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convertor brands such as B&M,TCI,Hughes are production line manufactured and typically a stock item at the places we like to go shop for our needs. brands like Yank and CircleD,and others, are custom made for the application and because of that,stores don't list/show them.
anything less than 3000 stall rpm would be dissappointing. since your OEM stall is 1800rpm stall,doubling that to a 3500rpm stall typically/generally provides satisfaction.
A side point, purchase a SF-29 race grade flexplate, and some ARP grade 8 bolts, when you change your converter you are removing 3 of the 5 bolts that hold the flexplate anyway, so as long as you are in there .......
Do not forget a aftermarket transmission cooler, and a shift kit.
SteveC :)
Would a 3200 be ok for a DD with some ocasional RR or AutoX? I know anything over 3000 is gonna be good for drag. running a stock LS1 as of now. stock rear gears, guessing i have the 2.73s in there or whatever the lowesr one is :) cars a stock 98 TA for the most part. for now :)
It maks it easie to make the changes when you hear it from someone that did it alredy I am so anxious to buy the parts and can't wait for summerQuote:
Originally Posted by Firebirdjones
Appreciate that I will I was going to buy a converter and it comes with clutches I think he said and a B&M cooler He told me a shift kit was not nescassary as it was electronic :stuck:Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveC
Yep as per these guys and I jkust called one of our sponsors and they said perfecto 3200 to 3600 seems to be the proper converter Lokk in your door and if it has a code GU5 you have 3:23's if not it's 2:73's like mineQuote:
Originally Posted by JoshuaGrooms83
My 99 with 109000 miles had 3:23's and I did notice a difference of the line but the converter will fixe that I can't wait and I ure hope I will love it as you guys do
You'll be happy I guarantee it.
Picking a stall number you want is a bit tricky. Depends on who you want to go with. Some manufactures build their converters to drive a little tighter than others, the number they provide is just a ballpark basically.
For instance, I was going to use a Vigilante, and they recommended a 3200 (but can't remember which STR) for the same car with the camshaft I had planned. I kinda felt that was tighter than I really wanted, but seeing so many vigilante converters in action and knowing they worked and worked good, I was going to take their advice. They offered one free restall too if I remember right.
I called a few others, and Fuddle recommended a 3400 stall with a 2.1 STR, so I knew it would hit hard. Talking to some other members I went with this converter along with the upgraded larger lockup clutch for another $200.
I'm happy with it. I'd say it actually drives around a little loose compared to some other stalled cars I have, but I don't have the cam in the car yet, which will tighten it up a tad.
Yeah but Orions truck is pink. Go with a man color at the least.
I gotta quit picking on Orion someday......nah
Orion is correct....I am as old school as still is alive.....and yes I came from the stump pullers (427Chevy/389 GTO /396 Chevelle/Z28 etc.) and a high stall was something I had to "learn"and these new fangled LSX motors :)
We are living the heyday of muscle cars....it was not in the 60's....it is today.
It is the reason I do so much work on the kids cars....the kids in my small town all "soup up" their cars and they know I will help and they canuse my tools/my rules and they all come to the house....keep the hobby alive man....pass it on to the younger generation.
What were we talking about?:sarge:
A "Transgo" shift kit will replace and beefup some of the internal parts of the transmission, replacing plastic parts with metal parts, I also replaced my 2-4 servo (external on side of transmission) with a "Superior" billet aluminum race unit for crisper shifts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Durango
The entire process is more complicated than just replacing the converter, you will need several adjustments to the PCM (computer tune) to make everything work correctly, shift points, idle, lockup, which is best done on a dyno.
SteveC :)
The shift kit will allow much higher pressure (shift firmness) over a trannie with the lil plastic parts in it. Snap your neck type shift firmness.
no less than 3500. buy online. the stall is not about the hp. which is most abundant above 4k rpms and up. its about tq to get the car off the line. which is made in the mid 3k rpms and upQuote:
Originally Posted by Durango