ASP pulleys have issues or have had issues witht the belts slipping sometimes dont they, is the slp one better becasue of the ridges for the belt to sit in
Printable View
ASP pulleys have issues or have had issues witht the belts slipping sometimes dont they, is the slp one better becasue of the ridges for the belt to sit in
I've yet to see any performance numbers from that new GT so I think it's early to tell. I suppose if the 412hp and 390tq numbers are accurate and it has a good driver it may be capable of mid to high 12's in the 1/4 which is only a few bolt-ons away for most LS1s....some LS1s even managed high 12s stock.
I had the ASP on mine for quite a while. Never had any issues of belt slippage. If belts are slipping, I'd say someone has a very weak tensioner.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Toro Loco
I had heard of people saying the belts came off though. Since ASP's don't have the deep groove like some others on the market.
But I never had that issue either. I would attribute that problem to either a pulley not lined up properly, or a bad belt tensioner.
What issue I did have with mine, was slowing the water pump down to the point when idling, it could never cool the engine down sufficiently, and the fans wouldn't cycle properly. Bring the rpms up however, and the engine would cool right down and fans cycle. In traffic it was horrible.
So mine came back off in favor of the stock pulley.
^ wow i hadnt heard that about the water pump before i ve heard the alternator not charging correctly
I've mentioned it before in the past. It's been a couple years since I used it though.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Toro Loco
I also had low voltage. Would drop at idle, especially if lights were on, or the A/C running etc...
But that never gave me any driveability issues what so ever.
It was the temps I didn't like, and this happened during summer months. Idling in traffic or a parking lot, the temp on the scanner would rise slowly, even with both fans running. It just wouldn't come back down to a normal range. Unless however, I would hold RPM's at about 1500 while sitting still. You could watch the temp on the scanner immediately drop like a rock and fans would shut off. The coolant is simply circulating too slow at idle speeds.
This was in Ohio. I knew eventually moving to Arizona where it's warmer would be even more of a problem, so the pulley came back off.
Now the car can sit and idle indefinately and temp fluctuates as it should with the fans cycling on and off.
- Long Tube Headers
- Off Road Y-Pipe (Cat-less)
- Catback
- Lid
- Smooth Bellows
- Ported Stock or Aftermarket Throttle Body
- LS6 Intake
- Underdrive Pulley
- Electric Water Pump
- Short Shifter (not a power adder, but helpful)
- A/C Delete (weight reduction and less power lost from the belts)
- Aftermarket Suspension (Subframe Connectors, Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms, Adjustable Panhard Bar, Adjustable Torque Arm)
"Technically" a Nitrous Kit or Procharger bolt right on, but I don't think they fall into this category.
Thanks for all the info on the pulleys. How much of a difference do they really make? Are there any other suspension mods other than those just listed?
I forgot about Front and Rear Rear Sway Bars...those are a must.Quote:
Originally Posted by 98Z28CamaroJG
Other not so needed:
Lowering Springs
Shocks (Koni's are the top of the line, but I'm really happy with my KYB AGX's)
Front Upper and Lower Control Arms
luckily i already have thicker sway bars so its all good haha. thanks for all the info!