Broken hood release cable. How to pop hood?

Found it. Cracked radiator. :(

here are some pics:

hood open:
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC02941.jpg

hood latch release - top view:
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC02942.jpg

front bumper and black should retainer clips need to be pulled to gain access. also remove the 10mm bolts that
hold the front inner splash guards and the first (2) that attach it to the air dam as well
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC02944.jpg

this is where you will need to blindly feel around for the latch release (or in my case the
hood release cable), to then release it
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC02943.jpg

cracked radiator, which leaks, runs down the core support and gives me the (2) puddles you see.
happy its not the water pump/hoses, all that stuff was bone dry baby!!!
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC02945.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC02946.jpg

and just for you PAJeff, I told you I would take pics of the clearance of my exhaust (from another thread I cant find it now)...:D

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC02947.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC02948.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SSwt00SS

I can smell the coolant on the passenger side but after 20 minutes of running in 100+ dgree weather in the garage, no leaks. Nothing. Before you could see an ever so small puddle...:confused:

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Coolant leaks at hose junctions and such are more prevalent when things are cold versus heated up. Just about every leak I have ever had on a car would weep when cold and then stop when hot -- even with the added pressure in the cooling system. Go figure. I see that you found your leak after I jumped to the next page.

That is L-O-W! No way I could even think about driving that car around here on our roads. :no:

Yeah that looks a couple inches lower than mine and I am lowered. Are you lowered as well SS?

Good to hear you were able to pop the hood. Takes me back to when I had to replace a fog light assembly on a 95 T/A. MAN...was that a BITCH!! That car looks CLEAN!!! What exhaust is that? SLP terminating before the rear axle?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

Yeah that looks a couple inches lower than mine and I am lowered. Are you lowered as well SS?

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yes, i have the Eibach Pro-kit

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cammed goat

Good to hear you were able to pop the hood. Takes me back to when I had to replace a fog light assembly on a 95 T/A. MAN...was that a BITCH!! That car looks CLEAN!!! What exhaust is that? SLP terminating before the rear axle?

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the exhaust on the SS: XS stainless steel LT's, into a TSP true dual setup, with dual SLP LM resonators terminating before the rear axle. from behind it looks awesome. two black holes inches off the ground...:cool:

im wondering if i should fix it right and just get a new one, or see if JB Weld might do the trick.

personally, i'm a replace it kind of guy when it comes to items such as this, since it a component that is under pressure.

I love Dr. Pepper

I would just replace it. Peace of mind.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SSwt00SS

and just for you PAJeff, I told you I would take pics of the clearance of my exhaust (from another thread I cant find it now)...:D

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I remember you promised me a pic...glad I saw it.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...=1#post2672522

And, by the way, we need pics of the car too. :yup:

oh, that was for you Cutlass, my bad. thanks for the link to the thread. i forget things, especially when i've slept since then...:ughlaugh:

here you go cammed, even though there are plenty of pics all over this site :D :
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...S/DSC00369.jpg

and to be proactive with you guys, here's a sound clip of the exhaust...:devil: :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_w8gIZJHC5g

Oh. You have pics of the Formy too? I was looking for those.

No, none of the Formy yet. I need to fix the radiator, get a passenger side foglight, remove the side molding, then polish and wax before I take pics of it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SSwt00SS

Got the bastard!!!

Lucked out as the cable was not broke right at the releas latch. Loosened the plastic underneath and with the general idea of where it was at, I had to blindly feel around. Found the cable, pulled it out and then pulled on it. No binding at the release point.

Will post pics later. Now it's time to locate the coolant leak. :xfingers:

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You did something of what I said in post 9

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

That should release some of the pressure on the latch and make it easier to release.

Since you are going to have to replace the whole cable; If you are able, look for the cable and pull out the excess till you either reach the broke end or have enough to peel back the sheathing and then take vice grips and pull on cable. That should release the latch. This method has worked for me twice on an old truck that I used to have.

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Glad it's fixed

yeah, couldn't really see, but knew i had to 'head towards the light' while feeling around. the cable was long enough to pull out and then pulled on it by hand. got the vice grips out for nothing...:bino:


i should have a new radiator coming in today, too!

radiator is out, plan to put the new one in tmrw.

everything is going well. almost too well...