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It's all good!!:lmao: Not like im gunna cry or n e thing :cry: lol Nah im a clown my self and i know you guyz are concerned 4 the car and i definatly respect that and everyone is entilted to their own opinion as well am i so laugh it up!!!:lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:
What you are describing is NOT normal, couple things come to mind:
- misfire on 1 cylinder, ie bad plug, or wire
- fuel filter
- failing/plugged cat
running the car like that puts an enormous load on the engine and all it's supporting systems. Maybe your pothole broke up a cat (inside), or you have a fouled plug or bad wire. I sometimes do use real high gears at low speeds, the car should be smooth at 40mph in 6th gear with factory gearing.
Dude-do you go wide open throttle at 30 mph in 6 th gear also?Did you read any of this stuff?Pleez stop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
No i didnt do that..... I'm not that crazy...yea i gave it some gas but not full wide open throttle...
OKKKK.... Problem seems to be getting worse now i decided to open the car up in 1st gear and in high RPM i get the exact same problem.... Exhaust backfire, shifter going krazy and car jerking!!! Feels as if i'm loosing some power i dont know what the problem could be... A misfire on a cylinder??? Maybe a bad plug or wire? I think that might be possible...
I did buy a whole fuel system cleaner just incase i had a bad batch of gas and the injectors needed to be cleaned but i doubt thatt the prob! I mean now that it's happening in 1st gear going up the RPM range now i know theres something wrong and i didnt just bog the engine...
You dont think it's anything wrong with the internals do you??
I did order the O2 Sims for the true duals but i know that has nothing to do with it unless for some reason something caused the air/fuel ratio to get all screwed up because i checked and i believe its running lean but i need to check again...
Please anyone any ideas on what the problem could be?
Sounds like spark. Pull the codes to see which cylinder, check plugs and wires. If they're fine, check the coil. If that's fine....maybe it's not spark.
I had the same problem with a different car, baffled me for the longest time because the problem kept causing other problems, which distracted me from the real problem. Turned out to be a bad coil.
:think: These cars are perfectly capable of cruising around town all day at 1000 rpm, and you know what, the amount of gas that saves is phenomenal. The point I was making is that under those conditions of high load, low engine speed, a driveability problem will be exagerated and may show up before you see it in aQuote:
Originally Posted by 02z28ls1
"more normal" low load situation.
Obviously I am NOT crazy as Need4Speed's problem is getting worse. I stand by my statements. The car should be smooth, just not very responsive under those conditions.
Could be spark, could be fuel, could be exhaust. All of those things would cause his problems. A dead cylinder will definitely give him the vibration he is talking about. Plugs, wires, coil packs should all be checked. A plugged up cat would definitely cause these problems too, and I point that out only because he mentioned bottoming out the car just before this happened.
Slow down a minute and reread the first post-he's doing 35 in 6th gear and he floors it.I repeat-your nuts if you drive a car like this -like that.If you want better gas mileage get a rice car-if you want to lug a motor like that drive a tractor.This is not a diesel engine-don't drive it like that.If you don't get this I'm not going to be able to explain it to you-you don't understand what's going on.Notice how his description of the problem has changed-now he has a problem-but did the problem start after he lugged the shit outta his motor,could be.You can't diagnose this over the internet-codes need to be read -stuff needs to be checked.Convertors rattle if they are breakin up internally and you will have a choking effect on the exhaust-it will set a code also.What kind of things would happen from lugging the motor?Detonation could screw up the spark plugs for example-lugging the motor damages the engine bearings also.The electronics will try to limit the damage by pulling out timing and the knock sensors in particular will be your best friend here but why not drive it different ?Gas mileage-not what you are concerned with at WOT!At 35 downshift to 3 or 4 if you want to gun it-it has to do with the characteristics and design of this motor and gas engines in general.I'm not going to try this to find out but I'm betting it was not running at 1100 rpm at 35 mph in 6th gear-I believe it was at idle speed or less.Gas engines need rpm to avoid damaging stuff.Again-6 th gear doesn't need to be used below 60 mph and if you want to accelerate at all-Downshift!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 345hpss
I would say that it could be a cat but i dont have any..... I have a true dual system with no cats. I'm going to check all the wires today and the sparks if i can get them out to see if anything is wrong.
02z28ls1 It was a one time thing with what i did... I understand your point of view and i will definatly downshift next time as well as i respect your point of view comming for a mechanic.
But what is goign on now with the car, i have no idea!!! I really dont want to have to rip the block apart and search for a problem. I hope its on the surface such as the wires or something. Like i said before i did order the O2 Sims for the car but wont have them till wed but i wouldnt think that would cause that problem unless maybe one of the O2's going into the headers is bad??
This shit is driving me crazy because im loosing power and car feels like crap and i hope its something simple....
I know-we already talked about it need4speed-I was mainly talking to 345hpss.If you bumped up the hp then drive it like the high performance car it is-they really are magnificant beasts IMHO-dont drive it like a plowhorse.Yes you do have a prob now-you can rule out exhaust then easily by looking under the car-it would have to be smashed shut to be affecting you like that.Go to the genuises at Auto Calzone and get your codes read if you can-that'll be a good start.
Yea i know i really need to do that.. Well i know that one of our sponsors is really close to me which is TTPerformance because i live in New York. And i know they are very good with the LS1 engine. So come tommrow i'll stop by them and have them read into the codes to see what the problem is. opefully it wont cost me much because i was planning of doing christmas shopping for myself eairly this year but i hope i wont have to wait.
I did check the exhaust out and it's in perfect condition, not bent or anything so i say we can rule that out...
Bought fuel system treatment just incase it a fuel problem b/c i want to cover all angles here...
And was thinking about buying new wires and sparks just to have an excuse to do them eairly....
But i think i'm going to do what you said and go ahve the codes checked out to determine what is definatly the problem!!!
one time my car did what your discribing and it turned out to be a loose plug wire that was arching at high rpm check you plug wires
LOL funny you say that because thats what i did eairlier and thats was exactly the prublem!!!! Stupid wire wasnt on all the way and i was jumping sparks!!! Go figure....Quote:
Originally Posted by 02 Blk T/A WS6
Well i just wanted to say thank you to everyone for all your suggestions and opinions and that i'm glasd it wasnt anything serious!!!!:beer3:
Thanks everyone again 4 your help!!!:beer:
Kool-all's well that ends well!!I just wanted to say something in closing(I can't let things go!haha) These engines will set a code for misfire and even tell you what cylinder.As complicated as these engines can be-most of the time stick to the basics when diagnosing these things and you can find 90% of the problems yourself.Finally-last nite I was on the hiway going 70 mph in 6th gear and that was 1600 rpm.Take half of that-35 mph is 800 rpm -idle speed-in double overdrive---anybody still think this is a good idea?(If you do please keep it to yourself):usa: