++ 3 on the LS6 valley cover :cheers:
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++ 3 on the LS6 valley cover :cheers:
Here's my quick fix. I used the silicon rubber ends of a spark plug wire. Not the prettiest but works great. Very heat resistant and will never get hard or rot.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...R%20two/in.jpghttp://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...%20two/out.jpg
@SMWS6TA Where did you get your T-Fitting? Everything that I find at AutoZone, O'Reilly, or Advance Auto Parts are much too small. I tried to fabricate my own "Y" connector about 5 months ago but it has since heated up and worn down and now I have a very high idle again.
Any direction on where you found t@he T-Fitting would be great!
I got mine @ O'Reilly. The counter guy pulled it from the back. I told him what I was doing and that it had to handle the heat and that is what he brought out.
I've moved passed this fix and have done the LS6 VCT mod. Comparing the cost of buying a new pcv line and doing the mod, the mod is about half in cost.
If you have anymore questions pm me.
i did this hose modification before i bought my valley cover. i used brass T fitting and rubber hose. It worked good and never say it rot or break. I got the brass T from lowes.
I just replaced my pcv valve and the hose that connects the housing to the intake. Mine had a hole in it.
I used the 1009 open orifice valve used in this writeup - I had previously had the variable orifice type in there that I had replaced a few years ago.
After putting the hoses back on and bolting the TB back on (I had to remove it to get the hose of the intake...It was stuck good!) The car is now running a little rough and smoking.
I reconnected everything back to the throttle body correctly...all I can think of is the different PCV valve?? Anyone else have this issue??
Is it idling rough or is it rough while you drive around also.
If you've been running around with a leaky PCV hose, the computer may have made some adjustment to compensate for that extra air. Maybe it take a few miles of driving to adjust back to normal.
Nice! I did the exact same thing a year ago and it solved so many issues. If you haven't already, might as well throw in a catch can. I put a lawn mower fuel filter in the line to see how bad blow-by was getting into the intake. It cut down on fouled plugs. Oh! Make sure the valve is back out of the way. Thought mine was until it caught the throttle at WOT!
It idled okay actually, but was rough as soon as I revved it. I didn't drive it around, just started it, noticed the roughness, and then saw the smoke when I got out to check under the hood. At that point I shut it down.
Maybe I just need to let it run longer or take it for a spin, so like you said, the comp can relearn.
Hi-
I'm helping hollg get her TA ready to sell, and this is what the diagnosis was, pcv hose leak, so I'm looking at this modification. Of course I've broken the brittle hose that runs to the back of the engine.
How do you get the whole assembly out? Does the whole fuel rail and other periferal stuff haveto come out? Does this require finding a little oriental lady with very tiny hands to get under the cowl to the back of the motor? What have I gotten into?? Please help??
Yes
The OEM PCV is connected in 3 stops and this will let you remove the (POS) OEM PCV
On the drivers side valve cover to the rear the PCV comes out of the cover - disconnect.
It wraps around the back side of the intake manifold and splits into a Y.
One part of the tube connects to the rear of the passenger side valve cover and the other continues around the intake where it connects to the PCV.
It continues off the PCV where it connects to the Throttle Body on the passenger side.
To reinstall just revers the directions above.
I bought some new Holley valve covers tha don't have a place to put a pcv valve in the driver side cover and only 1 elbow tube on the passenger side. Can I put a filter on the driver side tube and use just the 1 passenger side tube for the whole system?
Thanks for the write up! I was stumped as were many parts stores. Left me stumped and started the same process but the brass fitting was the key part!
THis is a great thread with great suggestions. I used the ideas and I think did one better. The "Y" at the back can be replaced with an item I found. It is light, and stainless steel and cheap! It is Stainless Steel Fitting Barb U-Bend 3/8" Coke part number 21136 It is for a coke soda fountain and I found it on ebay. 4 of them cost $6.00 It is easy to connect with a couple of pieces of 3/8 tranny hose. Fits great. Trying to figure out how to post a picture here. I will when I figure it out.
Yes ! That is it. I just cut back the platic tubes a little bit and coupled it with 3/8 tranny hose. The part is only 1 1/2 " wide and 3 in. long. You can also cut back the barbs some to make it shorter and yet have plenty to put the hose on with a clamp. Thanks for posting the pic!!.
Joe
Would this problem give me fumes inside the cabin?
No.