Thanks bro....
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Thanks bro....
Great write up, man.
Got a link to the work you did to the rear?
I'll do a pic write up....but man that rear end is not stock. We got the blow torches out a few times :)
Sarge - do you have a comprehensive list of all the suspension parts that you installed to fix the lazy steering (front & rear). Also, I don't see any of the pic's of your install. Thanks!
I see all the pics. Check your browser settings. I dunno....
Sure....in the front I replaced/upgraded the raidus rod bushings front and back, end link bushings, sway bar bushings and of course the strut bushings and bearings.
In the rear is the Harop Cover,Koni adjustables, all poly bushings,Pedders drag springs and this weekend I will be installing the Pedders Cross Member bushings. We have gone back to the "stock rear end" as the Ford rear end was a PITA and we just could not make it stay put. POS.....
Good write up. Take it from me you will like the cross member bushings. They take the slack out of the drive line and make the car flatter in the corners. Do the subframe connectors too. After mine were welded in, I wished I had done it before!!
Also, did you do the Ford 88 conversion, and did I hear you say it was a bad setup?? Please shed some light on that issue.
Sure man....should have said "gave up" is more accurate. The brackets and a pumpkin out of a 93 Cougar in the junk yard....then it turned into a cluster fuck over the CV/stubs. After awhile I just said fuck it....I'll let somebody else "discover" the complete kit.....the other problem I had was the brackets just never did fit right...or should I say I wasn't comfortable with them....I hear there are some 10 sec GTO's out there running the 8.8....but I haven't tracked them down to ask the questions...what do you know or have heard?
Yeah I got the cross member bushings changed out....your not going to believe this....for three years I have been running around with no top bushing from the factory....they didn't install the top part of the bushing.....so hell yes the new Pedders bushings made a huge difference....
I have not heard anything or read anything yet about 88 conversion performance whether via do it yourself or DSS kit. I read certain guys tried the conversion, but they have not posted any results. It certainly provides a variety of diffs and pinion sets that could improve ETs.
Get this, it has been said that the GTO OEM axle stubs fit into the 88 diff. Meaning they are of the same diameter and spline. The rub occurs when you attempt to bolt up the CV Shafts and find them too long because the 88 is wider than the OEM. I think the shafts could be shortened and rewelded correctly and with strength by a good DS shop. Thereafter, cryocvac the shaft for additional strength.
My thoughts are to purchase the hanger from DSS to avoid doing the engineering, and then install the GTO stubs and size up the shafts for trimming. I would of course take a stub to the yard or other scource for the 88 carrier, and check the fit before committing to the project. If the stubs fit, then it maybe a cheaper solution. Also, the shortened CV shaft will be stronger than stock if welded correctly.
I've seen a company in Australia working on a 9" pumpkin that uses 9" ford pinion/ring gears and posi/spool units. I'm sure that would be pretty stout.
Harrop has some quality bits in place for this application. There are good, but they are expensive....
I assuminmg this is on a 04 car,my 05 has none of these mods,factroy shit aint wore out ,not yet.I have drove a few 04 cars brakes sucked.nice write up.
Same suspension. Dont have to be "wore out"....this is a great modification.Quote:
Originally Posted by qwkgto
Hey Sarge, Great write-up. It helped me understand how to install these parts but I have one question. I keep reading this part over and over but can you make it simple which washers to install in what order?Quote:
Originally Posted by SargeTake off the 24mm nut in the center first. Sum bitch is on there so grow a set and get it broke loose. The remaining 4 13mm nuts come right off no problemo and the bushing will slide out. Grease the inside of the new bushing and the face and rear face. Slide the metal bushing into the new bushing center hole. Now comes the settings. Here is Pedders little "sheet" you get with the parts.
The consensus around the shop was the 8mm and 2mm in the rear and the 4 as the spare in front. Also the sports setting for the front bracket/washer...so that is what I did. There is a washer on the very back of the radius rod. So put your two size washers up against that. Then slide on the big washer from Pedders. Then your bushing. Then the bracket/washer. Then the spare sizing washer ( in my case the 4mm) Then the 24mm nut. I cleaned it all good and used locktite. The manual calls for 35lbs torque on the 4 13mm bolts and 109lbs on the 24mm. I hand snugged everything down and bounced the car a few times to settle it all in good...then torqued em all down. Repeat the process on the passenger side. This is the new bushing in before I put the 24mm nut on.....
Thanks
Sure...your spacer washers go behind ( towards the rear of the car) the big washer in the rear.
Thanks :yourock: The big washer toward the rear or front of the car?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
Ill subscribed to this for one day I WILL have a goat:) Great write up even tho ive had it bookmarked before..
OK...when you remove your original bushing you will have the radius rod sticking through a big hole in the frame. You put your big washer on first.Then your spacer (8mm/4mm etc) on. Then the bushing. Then the outer metal "brace" ( I use the sports setting).Quote:
Originally Posted by WS6ICK
OK got it, Thanks Sarge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
Hey Sarge i got an issue. I have the sway bar and RR bushings. When i was changing my tire the other day i noticed the end link on the driver side was completely off!! It was just hangin there. So im assuming the nut backed out for whatever reason. Well i got a nut and tried to reinstall it and the threaded stud at the knuckle is just free spinning. Im guessing my best bet is to go ahead and buy the complete end links from Pedders huh?
