do you know if they are square tubing?
do you know if they are square tubing?
Sqaure = boxed
BMR is the way to go!
slp and umi both have dimond sfc or 3 point sfc... i would pick umi cheeper and great quality...www.umiperformance.com/ hear is there page
sweet link man thanks
I was wondering if SLP 3 point - subframe connectors (welded in) will cause any problems later on, as far as maintenance and acccess to certain areas under the vehicle. I have heard that they will have to be cut out if you ever replace the transmission.
JR
i know that it makes it harder to remove the trans w/ a 3point but you do not have to cut out the sfc to remove the trans.... justv wiggle it a-bit...lol mark
back to the the hole round over boxed tubing. this is a simple ex: of why round tubing is stronger than boxed. have you ever seen a large bridge with square pillars that didnt have a rounded center pillar to hold the mass weight? the corners would provide a pressure point for the weight it's holding and that would leave a weak spot. unlike a round pillar which would equally divide weight throught out the pillar. in this case to a much smaller scale.
Why did most motorcycles and 4 wheelers go from round tubing to boxed?
Boxed=better IMO
Straight from LMPerformance.com :
Which one do I choose? - While you can't go wrong with either design, use the following to determine your order: If strength is your number one priority, choose the boxed design. Boxed tubing is torsionally stronger than round tubing however you will lose approximately 3/4" of ground clearance when using this style. If your car is lowered and ground clearance is the prime concern, go with the tubular model. While round tubing is not as strong torsionally, there are other features to these subframe connectors that make them more rigid than most other tubular models available.
I second that I still feel that boxed style is more rigid then round.
in a subframe connector boxed is better, not because it is stronger, but because it is easier to weld the full length of the conn. to the floor of your car.
the bending strength of tubing is much higher than square, however torsionally (or twisting ike wringing out a towel) boxed is stronger. everything is going tubular now even hydroformed frames from the factorynot exactly round, but "rounded"). the torsional stress placed on the body of your car is greatly minimized once the subs are connected in any way, and the difference between the two types is negligable(if they are welded only at the attatchment points), however boxed is a lot easier to weld to a flat floor surface over its entire length than tubing, making a "fully" welded boxed sub conn. stronger in the end.
p.s. tubular looks way better though imo!
oopsQuote:
Originally Posted by NeeD4SpeeD
I just talked to a guy from SLP that told me the 3 point Bolt ins are just as good as the weld ins -for everyday driving (non track racing conditions).
He said that with the weld ins you actually have to mess with the interior of the car upon installation to make sure nothing gets burned or catches on fire. He also said numerous times that there is NO difference regardless of rumor, about the Weld ins being stronger than bolt ins when the bolt ins are installed correctly and that the weld in seal could rust after many years of use. He kinda made it seem like the weld ins are simply "Overkill" for everyday driving.
Just thought Id throw that info out there. I was torn between the two options awhile back but now I think I'll just go with the bolt ins(which are also powdercoated) What do you guys think???
JR.
I have a set of SLP bolt ins. 1 problem: The bolt holes dont line up with the bolts they are suppose to on the frame! Im tempted to just bolt up to the tunnelbrace bolts, then weld in the front and back points. That or plug weld the bolt holes on the SFCs and re-drill.:rock:
i am not a supporter of slp, and this is not to bash them either. i just make my own products:usa:!!! but a bolt in sfc will only fit about 8-9 times out of ten due to the factory tollerance from gm. there can be up to 1/8 in. tollerance, and the car will still pass quality control so its not slp's fault, but when you mass produce something in a jig, its not always gonna fit every app. weld in's are usually easier since 1/8 or 1/16th inch off wont affect any factory bolt hole locations if your just gonna weld them up anyways!
cheers!
another option that I think is a good one is something I haven't heard anyone mention thus far. I know a guy that bought a set of bolt in SLP SFC's which he then installed and then welded in aswell. Seems like a pretty safe way of doing it in my opinion. He also got exactly what I think I'm going to the SLP three point boxed.
Has anyone heard of people experiencing problems with thier weld ins??
Also what kind of local shop could I trust to do a good job welding these things in?? I am going to order them today, so any info would be greatly appreciated.
personally I've never heard bad things about weld-ins, I know a lot of guys that have done it. I think thats probably what I'm going to do... I might get bolt ons and then weld them in aswell... but I haven't decided.
I have the bolt-in SLP 3-point SFC's. I had a problem bolting them in since the bolt holes didn't line up. I grinded the holes bigger and sprayed some black primer over the bare metal and bolted them up. I felt a difference, especially going up my driveway and over speed bumps and such. I also like how they look from afar, when you can see them hanging a little under the car. gives a more powerful-strong look. I saw a red SS convertible a few days ago in a parking lot, and it didn't have SFC's. looked like it was missing something to me in the overall look of the car.
Nice car Bluefield!!! Love it!!