I'm going with long tubes, but I'll keep the LM cat back. I may changed the resonator because it will be a bit too loud with the headers.Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG GUNS
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I'm going with long tubes, but I'll keep the LM cat back. I may changed the resonator because it will be a bit too loud with the headers.Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG GUNS
thats one serious upgrade....good luck with the K-member....its a bit tricky to get out
looks like a cool build man, good luck
For PA Jeff and Third SHift, here is a close-up of the UMI control arm mounts. All four on each side look this way. I could get new ends for $30 a piece, but I'll just be back to this in few years.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...d/IMG_2052.jpg
Wow. That is pretty rusted up. Any idea how long they have been on the car?
I put them on about 3 years ago. I live in CT and don't drive in the snow obviously, but the salt hangs on the roads for months after winter. I imagine this has something to do with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
Wow, that must suck. Too bad they can't come up with a better solution than salt. I feel for y'all up there. Though last winter when we did have a little snow down here, the city guys dropped a brick looking thing of salt in my cove by MY driveway...had to scrap it up myself LOL!Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKid
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKid
Fortunately, our state uses road cinders in lieu of salt. Over the line in NY, where my wife works, they salt the shit out of the roads and you can see the difference on her car vs. my truck. Salt -- FTL.
Subscribed
Geez. All this attention, I better actually get this thing done! Got my fuel lines off today. They were a royal pita! The first tool I bought was a generic 3/8 inch line. Apparently, generic means Ford. Back to the Zone for $3.17 plastic tool that did the trick. Note to all...the underside of the cowl is razor sharp!
Tommorrow, I'm going to start the slow raising of the body. This way I'll find all the ground straps that I missed...
Sooo, whatcha going to do with the UMI units???
I live in the deep south (any further south and I'll be in the Gulf) and we have no salt issues here.
Weeeeeelllllll, it just so happens they'll be getting wire brushed, greased up, and sold to a lucky buyer. One of the ends will need to be replaced. Last time I checked it was $25+ shipping from UMI. Send me a PM if you are interested.Quote:
Originally Posted by SMWS6TA
i suppose im hopping on the subscribed train also
ya gonna get some new tips?Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKid
$2100 delivered is nice. If you had to do it over again would you get the same lift set up that you now have or would you have bought something else? Pro's and Con's to your Max Jax?..I'm in the camp not even having a garage but when I have one built it will have some sort of lift just not sure what to get.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKid
But I need to get started with a garage as of last week I had 5 personal vehicles with 4 on the road and then in just the last week I bought not one but two late model, low mileage Crown Vics P71's.....7 cars now and no gargage....thank heaven I have a good size private back yard...and these cars are all just driven by me...I'm a family of one ( ME ) with a girlfriend who lives down in Fla.
Cool thread you have here..Best of luck with everything and thanks for sharing!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailor
I'll throw in my .02 as I did a lot of pondering before purchasing our lift. When I built the garage, I layed out the tubing for my floor heat to accomodate an Eagle lift. My one requirement was that it be an American Made lift -- just how I am. Unfortunately, in the interim, Eagle went "offshore" with their manufacturing and I really had no interest at that point. There are very few USA made lifts out there. I ended up going with an asymmetrical Mohawk lift as the overhead was easily adjustable to accomodate my lower ceiling height.
In your case, you will need to decide between a 4-post and a 2-post. If you do go with a 2-post, the asymmetrical is the one to have as it is much more user friendly when it comes to parking cars between the posts and opening the doors. I would probably avoid a 2-post lift that utilizes the floor plate between the columns. That would become annoying very quickly. You also have to plan for the tools to use your lift, including an undercar oil drain, stands, and a transmission jack to get heavier components in and out of the vehicle once it is in the air.
I have friends with Rotary and Bend Pak lifts and they are nice. The construction is no where near as heavy as the Mohawk though. I did look at Superlifts and a host of others in my search. One thing is for sure, once you get a lift you will be spoiled rotten by it and you will suddenly have friends that you never did before.
Good info..Thanks!
Yes I am! Mine are on the side of I-95...somewhere...Quote:
Originally Posted by needls1again
Definately good advice from Pa Jeff. Always plan ahead. I went with a 10 foot ceiling for the purpose of having not only "lifting area", but also a ton of dead wall space for material storage (wood, and such that you don't use daily).Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailor
So now I had a few choices in lifts. 2 post, 4 post, mid lift. I post I ruled out right away. It takes up too much space, and it doesn't give unlimited access to tires and brakes. The mid lift was good, but most utliize the center plate Jeff mentioned, and it lifts with the platforms. This is no good, as you need the center open if you plan on dropping the engine/sub frame. So 2 post was the way to got. Now, the issue was usable space left in the garage. With a 2 post sytem, you constantly are walking around the post to move about the garage. At least with the configuration I have. This is why I settled with the Max Jax. The unit is comparably priced with other quality 2 post lifts. It runs on 115 volt. It will lift the car over 4 feet, with no issues (Even a 5500 lb Jeep). And when you are done with it, you un bolt the floor anchors and roll it away.
The construction of the Max Jax is very simple, yet very strong. When I lifted the Jeep I got less than 1/2 of flex in the free standing (anchored) tower. The assembly took me about 5 hours. I had some snags, but I called the company and they were fantastic!. I've now had the car up and down a couple dozen times, and no issues at all. I've had to bleed the system a few times to work it through, but this is simply done with a zerks fitting on top of the rams. Crack it open, wait till the air rush turns to fluid, close it. That simple. Best part is, it lifts it just to the height that a mechanics chair is perfect for. Just roll around under the car and save your back. It also will lift high enough for oil drian towers, and transmission jacks to fit under with no problem. I would recommend this unit to anyone who has a small to medium, multi-purpose garage. Hope this helps. If you need anymore info, I have a bunch of pics of the lift install.
im curious ..how do you know the new units wont do the same ?
i am curious on how often you greased the ends etc, and how often did/do you wash the under-body of the car?
have you talked to ryan at umi about this ?
i have had my umi LCAs on my car DD'd all year in michigan..and they look nothing like that..been through two years.