will dropping the top strut mounts f-up my alignment?
Printable View
will dropping the top strut mounts f-up my alignment?
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfin
Yes you'll need to raise it up enough to be able to maneuver around under there.
No. Jeff came up with a method of supporting the engine while dropping the K member. hopefully he can post a picQuote:
Originally Posted by johnfin
Yes. You need it up in the air. The cradle can be dropped and slid out of the way if everything is disconnected. In a nutshell that would be the front wheels, lower ball joints, lower strut mounts, steering coupler, P/S hoses, motor mounts, any wire harness connectors (such as ABS), and the four bolts that attach the K-member to the vehicle. Probably missing several things, but it has been a few years since I dropped mine. The thread linked in Post #7 above has lots of pics.
jeff, is it manditory to remove all that crap. need it quick and easy like my women.factory manual just says disconnect lower shocks to a-arms. does say 2002 cars are different for some reason. question is will the cradle drop far enough in back with bolts removed, front two loose, nothing disconnected.
also, when changing the gasket, are you in front on the car. not too excited crawling under a car on jacks
Will is currently trying to get his K member back in, I asked him to pop in here and give you some pointers.
took a look at the oil pan job. steering linkage looks tough to get at. i hate these jack stands. the ends dont really fit the frame rails and i cant decide if i should leave the rears on ramps.
You'll want all the room you can get and having the car level makes things easier imo. Just be safe.
how and where do you loosen the steering shaft
At the rack & pinon.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfin
Looks hard to get at. Is it best to loosen the 4 lower motor mount bolts or the single upper bolt. I will put 2x4 in there to keep it from falling.
Also, any change of braking off the oil sending unit or anything back there while jacking it up.
I looked at it tonight. Not sure out the rear of the pan will drop far enough to clear the bellhousing.
THE OPSU and MAP Sensor might be best to remove.
There is room to remove the oil pan without removing the BH. Make sure when you torque down the pan pay attention the the torque settings. Those long rear bolts are a different setting the short bolts for the reset of the pan.
so pull the intake...AGAIN??? no thanks
It will give you a few more inches of lifting. If you don't pull them just be mindful of how much you lift the block up.
iam thinking of using the 2 forward bolts in the head for lifting the engine up. anyone know the size of those bolts?
I can't help you there. I had it in short block reinstalling mine so I used the head bolts.
Now I know why not very many people have done this job: Its a bear. Was going good until time for the motor mounts. The manual says remove the 4 bolts on each side. Good luck getting at those. And the upper bolts.....they wont come out unless you remove the a/c and alternator. uggg.
It is a bit of a chore.
Used the 10 ton jacks (only way to go, 5" flat saddle, dont use curved top Chinese junk) . Interesting that the front frame rails are near the CG. When put on jacks, rear end came up and car is level but still on rear ramps. Now its safe to remove the oil pan.
Weight distribution front to rear on our cars is not terrible. Probably why you do not normally see F-bodies taking out bystanders on the intrawebs. :rolleyes: