How did you check your MAF? Voltage? Have you cleaned it lately?
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How did you check your MAF? Voltage? Have you cleaned it lately?
REALLY???? I don't think so. DONT DO THIS!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay37
You can use some brake cleaner (non flammable stuff) to find a vacuum leak that way. I don't recommend that method but hooking up a vacuum gauge would be the proper way to see if there was a manifold vacuum leak.
I would suspect fuel pump issues if your fuel pressure is not around 60psi at idle. These pumps have an internal regulator that could fail since we have a return-less fuel system or a bad check valve that bleeds off fuel pressure. A pin hole leak in the fuel line in the tank can cause this as well. Or a shorting wire to or from the pump can cause this. If you are to replace the fuel pump, you should get an upgraded Walbro 255 drop in kit.
have you replaced the spark plugs and wires lately? It could be bad gas too. I myself experienced a pin hole in the flex tube for the fuel pump. The way to finding out if you have a pin hole is to attach the fuel gauge to the rail and turn the key all the way to on. This will prime the pump turn it off and look at the fuel pressure gauge. If it drops or drops all the way then you have a hole.
In my case even with the hole my car drove fine.
I have already checked the fuel pressure, it is holding on strong at 60 psi. it stays at the same pressure at idle as it soes at revs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Demon_Z28
Last year I changed the 1st Walbro pump for a second one. When I did it stoped doing it for almost exactly a year. Now i changed the 2nd pump for a third Walbro 255. Now it still sputters.
JAY TA 98- Where is the "FLex tube" on my tank?Quote:
Originally Posted by JayTA98
the flex tube in between the output of the actual fuel pump and the tube that goes to the top of the fuel pump assembly. You have to pull the pump out to see it. This is the video i made when i had the leak.Quote:
Originally Posted by SS201
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixDQXmLBiQM"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixDQXmLBiQM[/ame]
The flex tube is the clear looking tube.
This is how you can tell that you have a leak in the flex tube.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3gOGJl24Yo"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3gOGJl24Yo[/ame]
see how the pressure won't hold?
Ok well I dont have any fuel pressure issues at the rail. I checked it a few weeks ago and we're still holding on strong. I checked it at idle and at acceleration. It holds at about 58-60 psi.
EDIT
[QUOTE=Demon_Z28;2504941]REALLY???? I don't think so. DONT DO THIS!!
Man, alot hype from the choir! I just don't mind saving money, I am going to go out on a limb here and assume that anyone spraying something flammable at there engine realizes there is some danger.
:Popcorn:
Seems like a lot of trolls lounging around on the site lately...
You never answered my post about your MAF. How do you know it's good? How did you check it? Have you cleaned it lately?
+2.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
CRAP my bad!! I have not checked the MAF (THIS YEAR). I checked it last year cleaned it with carb cleaner, confirmed it had circuit. I dont remember what reading it gave, a friend of mine checked it with his tool and said it worked.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS
Would a bad MAF give me a Lean readng on bank 2?
Guys....far and away what the OP is describing is caused by A) Dirty MAF. Dont use carb cleaner on your MAF sensor son. Use [ame="http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05110-Mass-Sensor-Cleaner/dp/B000J19XSA"]MAF Cleaner[/ame]. You can get it at any NAPA or AutoZone. Heck I even see it in WalMart. Pull it out and clean both sides of your MAF. Carb Cleaner will eat your electronics as most of them have chlorine in them.
B) Remove your throttle body and clean it good. Use [ame="http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05078-Throttle-Air-Intake-Cleaner/dp/images/B000M8PYO2"]throttle body cleaner[/ame].
Until these two relatively simple and inexpensive maintenance ops are completed all bets are off. These two issues cause what you describe more than any other issues.
I am curious if you are running ethenol (10%) in your fuel. If so I have seen many issues (some as you describe) with ethenol 10% mix. Screws up the sensors and they go into a constant state of flux....searching around for proper idle speeds and A/F. I have had great luck of eliminating this ethenol issue with mixing TCW3 2 stroke oil in your fuel. 1oz to 5 gallons is all you need. And yes the ethenol issue does seem like a vacuum leak.
Try the first two things first and let us know.
Awesome thanks Sarge I will do just that. MAF cleaner and Throttle body cleaner. I had read that post of yours where you explain the TCW3 2 stroke mixture but lost it and never tried it. I will ty these three things but probly not until Sunday or Monday, I work 14 hours a day so when time allows I will do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
One other things Sarge, I am running NGK TR6 spark plugs. A local motorhead told me that the TR6's are to cold for my engine running 91 octane as opposed to the previous owner who ran nitrious for a while. He told me to downgrade my plugs to the TR5's that may run a hotter spark. Does that make sense to you? If so could you help me understand how that would effect the engine?
If you are running (modified) higher compression, giggle gas or blown (turbo or supercharged) motors you would go to a TR6...a normal motor you would utilize a TR5. Gap each one to .060 as it gives you a more complete burn.
In a modified motor people use a cooler plug to prevent detonation.
Ok, but the TR6 would not cause this issue I am having correct? I will get them changedQuote:
Originally Posted by Sarge
I doubt it seriously. What are they gapped at?
I assume they are gapped at .60, I did not check them last time I installed them.
:thinkin: Hey bro that's over half an inch there;).. Gap is supposed to be like ~.050, .052.. ;) iircQuote:
Originally Posted by SS201
He is running a cooler plug.
Ahhh I c..Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge