Super jealous of the lift. Makes wrenching on cars soooooo much easier.
Printable View
I got a QuickJack last year, and although it only lifts about 18 inches, I've been able to do almost every job I've needed to with it! And I only have a normal size 1 car garage (11 x 22 ft, 8 ft ceiling).
Found a couple 12200411 so I can pick one up and get a tune finally. Will keep stock---stock and get the spare sent to Frost for a working over. Should be a nice addition to whats been done lately
I washed my engine bay on Monday using Adams Polishes APC, light pressure washer nossle, my Adams wheel scrubbing brush, and leaf blower for trying/dissipating water pools. Then later on I came back after it was fully dry and hit all the rubbers and plastics with Adams VRT to get everything looking rich, fresh, and revived.
After washing/drying, before VRT.
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...psnlppbitg.jpg
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...psss9o1omp.jpg
After dressing with VRT.
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...pskcgrioa5.jpg
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps1y0mqlfd.jpg
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...psyyilwlcm.jpg
I am loving the results. Nice matte finish with a light sheen. Once the EGR is removed along with the airpump setup, much less to clean under there.
Your airlid is rubbing on the hood. I would apply a small piece of foam on the hood side to stop the rubbing.
Other than that she looks very crisp and clean.
I all ways wanted to wash my engine, but I'm scared to death getting something wet I shouldn't.
Could anybody post a link on "How to wash a LS1 engine"?
By-the-way Darren your engine bay looks great even with the scuffs on the airlid.
Really it's just spray it lightly. Mask off any electrical stuff your worried about mainly the connections. I usually just use a all purpose cleaner or a degreaser depending on how dirty it is. Don't let it sit for too long because several of them can stain or eat metal/paint depending on what's in it. Use a cloth or brush to scrub it all down. Then spray it down lightly again to wash it off and dry. As long as you don't go nuts spraying it down with water you should be fine.
Unfortunately I get to do it all over again because UMI's factory setting isn't the correct setting as my pinion angle is off causing some problems!!!! So hopefully this weekend I can steal away some time from the home construction I'm into to get it redone and maybe drive it a little.
That only holds 3,500 lbs or do you have something different? My car came in at 3,560 at the last track outing with very little fuel and everything emptied out of the car....
Shouldn't have to worry to much about taping things up just don't go crazy around the electronic's one area to watch is under the intake as water WILL fill up your knock sensors and could cause problems down the road..I spray all my daily drivers down with a trusted degreaser and power wash them at least twice a year, get my air hose or leaf blower and dry it the best I can and then start it and let it run a bit...
This is a video I found on cleaning a engine.....................
https://youtu.be/bSCLaRRdYXE
There is NO WAY I'm going to do that to my engine, even if he does get that engine started every light on the dash will be on. won't it?
Dropped it off at the mechanic so the new engine can be put in. Also bought some new rims.
Got the WS6 detailed today, including clay barred. Hopefully, the weather is good enough to take some pix, and I will figure out how to (succesfully) link the pix up here, been hit or miss for me.
No they wont. Hes using a low pressure nozzle to begin with and probably a lower pressure power washer. Professional detailers use pressure washers all the time on the exterior and engine bays. The engine should have been off for a while and cool. Really the only thing you have to worry about is the alternator and with ours being low on the engine its not a huge concern since it wont likely be hit by a direct spray. You can cover the battery connections and I cover some of the engines connections just out of precaution with the rubber being 14 years old. Aluminum foil or a plastic bag work great. In all likeliness i don't really need to do this. Notice he doesn't keep it on one spot he keeps it moving at all times. Now thats a quick and easy way to do it. Time is money for him. If your engine is pretty clean then simply spray it down with your degreaser or all purpose cleaner of choice. Scrub it with a soft brush and hose off. It really is that simple.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcT9eCULBCY
This is one done more by hand but notice the hose he uses is still pretty high pressure.
It wasn't "today", but this past Friday I fired up my car for the first time in about 8 months. She had a broken ring in cylinder 7. Over the course of the last month I pulled the motor and had it gone through. Then I put in a 228R cam kit from TSP that included cam, springs, oil pump and all associated gaskets. I also deleted the air system and upgraded to the LS6 valley cover, added a set of long tube headers and ory along with a yank 3600SS stall. Still need to get it properly tuned as I just got a mail order tune from TSP along with the cam kit I bought. Still runs amazing though.
I just pressure washed my engine the same way the guy did in the video. I pre-soaked, sprayed my APC, scrubbed with my soft brissle wheel brush, and rinsed. I blew the engine dry with my leaf blower, and later that day I dressed the plastics in my trim detailer. No harm done, just think and be careful, no worries.
96k miles on this LS.
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...pskcgrioa5.jpg
Looks great, Darren! Heard you had a "traction issue" in the bank parking lot last night. :D
Lol! Well some guy in something I don't even know what it was, came in hot and left a few degrees warmer and more sideways. Then this guy with a C6 Corvette left sideways to the stop sign. I said to Ed I should show them how to really do it, he chuckled and implied I wouldn't. So upon my leaving I reved a couple times until Ed looked over and did a 2500rpm clutch drop. Looked in the rear view and saw a haze. Called myself an idiot due to the pinion angle, but I guess that's more motivation to upgrade the rear right?
I gave UMI $700 some bucks and they shipped me some items :D
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...pskr0jpiau.jpg
Adjustable full length torque arm, relocation bracket, poly bushings, Energy Suspension prothane engine/trans mounts, MSD coil pack wires, NGK TR-55 plugs. I think all I need left for the longtube header job is some clamps, an intermediate pipe, Bosch 13111 O2 wires, sleeves for the MSD wires, and some HPTuners file tuning.
New tires! 275/70/17 BFG Sport Comp 2!
https://youtu.be/XDkrH_HVgx0