No I haven't greased it but with noise like mine, it doesn't sound like grease would fix that!! Almost sounds like bushings are needing to be replaced.
Printable View
my girlfriend and I washed our cars for a show tomorrow. http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps812c5482.jpg
I drove it to and from work. I had five random people compliment my car.
Had a couple other people compliment it yesterday while I was out cruising.
Third day of ownership and I'm loving it.
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Insomnia reared its ugly head last night/this morning.
Got home from work around 2:30ish this morning. Tried to fall asleep but that didn't happen.
Decided to go for a drive and gave my new toy her first bath.
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great day won first place for car 1990-1999, and my girlfriend won nothing. gonna have some fun tonight!! lolhttp://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...pse134bffb.jpg
Finally got around to putting the tick master cylinder in, and holy crap what a difference in shifting. On the bad side though I found while taking apart the panel that covers the pedals and wires under the dash that half of my clutch pedal spring is broke, so I got to replace that to, needless to say I just cant win LOL.
When installing the tick mc it's recommended to remove that spring anyways
I pulled mine out when I swapped masters and it has been working fine since
my other car( 2012 Nissan rogue) was hit by a massive hail storm, had damage to every panel. thank God I spent the weekend at my G.F house or my trans am would have been thrashed too.
Does anyone have a picture of that Y-Pipe support bracket that keeps the y pipe from hitting the underside of the car when you have bigger exhaust? I got the bracket and want to see how others have installed it.
my trans am got left in the garage today.......................thunderstorms all day today :Ohno:
Here it is -- this was posted in response to an issue I had when I installed my Kooks LT's and catted Y-pipe: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f63/kooks-...ml#post2262139
Got these yesterday.
Smart Fire Injectors 42lb
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...psf305003c.jpg
Got a ses light a month ago. Code reader says it's the camshaft sensor. Put in a new oil pressure switch while I was there. Had to pull off almost everything on top of the engine to get to it last nite. PITA. Only took about 1.5 hrs. Now gotta put it all back together. YEAH.
it finally quit storming :hide: so I drove mine today for the first time in like a week...
Changed plugs and wires. She runs like she use to...sweeeet.
finally had a decent stereo installed. http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psf28c2ebf.jpg
New plugs and wires a few days ago and today replaced parking lights, connectors, & bulbs on my TA. Lights are perfect now and car runs good with new plugs... still chew my arm up on that last plug install.
They definitely didn't make these cars maintenance friendly did they? How do you change a plug that you can't even see??? We must love our cars to tear our bodies up in order to take care of them the way we do.....
I had a tougher time changing Number 8 on our Suburban than I did on the Trans Am. The Suburban has the rear HVAC unit and all the aluminum tubes are right where you need to be to get at the plug.
I wonder if the engineers who design these vehicles would have to change their own plugs and wires, if they would have made them more user/maintenance friendly??? Just a thought.... But I imagine when that air conditioner in the rear is working, you most likely don't think of the plugs very much....ahhhhh, nice cool air.....
Delete your HVAC and it is easy :lol:.
So I replaced my 2 sensors. (camshaft & oil pressure) Now I have a map sensor code popping up!!!! WTF?? I noticed my map sensor had some fluid (looked like a mixture of oil kinda) seepage. so I wire tied it down. Do you guys think that would set a code?? I do have a D1SC and I thought it was blowing out due to the blower. It was not out of the hole, but there was some signs of blow by around the sensor. Maybe some of you super charged guys can answer this question.
O yeah, forgot to mention, I replaced my eibach lowering springs and put the stockers (minus 1/2 coil) back in. The ride is so much better. I miss the look, but the ride is a lot nicer. My next move will be ridetech air ride.
I Just cleaned the LS1 V8 and engine bay again I never got a chance to do so after it came out of the paint shop
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just cleaned it up
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A dudes car I met at family dollar same color,same year,same corvette grand sport wheels we talked for a long time about TAs for a moment I thought his car was mine because I wasn't paying attention LoL!
Have to go offload ours from the trailer this evening. Sammie wants to have some of her senior pictures taken with the car so I'll be street driving it with the track wheels on Wednesday down to the location she selected.
put in the black stainless Pontiac inserts in, not sure if I like them. Makes the rear look a little busy. http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7704e998.jpg
they are black.
I had the same issue with some vinyl overlays for the "Pontiac" on the headlight. It looked grey. I had another set sent out...same problem. So I just pulled out my paint brush and with a very steady hand....got'er done!
BTW John....Looks nice, not too busy... my opinion :flex:
Drove around some at the Sturgis Bike Rally, won 2 Tee shirts for line loc'n it and grabbin a couple gears!
oh ya. got rid of my traction/cruise control stuff.http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps168c59ae.jpg
New motor mounts. Massive pain in the ass for the first time doing them. Pretty sure i learned a few tricks and can do it a lot quicker if had to do them again.
Just got a day off to start working in the fuel rail covers.
ordered more parts for the engine :sulk
They were off of a c5. Already had both cut outs for the fuel lines. From what I understand that is the 97-98, and then they changed to just one fuel line.
you'll need to trim the passenger side in the back some too.
Finally installed Hurst. Why did I wait so long?! Makes it feel like a totally different car. The way it should ..Haha
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Took mine out for a drive last nite in the cool MD air, and had some dude in a silver porsche carrera s rev at me. So I played along. We get on a nice open stretch on I97, I let him get the jump, then blew past him like he missed a shift or hit the brakes by mistake!! LOL. He got back next to me, rolled down his 5% tinted window, gave me a smile and thumbs up. Not bad for a $17k (mine) good ol' amer-can muscle!!
So much shorter. Grabbing 2nd gear has never been so easy.
Installed this 8" Bazooka, it's ported and sounds decent. also installed a 6.5" pyle sub in the r/s sail panel. I haven't had any speakers in the sails since I got the TA, my son was a toddler back then and I wanted to protect his lil ears. He rides up front with me now and I keep the cut-out closed and the tunes lower so I figured upgrading to a full system was due. Sort of feel like a poser with this sub but I get a kick out of it. Right now it's wired in as the l/s sail panel sub and running off the stock amp. Suprisingly it hits pretty decent, will probably add an aftermarket amp to power the two sail panel subs and the front door speakers whenever I get around to replacing the door speakers, will probably just wait till those give out since I'm content with how it sounds for now.
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Had no clue they made anything like that. :lol:
I had Bazookas in my Eagle Talon years ago -- they worked great.
Looks good.
I 1st read this and thought.."wtf is wrong with this guy? That's a NOS bottle." Then I noticed the speaker grille and the bass port on the bottom. I had a set of two 10" bazooka's in 1 of my old cars back in the day with a 300 watt amp. They sound really good and can be removed if you need the extra space. I did find a better sound from them if you face the sub to the rear, and move it about 7-10" away from any given wall so the sound can reflect. It will increase the bass twice as much. Just any fyi. Unstrap it any spin the baby and I bet it will sound better. Cool sub btw!
Thanks Ron, I tested out several different positions for this sub. Apparently the ideal position for this sub is facing a rear corner, I found that in the trunk space where the T-Tops are stored gives off the best sound. Of course I don't like the idea of not having anywhere to store my tops so up top was where it had to go. I tried out what you are suggesting but couldn't get it to work without getting rid of the divider. I also did not want the nozzle sticking over the seat, you can't tell but the line coming out of nozzle is the sub wiring. In the end having the sub facing to the left gives the driver the best overall sound, probably a combination of the 6.5" pyle sub in the l/s sail panel,(I know OP said r/s but I meant l/s), and the 8" sub facing into somewhat of a corner,(with the hatch closed and the divider in normal position). It's probably all in my head but I tried several different setups and this worked best. In the end my Lil Man in the passenger seat doesn't complain and that's what really matters.
[QUOTE=robcas47;2861156]Thanks Ron, I tested out several different positions for this sub. Apparently the ideal position for this sub is facing a rear corner, I found that in the trunk space where the T-Tops are stored gives off the best sound. Of course I don't like the idea of not having anywhere to store my tops so up top was where it had to go. I tried out what you are suggesting but couldn't get it to work without getting rid of the divider. I also did not want the nozzle sticking over the seat, you can't tell but the line coming out of nozzle is the sub wiring. In the end having the sub facing to the left gives the driver the best overall sound, probably a combination of the 6.5" pyle sub in the l/s sail panel,(I know OP said r/s but I meant l/s), and the 8" sub facing into somewhat of a corner,(with the hatch closed and the divider in normal position). It's probably all in my head but I tried several different setups and this worked best. In the end my Lil Man in the passenger seat doesn't complain and that's what really matters.[/QUOT
That's cool. I didn't know about the wiring getting in the way, and cosmetically it looks bad a$$. I made up a 12" sub box that sits in the same place yours is, because I also want to be able to store my t-tops so they don't get broken. I actually have my sub box facing the rear and painted the box a flat black so even when you try to look through the tinted rear window, you cant tell what is in there. It sticks up just a tad over the rear seat, so even from the front windshield, none is the wiser. That way the lil hood theives wont try and steal my stuff.
Try this. Custom box that fits in the rear corner. You can cut it to fit 12", but I had a 10" already so.....Sounds really good with 1000w behind it. Perfect spot for it.
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I thought about making a sub box for that spot!! I wouldn't go any bigger then a 10" sub though, not much box space for the 12" to breath. I also made up a board from mdf wood and mounted it below the latch for the hatch, then covered in the same color carpet of the trunk. Hide all the wiring behind the board for a nice custom look.
Years ago, I had a Kicker Solobaric sub mounted that way in an Eagle Talon. They hyped them for the small enclosures that could be utilized -- I think the catch phrase was "all the bass in half the space" or something like that.
I like the Stealth Box and had a couple 10" subs laying around but decided to go with the Bazooka sub mainly to try something different. I also wanted to use the stock amp for now and it pushes the 8" just fine for my liking. Very nice setup up Nutball
*whistles* There's a 4th one hidden under the box firing down..
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^^ Is that the '97?
was. I kept the box, but I believe it's since then been burnt. No big deal to build anything like that, though.
Cleaned up the engine bay after the body shop left it a mess.
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Hey, Ben. Do you have any more pictures of your car I can browse? I'm considering that color for my 78.
Hope these help. If you want something specific, let me know!
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Sharp car. Still don't know what I want! :nilly:
Man...I wonder if I didn't own a MRM 97 Formula...
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If you don't like showing your amp off to the world, you could always mount it under the latch between the tail lights. There's a support bar that runs between the lights that you can tie into. Here's what it looks like and there's enough room to still store your t-tops.
http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...ransAm/amp.jpg
And take the extra step to his the wires and use a utility knife to cut a slit for your wires to come out of.
Thanks to Ramey and UMI's outstanding customer service, replaced a bushing for rear sway bar( First one didn't fit quite right). fixed a rear axle seal on my Moser, and put in the new UMI adjustable torque arm, and torque arm relocation bracket.
^^ They are great guys to deal with!
I also had an axle seal leak on my Moser about 2 years after I installed the rear. 12 bolt or 9 inch?
12 bolt, this is the second seal here. first one went out in about 2 years as well. didn't realize though that the rear end has it's own LCA relocation brackets already on it from the factory. of course I realized this after I bought LCA relocation brackets for it
Didn't forget about you, Dave. Got the oil in the car changed and the head unit. Just need to wash her up still. Been a busy week with work. Soon.
Destroyed my fresh paint on the front end... http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1ffdbd24.jpg
spider webbed the paint on the rear bumper, pushed the exhaust in enough its rubbing on something and vibrating... http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...ps36c452c4.jpg
Guess that's what I get for being cocky! Lucky that's all I did! :brick:
Ouch...what happened?
Drifted around a curve, caught some dirt and went down off the road.
All on me!
Ouch!!! Sorry to see. :(
I feel your pain Ben. You know I'm speaking truth here. You've seen what I did to mine last month. :cry:
Last night I removed the hideous plastidip from the license plate filler. All except the bird.
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Looks much better.
Just got this done this morning. I'm happy happy with it.
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Wasn't hard at all. Just time consuming. Just do it slowly and don't be in a rush.
My whole front filler plate was plasti dipped. It took me about 3 hours to peel it off and edge around the "firebird" logo. But I did take a few 20-30 minute breaks to pound a few beers in between.
Looks much better than the whole thing dipped, you bought it with the that dipped right?
Installed some rear suspension upgrades. Founders on car adjustable LCA, LCA relocation brackets, on car adjustable PHB, adjustable TA and a UMI TA relocation crossmember. Think I have the pinion angle dialed in now I just have to center the rear with the PHB and LCAs.
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Replaced the melted stock fog lights with new halo fog lights... If you didn't already know, HID will melt the plastic.. :brick:
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