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11-30-2012, 03:23 AM
pajeff02

If you pull the heads, which it sounds like you are doing, make darn certain to get all the coolant out of the head bolt holes before reassembly. You can actually crack your block installing the heads if there is still coolant in the holes.
11-30-2012, 06:10 AM
Firebirdjones

All that work, I certainly wouldn't put that back together without a new set of heads and cam. Did you break that to your wife yet? :D
11-30-2012, 06:23 AM
SMWS6TA

sometimes it's just better to not ask......:whistle:
12-02-2012, 10:17 AM
SMWS6TA

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

To check and remove the lifters the procedure is this:
1. Remove airbox,intake,and tb.
2. Remove coil packs and valve covers .
3. Loosen rocker arms and remove push rods.
4. Remove all the header bolts.
5. Remove the small 10mm bolts at the top of the heads and the 15mm bolts inside and on the outside near the header bolts.
6. Remove the 3 15mm bolts on the back of the heads for the transmission dipstick and grounding wires.
7. Remove heads.
8. Remove lifter trays with a 8mm socket (I think).
9. Use pliers to grip the outside of the lifters and pull out and check them. If all looks good push them back in.
10. Repeat the steps in reverse.

Keep in mind you will need new head gaskets and head bolts.

It is not worth it unless you are replacing stuff.

One step left off.....take power steering reservoir off the drivers head....

passenger head off, what a mother :cuss: it is to break the head bolts free.
12-02-2012, 10:21 AM
SMWS6TA

now dumb question....how do I check the lifters to see if they are bad?
12-02-2012, 10:32 AM
98TransAmWs-6

Quote:

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

To check and remove the lifters the procedure is this:
1. Remove airbox,intake,and tb.
2. Remove coil packs and valve covers .
3. Loosen rocker arms and remove push rods.
4. Remove all the header bolts.
5. Remove the small 10mm bolts at the top of the heads and the 15mm bolts inside and on the outside near the header bolts.
6. Remove the 3 15mm bolts on the back of the heads for the transmission dipstick and grounding wires.
7. Remove heads.
8. Remove lifter trays with a 8mm socket (I think).
9. Use pliers to grip the outside of the lifters and pull out and check them. If all looks good push them back in.
10. Repeat the steps in reverse.

Keep in mind you will need new head gaskets and head bolts.

It is not worth it unless you are replacing stuff.

One step left off.....take power steering reservoir off the drivers head....

passenger head off, what a mother :cuss: it is to break the head bolts free.

Oh yeah lol I got ahead of myself. I was doing this from memory since my heads are off atm. I used a torque wrench at the highest setting to break the bolts free and they came off easy. I cannot answer the question on checking them except for looking then over for obvious damage. Like listening for loose components within.
12-02-2012, 10:37 AM
SMWS6TA

I was just poking fun at you....I got ready to get the last of the header bolts off when I looked at the PS pump and realized it had to come off the head.

So I just got back from renting a puller.
12-02-2012, 10:47 AM
98TransAmWs-6

Quote:

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

I was just poking fun at you....I got ready to get the last of the header bolts off when I looked at the PS pump and realized it had to come off the head.

So I just got back from renting a puller.

You don't need a puller btw. I didn't use one. The bolts will come out of the bracket without removing the pulley.
12-02-2012, 10:48 AM
Smittro

Just be glad at least you LS1 guys have some of your engine that's not under the cowl. It's even MORE fun for the v6 guys because the entire engine is under the cowl LMAO! By the time you get down fooling around under there you are bleeding up to your elbows and wishing humans could remove an eyeball to look at all the bolts behind the head in the 1-1/2 space between the firewall and engine..:lol: Extension then swivel, extension swivel, extension, then oops SOB half of it falls apart and is now under the car..:rant: :lol:
12-02-2012, 11:56 AM
tatertot91

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

I used a torque wrench at the highest setting to break the bolts free and they came off easy.

I'd recommend a breaker bar for those, I would never suggest using a torque wrench to remove bolts that are that tight. Just wanted to throw that out there.
12-02-2012, 01:42 PM
SMWS6TA

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

You don't need a puller btw. I didn't use one. The bolts will come out of the bracket without removing the pulley.

It only took 5 mins to get it off. I'm tired of fooling around with impossible angles to get a bolt loose.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smittro

Just be glad at least you LS1 guys have some of your engine that's not under the cowl. It's even MORE fun for the v6 guys because the entire engine is under the cowl LMAO! By the time you get down fooling around under there you are bleeding up to your elbows and wishing humans could remove an eyeball to look at all the bolts behind the head in the 1-1/2 space between the firewall and engine..:lol: Extension then swivel, extension swivel, extension, then oops SOB half of it falls apart and is now under the car..:rant: :lol:

I think it was written down somewhere long time ago that any one that is going to work on his car must pay a lb of flesh and a gallon of blood per item of work regardless if it is all for the same job. I want to punch that guy.

I've had my V6 fun too. I told myself If I was going to work this hard again it better be for a V8! :flex:

Quote:

Originally Posted by tatertot91

I'd recommend a breaker bar for those, I would never suggest using a torque wrench to remove bolts that are that tight. Just wanted to throw that out there.

Agree, I'd never risk a torque wrench ever for anything other then its purpose. Cost too damn much. I understand you got use what you have.

Tater - funny you mention that, it just made my Christmas list. Seems damn gremlins walk off with mine. I resorted to using a long extension and a socket to fit over my ratchet and use it like a breaker bar.

I took some pics that I'll throw up later but for now it's time for :food: and guess who is suppose to cook.
12-02-2012, 03:14 PM
SMWS6TA

Here's some pics....

http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...m/IMAG0743.jpg

Any suggestions on how to clean off graphite gaskets off besides razor & wire brush?

http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...m/IMAG0751.jpg

Same here how to clean the piston top? A lot of burn oil......from the years. I think this was from the OEM PCV. The LS1 intake I had look like this when I swapped it out for a LS6.

http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...m/IMAG0756.jpg

http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...m/IMAG0754.jpg

http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...m/IMAG0758.jpg

Yeah it's like that some times.......

http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...m/IMAG0753.jpg
12-02-2012, 03:23 PM
Firebirdjones

Yikes. I'd be dropping that whole mess out the bottom on the K-member and save my skin :lol:

I've always used a wire brush with a neumatic air tool on the tops of the pistons, and rotate each piston to the top, then vacuum any remaining debree from around the piston with the shop vac, and wipe out the cylinder walls as I go along and each piston goes through it's cycle.

Have to be carefull around the aluminum block however, I'd probably mask that off around each piston just as a precaution. As far as cleaning the block/head surface, that's alot of carefull scraping along with shop rags and solvent like brake clean or laquer thinner. Might be able to get away with a very fine wire brush or a mild scotch brite pad on the tougher areas if you are carefull.
12-02-2012, 03:33 PM
98TransAmWs-6

I used this tool called the super scraper. It took off the gaskets effortlessly. It won't scratch the block at all.

http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/x...6/DSCN5780.jpg
12-02-2012, 03:40 PM
98TransAmWs-6

Question though on a related note, I have ARP thread chasers in the correct size for the block but they are square heads are there any attachments so I can use a ratchet or a separate tool to thread it in and out of the block?
12-02-2012, 03:45 PM
Cutlass

Quote:

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

now dumb question....how do I check the lifters to see if they are bad?

You really can't. You can try pushing on them to see if they collapse easy and look at them for usual wear. Other then that, you supposed to diagnose a noisy valve train before you tear it down, then just replace them.
Wire brush is a BIG no-no to clean the block or head surface.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

I used this tool called the super scraper. It took off the gaskets effortlessly. It won't scratch the block at all.

Excellent tool! I have one and it works awesome. It won't scratch the block 99% of the time but definitely can if used improperly.
12-02-2012, 03:47 PM
Cutlass

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

Question though on a related note, I have ARP thread chasers in the correct size for the block but they are square heads are there any attachments so I can use a ratchet or a separate tool to thread it in and out of the block?

tap sockets are square. 8 point sockets work also. In a pinch, find a 12 point socket they sorta fits and use that.
12-03-2012, 06:58 AM
SMWS6TA

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

I used this tool called the super scraper. It took off the gaskets effortlessly. It won't scratch the block at all.

do you remember where did you got it?

Two more questions:

1) Where can you get thread chasers besides Summit? Everyone wants to sell me tap & die.

2) Graphite vs MLS head gaskets, 98-01 came with graphite but 02-04 yrs have MLS. Which one is better for me to get?
12-03-2012, 08:41 AM
98TransAmWs-6

Quote:

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

I used this tool called the super scraper. It took off the gaskets effortlessly. It won't scratch the block at all.

do you remember where did you got it?

Two more questions:

1) Where can you get thread chasers besides Summit? Everyone wants to sell me tap & die.

2) Graphite vs MLS head gaskets, 98-01 came with graphite but 02-04 yrs have MLS. Which one is better for me to get?

I got it off eBay from racnprts , I will post the link in a sec. Hmm I could find it on amazon for more. I paid $37 for it but here is the link I found: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009RMAHK/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1354557065&sr=8-9&pi=SL75

If you search "super scraper" or similar you might find it else where for cheaper.

I found that even places that do sell the same arp thread chasers they were the same price as jegs and summit. Although I have another option for you I could send you mine to use after I clean the threads tonight.

I am using MLS gaskets because graphite gaskets are a pain in the ass to get off if you have to take the heads off again and what not. Well, that and I am swapping on 243 heads and I heard they seal better (the MLS gaskets that is), I am not sure how true that is though.
12-03-2012, 06:07 PM
Cutlass

MLS gaskets require a smoother surface to properly seal. If you head and block haven't been machined smooth enough you might have some sealing issues.

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