The code was P0410
Printable View
The code was P0410
I believe that is the same code our car was throwing when we bought it. Turned out to be the check valves.
Hey guys I'm about to do my egr, air delete next weekend and I have everything I need but I was wondering about the electrical connectors. Everything else seems pretty straight forward but just taping it off doesn't suit my anal nature. Is there a better way to deal with the electrical connectors? Anyone have a good idea? Or has anyone already thought of a good idea?
Are you concerned about corrosion on the connectors or appearance?
I taped the connector and zip tied both it and the plugged vacuum line to the engine wire harness. It is completely under the cowl and is essentially invisible. Add FRC's like our car and there is no way to tell. If corrosion is a concern, pack the connector with some dielectric grease before taping it off. Your only other option would be to trace the wiring back and remove it from the engine harness -- major work involved in that though.
Well I was concerned about both looks and corrosion, but mostly corrosion. If only they made a connector plug. Oh well. Ya I guess putting some dielectric in would be ok. What about snipping the connector all together and then taping it off? Do you think that would be stupid?
You could certainly cut off the connector and tape the wires up. Or if you wanna go nuts, seal the wires up with shrink tubing.
Haha. I think I might go nuts then. Haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass
Ya I think that would be the best way to do it. It would look the cleanest and you'd never have to worry about it again. Iono thats just the way I am. Get it done right the first time. Haha.
what did you use to plug off the vacuum source line????
I used a straight plastic vacuum connector with a rubber vacuum cap. You can buy the connectors and caps at any auto parts store. Beats the old bolt with gasket sealer method.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddysZ28
Haha. I just used a screw that fit tight enough in there and pushed the line under the coil packs. Out of sight. Good enough. I just did my egr and air this weekend. It looks way better. A lot more room IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddysZ28
Hey thanks for the advice! The plastic vacuum connectors and cap worked out great. $2 worth of parts and looks a lot cleaner then just throwing a screw in there, but whatever works right??? For anyone looking to use the vacuum connectors and rubber cap, the size to get is 3/16, just to save you multiple trips to the autoparts store. Thanks again!!!!
i need to do this delete..
My 2000 SS I just got (well used) has the block off plates on the manifolds, but the AIR system is still there. When I get some of my bigger bugs chased down I want to go ahead and remover the whole AIR system. Right now the Pump comes on and pumps air just not into the manifolds. The SES light does not come on. If I go ahead and remove everything will the SES light start coming on until I tune it out?
Yes. You should get an SES light, but it may not come on the very first time you start the car. Some of the trouble codes have to fault a couple of times before the light is triggered.
Hey guys, let me start by saying i am in no ways a mechanic but can follow instructions.. LOL . I just wanted a second opinion before I got too involved in this. I pulled the hoses at the union and there is no air movement coming from the pump side but the check valve side seems to be blowing out air but it could just be the air being sucked in. Their is definite engine noise with the hoses pulled apart and when i block the hose where the union normally is the engine quiets down.. is this normal?
I am assuming at this point it is something electrical before moving onto the pump itself.
Does everything sound right so far?
Also.. Im throwing the 0410 code but I am also throwing 0418 and 1415 which the second two lean towards electrical issues at the air pump circuit.. I am not sure if this is helpful, but would throw it out there incase it may change the game..
Pull the hoses apart at the union over the driver side wheelhouse. On cold start up, do you have air coming out of the hose that goes to the front of the car?
You will get some "air sound" from the check valve -- full blown exhaust coming out means that it is defective.
nice!! this is alot better write up then the one i used to remove mine. but it's not to hard anyway.
sorry to dig up such an old thread but...
mine is a 1999 so it doesnt have the vacuum solenoid or the hole in the side of the lid
so what all is needed to be plugged when i do this delete?
where do all the hoses lead? ii feel like i would miss some of it. i know it runs from the pump up the driver side of engine bay....then back against the firewall and towards the intake and over to the passenger side check valve.
but where does it lead after the two check valves? and what all is needed to be plugged when i do this delete?