damn urinal mint, you have 3 posts on this board, with all three in this very thread.
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damn urinal mint, you have 3 posts on this board, with all three in this very thread.
if it where me i would ditch the 4l60e for a 700r4 if you want the od or 400 if you dont need od and if youall are going thru tranys left and right you might think about not going cheap and just spending the cash lots of trany shops say they rebuild them but in reality they just slam bam $400 kit later and charge you $600 and they dont know shit about why it went out. food for thought
1- torque drive hardened input shaft and drum
2- beast sun shell comes with above
3-machined reverse input drum
4- wide redlined not kevlar band with reinforced band pin area
5-raybestos z pack for the 3-4 clutch far superior to the 9 friction
6-4 which is stock or five pinion planets either works as well the planets didnt break where the gears were anyway they generally all die from lack of lube and in 20 years of building performance 700r4 and 4l60e trannys i have only seen three break at the bottom where output shaft come through and the 4 and 5 pinons are exactly the same there, in anycase the sun gears should be notched for better lube
7-high energy raybestos frictions in the forward clutch
8 -other clucth parts are stock
9-replace the low roller clutch with new
10-replace the input sprag with a 29 element unit
11- large 500 boost valve in pump and lube mod
12-10 vane pump interior provideds higher volume than the 13 v
13-fairbanks super servo for second
14 -sonax super servo for 4th
15- turn preasure control center torx bit 3/8 inch to increase line ,
16 - shift kit , but do not use any kit that disables the accumulators you do not want slamming shifts at all times rather progressivly harder shifts as the throttle is increased, actually increasing the size of certain feed holes is more than adequate from all i have seen with the super servos and z pack it kicks pretty hard under throttle more than some people want or like .
17-proper programing for the tc and rear ratio you are running
560 rwhp is based on a supercharged impala ss on a chasis dyno . transmission has been in service for aprox a year so far with regular visits to the track , chasis dyno is about as rough as you can get on a tranny .
just my two cents
megamax
I Agree With Zboner Just Put A Six Speed In And Be Done With It They're More Fun And They're Tuffer, Unless You Like An Auto , The Only Prob Is It Costs More To Get A Good Tuff Auto Into A Car Like A Camaro Or Anything For That Matter Think!
You just end up trading one problem for another. Ya, the six speed will last longer, because the clutch and the rear end take all the abuse. I've been that road, and it ends up costing more, especially after the conversion cost.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000b4c
Yep...
An LS2 flywheel, an LS7 clutch and plate, a clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder ... all GM parts ( hydraulics cause the line was laying on the rear header tube) can get over $1500.00 after labor. I have done a few this year.
It is not hard at all to blow out a clutch and plate if you do not know how to manage the power getting to 'em.
Rear axles get hammered regardless of auto or manual.
People do not like the 4l60e because there are really only a few builders who do them well and second everyones allways looking for a deal , and really to build a 4l60e right isnt cheap , they are a very tough trans i have seen them run at the strip and on a chasis dyno at 700hp and thats the worse abuse you really can do and never miss a lick , now if your talking like most your local tranny shop they put in a 45 dollar kit and a 7 dollar band and filter and your right though for everyday driving that would be fine put real power and a different story, of note ever wonder why the stock tranny mader it 60 70 thousand and more miles and yet the stock rebuild lasted three months , its simple youir engine is presently even with no mods making between 30 and 50 percent more hp and torque than it did the day it was brand new , you want a good auto 4l60e then get one and oput it in your self there are pleanty of vendors out there who can help you out and not disapoint ,
can you get it in a couple days like your local shop PROBABLY NOT ! but its worth the wait to get a real performance 4l60e
megamax
Couldn't have said it better Megamax... the engine boys we are working wirh have set out to modify the tune in the unit we installed for them recently... they love the car again! We made a few adjustments to our new 60 after installing it and running it for a few days... after that I cut them loose to lean on it. I came in Monday and the driver was smiling ear to ear.
They were very dissapointed in the last 3 units built by a transmission builder who campaigns his own car... (since Jan. this year) and were begging for a 400. We talked them into letting us have a go at it.The most recent "performance" trans out of this very mildF body roasted 4th. It was less than 1 month old. We dissasembled it and found that it had the obligatory Beast shell, a shift kit that we could not identify, a double cage sprag, high energy clutches and thats about it. This was very identical to what we see out there... sloppy fits on the bushings, no real noticeable change in the pump and other than the v/b kit, no hydraulic system massage best we could tell.
I agree totally... it is a good unit in the hands of a seasoned professional who "gets it".
it about time that someone makes sence with trannys i try to tell people that all the time but they want a $500 trany thats going to hold 700 ponys i dint think so. so you can spend the money right now and do it right or you can spend $500 2 or 3 times and could have bought the good for what you have into them 3.
Yep, but it only takes one jackass valet/ or any other moron who gets to drive your car about an hr to ruin your clutch in a manual tranny, vs the auto's are harder to tear up with their punching it and so on.........unless they decide to put it in reverse or low gear while doin' 80mph.Quote:
Originally Posted by MysticBowtie
If you want an overdrive get a 4L80 and be done with it. Its in essense a 400 with overdrive anyhow. A 700 is just a non electronic 4L60 so stay away from it too. I agree with most of what Megamax said especially with the planetaries. I've seen more broken input shafts (supposedly hardened) and cracked drums than I have planetaries due to power. Some get lucky with their 4L60's but no matter what all parts you put in it the input drum assembly is still going to be a big weak spot. Theres a band-aid steel pressed on ring that helps some but it's still a band-aid. Get the 4L80 that stock can take more than many "built" 4L60's. With as many as I have seen destroyed I have no faith in them. I got all the parts in mine equivalent to a Raptor, level 4, or other "600+" rated 4L60E's transmissions and then some but when I get to that magical 500+ RWP its comming out especially when I start spraying 200 or more.