I have used them both, I like the Rodney Dickman kit the best...
Printable View
Dickmans kit comes with a lot of nice stuff!!!!!
I'd go with dickmans or if not, at least buy the brace to help hold the pieces that you have to epoxy on better. I went with Frankers, that was before i came across dickman's and ended up losing one of those plastic pieces, so after searching for a while, found an individual with one he could spare. Paid for the braces and redid both. Feel much more comfortable knowing it won't be coming off again.
Thanks for posting this! I did the 180 degree turn and it worked like a charm. I wanted to add that the quick fix for this (if it happens when you are away from your 10mm socket) is to remove the two 15 amp headlight fuses that are located under the hood by the driver's wheelwell. That way at least your lights won't pop up when you unlock your doors. Just remember that if you have to use your lights then you need to put the fuses back in to make them work.
Josh G.
man this is great have had that prob for years, NOONE has been able to tell my why, they even replaced my alarm ,
Dickmans brass gear will live longer than you. Never have to mess with it again.
good writeup, but one question
why when i set the alarm sometimes the headlights go up and then down again in one motion, what would this be caused from?
That can also be caused by the same situation. When my gear wore out the lights would do that with the alarm too. Do your lights also come on when just your park lights are supposed to be on?
Good to know
hey
thanks for the reply the 180 turn worked for now!
still gonna order the brass ones do
greeting barry
Mine just started to act up, I'll be ordering some brass gears.
replaced one motor and did 180 turn on other one. fine now.
does the motor for the headlights need power when its going up and down,i replaced the gear and a month later the engine stopped working
FWIW, I went thru this gear change B/S twice, third time I just got a new motor off eBay for under $100, best $ I ever spent, cant wait for the other side to start acting up, going straight to another new motor, problem solved for at least 10 yrs.
Ok i have new head light assemblies and today i unlocked my doors and the head lights came up and went down new factory gm assemblies 2 weeks old wtf!!!!
Ok so I didnt thank that those headlights were suppose to make that sound. So the quick fix is to rotate the manual up down adjustment clockwise 180 degrees and it will fix this horriable sound??? Is this done with the headlights in the closed position since Im new to the T/A family? Thanks :drivin::drivin:
Hey everyone,
I'm in the middle of removing the motor, however I can't figure out how to remove the wiring that runs into a connection. It's obvious I can't remove it from the motor.
Anyone have a suggestion or can point me to a video where I can see how to remove it so I can pull the motor out?
Thanks.
SA
did you ever find out if changing the battery possibly fixed this issue?? i am having the same problem. passenger headlight doesnt move at all, no sound coming from the motor at all, but drivers works fine. i think i have a dead cell in my battery and need to replace it anyway, but if i need to get a headlight motor, might as well get it at same time. or would someone suggest that i try the battery first since it needs to be replaced anyway?? open to suggestions :shrug:
Hey EleventHour,
Does the other headlight lift & close without issue? If I remember correctly, it it no longer goes up or down it's because the motor has stopped working. It could be a couple of things, and I'm sure someone can/will correct me if I'm wrong...
I would think it could be the motor and / or gear inside the motor or the electric connection to the motor may have gone bad or disconnected. Personally, I'd say check the motor/gear first. That's me though.
Good luck.
SA :cool: