to another place and see what they get....well unless the company I bought it from will send me another tire like I asked.Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk
I was picturing 13 oz on the outer or inner. Now I see 10 oz on the outer and 3 oz on the inner. Still pretty crappy. It’s probably the tire but you could try to drive on it. If it’s balanced and doesn’t shake, you could use it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6Pictures of the one in question. A tire shop should know if it's on right though right lol? I've not had issues with this shop in the past so I'm at a loss unless it's a bad tire.
Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oh no I hate weights on the outside. I mean it's just going to be used on the track really, not a DD. I might take it to another shop to double check. Also from a quick internet search it seems these tires need some weight on them. Not sure if it's 13 oz amount of weight but many have said they need a lot. I think I'll also have them static or bubble balanced as MT suggests and double check that the shop did that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass
Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk
The dynamic balance (which is what you have) is much better than a static balance. Also, the fact that the outside weights are on the inside portion of the rim means that more weight is required as compared to attaching the weights to the outside bead. I always balance aluminum wheels in this manner. Modern computer balancing allows you to select where the weights will be attached as part of the setup program.
Okay good, I was just stating what MT says on their site. I'm not sure what to do then lol well other than take it to another place but that's shooting in the dark because maybe they don't do a very good job either (assuming that's the problem and not the tire). I have a feeling unless I contact MT directly I'm not getting a new tire and still maybe not. I guess the last option will just be run them until I need new tires and hope the next ones don't need as much weight. That or use a different brand and hope for the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk
Still so sorry about that, but it drives nice! :lmao:Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
^^ Likes to challenge me. :)
Stored mine in PaJeff's auto storage lair today. Plans and hopes are to wake it up early this winter for installation of the longtube headers, OR/Y, intermediate pipe, poly engine mounts, spark plugs/wires, and i'm sure theres a couple other parts.
Today before departing with it I replaced the broken power antenna assembly with one I bought from a part-out car for $50.00. Was hoping to buy more suspension pieces for Black Friday ( Adj. UMI LCA & Relocation brackets ) but that didn't happen. Bought the girlfriend a necklace from Jared's for anniversary, paid other bills, bought a Kooks Y pipe for a whooping $280, and unfortunately I succeeded in earning a traffic citation from the trooper monitoring I-276 at 8pm who nailed my Cobalt SS for tint, and a smoked license plate cover. Pissed me off because with my history for speeding tickets I set my cruise control to 70mph, so I know I wasn't speeding LOL.
I finally got a day to complete step one of installing the new Procharger that is laying in my garage laughing at me. Step one of course is to make sure I have adequate and reliable fuel pressure. New Racetronix fuel pump and hot wire installed, check! Instructions for the pump were pretty good. Instructions for the hot wire were not included and when I did get a set, they are not actually for the later model and don't show the actual connections or routing of the wires. After reviewing a bunch of posts, I got it figured out and it was of course easier than I had imagined it would be. I learned that yes you can do the same trap door on convertibles as hatch back models. I did decide to do one thing different due to my paranoia about cutting into the metal directly above the fuel lines. Since the fuel lines go from the center of the tank toward the drivers side, I cut the rear, passenger side, and front of the panel and left the drivers side attached then just lifted the panel (bent) into place while I removed the pump. Another top tip, tape the edges of the razor sharp metal edges while you work even if you don't think you need to... Fuel pressure went from around 52 to just over 60 PSI. The car feels stronger on the top end as well, or maybe I'm just imagining it. I also changed the belts just a preventive since they will be harder to access once the Procharger is installed. Next step find a long weekend to get started on the install. Anybody need an original fuel pump with less than 14K miles?
Fixed the fuel issue we were having with our T/A last weekend. My dad and I pulled the pump, and luckily the previous owner already had a very clean hatch cut. It turns out, the previous owner's mechanic was a joke. They did a very piss poor job of installing the Racetronix pump. The secondary fuel line into the top of the pump was plastic and kinked in several places because it wasn't meant to bend (think of trying to use a McDonald's straw in that location). On top of that it was actually completely disconnected from the pump itself. Easy fix with some $3 fuel tubing from O'Reilly's. Also, we found that the clamp for the top of the accordion feed line was half-ass crimped and very loose, no seal. Easy fix with some real man-hands and a pair of pliers. The car runs SO much better now it's unbelievable. No more cutting out at 1/4 tank and below (probably because the pump isn't sucking air anymore where the secondary hose was supposed to be), and the car just feels more powerful overall. I still think it needs a better tune, but I'm really starting to wonder if the pump could have been part of the reason for subpar numbers in the first place. That will have to wait until after Christmas.
