i would suggest Pacesetter long tubes.had mine for almost a year and they are very high quality and still look damn good(ceramic coated)
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i would suggest Pacesetter long tubes.had mine for almost a year and they are very high quality and still look damn good(ceramic coated)
How big of a difference overall does the size of the primaries affect performance? Especially when you plan to do internals further down the road.
Cheap, reliable, fast.
Pick two.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-Po
that answers your question doesn't it? Its the fastest, cheapest way to 500HP. For $1000 you will have amassed power that will kick you in the ass when you hit the juice.
Of course, your tranny will probably be first to go, or your intake if its not tuned right. I'm not sure about the engine. I ran N2O with no mods until my tranny went. The engine had a tune for Nitrous, but had no other mods at all. I put about 30k miles on that engine before it was built. The tranny lost 6th gear first, then slowly progressed to destruction.
How about the cheapest way to get a fast and reliable car?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Luos
well as Mr. Luos posted he asked you to pick 2 for 1 there is no way to get reliable horsepower that is Cheap( if you go nitrous thats the only cheap most bang for your buck ) that is reliable sooner or later the parts will break and you will be thinking why didnt i just build it the right way. Now if you want reliable horsepower and you have a Second car you can either turn your motor into a stroker diamond producs are top of the line in my book so that all the internals are new and quality parts not just powered metal like the connecting rods that come stock in your engine will give way after hitting it with nitrous within a year. Now if you want to buy a drop in motor that is brand new i know of many companys that you can order a drop in motor 580 hp to the flywheel for under 7 grand with all forged parts that is just the engine though. the rear end is a diffrent story if you like traction control and abs expect to pay big bucks to keep them in the 9 inch fords or 12 bolt moser's(Neither will be a permanent fix though) . You can easily go pick up a mid 70's muscle cars rear end and beef it up and have a reliable diffrential for many years to come for under your rear end there are ways to save money with quality parts we are in a recession so if youre going to have modifications done now is the time to get 1 awesome of a deal . I am an Engine builder so i have seen the ins and outs of every ls block architecture fyi.
I'm in the middle of my 500 horse build. Cheap is not and option, unless you want parts falling out the bottom, or rapidly loosing horse[power as the engine eats itself. I won't be using nitrous, cause it just isn't my thing. I've seen it in too many Honda's. I plan on a 383 stroker, magic stick 4 cam, Texas speed heads, Fast 90/90 intake, and longtubes. I should easily hit 500 crank horse.
As everyone else already said, you need to put it too the ground. I already have SLP 3 point SFC's, UMI a-arms, UMI control arms, UMI panhard, UMI torque arm w/ relocation mount, Koni shocks w/ B&G springs, and a Moser 12-bolt rear w/ 3.73's.
The engine build is going to run about $6k doing all the work myself. Then I have to pay for a dyno tune, at the amount of $500 minimum. I already spent about $2500 on suspension and chassis, and about $2200 on the rear. So to get to where you want to be, you are looking at almost $12K if you can wrench it yourself.:suicide:
Thank you for that! That was really what I was looking for! How bad of an idea would it be to just drop a LS3 in the car? I am not sure how well it would match up or if it would even fit. I know a few places that have a ton of wrecked vettes, cts-v's and now new cameros.
Fitment isn't really an issue. It's roughly the same size as the LS1. The problem is going to be computer compatibility, and can't even begin to help you with that:pQuote:
Originally Posted by crombie02
Trick Flow 515 package
Full Intake/Exhaust
Tune
Supercharger/Turbo or nitrous
9-Inch Rear end
2 ways.
forged bottom end, tons of giggle juice, and a perfect tune.
or
supercharger/turbocharger
forged bottom end suggested here as well. lol
basically, another way to save money is to know what you want and do it right the first time,Quote:
Originally Posted by TmaxicanA
LOL...AMEN to that!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by justinmc978
i think you are looking at this wrong to tell you the truth OP...also why 500rwhp ?? for bragging rights ? or to run at the strip ..as running at the strip isnt about rwhp ..as much as setup...do you want N/A ? or FI?
also cheap is a relative term ..1k extra isnt much when you have a 11-20k build
i wont get into how to get the power...but i will give a a VERY rough guide to the supporting mods needed.
9" rear end assembly 2300-4000 (depends greatly on 3rd member and other options and types of 9")
new clutch and flywheel 700-2000
new torque arm 400
new panhard bar 200
shocks 400-1k
springs 300ish-400
tires 1k -2k
wheels 500-2k (used or not plays into the price)
that is just a really rough run down on suspension etc supporting mods....as you can see ..saving a few bucks here and there wont mean anything when you are dealing with these price ranges
200 shot should get you to 500ishwhp. Yay we did it!!!!!! BOOOOOOOM
w00tQuote:
Originally Posted by Zinergy
How is that trick flow 515? I havn't heard much about it i know its FWHP but still seems like a good buy if your shooting for 11's like myself thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by tatertot91
FWHP? This isnt a Honda forum. And i think theres a few people on that have bought it and made like 440hp at the wheels. Im considering the on of the larger kits for when i do my 408 because its matched partsQuote:
Originally Posted by Itllrun
Flywheel horsepowerQuote:
Originally Posted by T/A98
I didnt even think of that. I always refer to that as hp at that crank.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-Po