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Just speaking from experience. And all 5 of then were the correct size and type of torx bit. 3 I purchased and 2 the body shop I eventually took the car to had on hand. They said it was a common problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by FORD RECOVERY EXPERT
A hammer won't do shit once they rust in place!
Update -
I finally found the cause of the leak using a cup of water and a spotter. It was actually where the T-top meets the edge of the roof.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...1FoundLeak.jpg
Any water that made it into the grove behind the T-top would run down the length of the interior sidewall.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...02LeakPath.jpg
I took a few beads of clear silicone and pressed it into the gap between the white painted roof and the black painted joint.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...r/03TheFix.jpg
Thus far this step has prevented any more water running down the interior sidewall. Now when water that collects behind the T-Tops runs down a chute on the outside of the car and exits here.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l.../04NewExit.jpg
I'm guessing this is how water is normally supposed to exit. I'm happy enough with the fix to everything back together.
Oh. and I found out that all those torx screws were T45's. I picked up a T45 bit socket from Home Depot; works like a charm.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...TorxSocket.jpg
Thanks for all the advice.
Glad to hear it worked out for you!
A body guy told me that silicone contains vinegar (hence the odour), and will eventually cause rust on any steel parts it is on due to the acidic nature of vinagar. For sealing body panels, use body sealer (GM used it on their cars from factory). Replace those collapsed T top gaskets, hatch gaskets and you will notce how "puffy" they are compared to your original stuff!
I knew there was a problem with the silicone failing, but I thought it was due to the temperature extremes. I fixed a leaking trunk with it on another car awhile back. It failed over the winter. The body seam sealer worked a lot better and is still holding in that car almost 10 years later. I would have brought it up earlier, but I completely forgot about that stuff.
Mine leaks like crazy in the trunk floor.
Pretty sure that is not coming from the t-tops.
Might try replacing the hatch seal, seems pretty wimpy to begin with.
Alan
I can't see that being true. It is used on boats all the time to seal bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by pewter2002
Well i place a strip of temporay caulk tape in there to see if that helps. This gives me more of an idea of what to look for
i was fixing to say it was the t tops......when it rains i can watch mine drip in the rear corners......both sides :mad:
i think im gonna have to pony up the dough on this one. i think i need new driver side ttop and door seals :( I did hear for another guy that has a 3rd gen camaro with ttops that peanut oil helps "freshen" the old seals up a little. I have no idea though. Im gonna test this out this weekend and see if it helps. cant hurt. I got water coming in everywhere on the drivers side. its killing me. AND OF COURSE ITS ALWAYS RAINING IN GERMANY!!!!!!!
silicone grease will help preserve the seals.
not sure if it will help once they are shot.
good luck with the rain.
the problem with peanut oil, silicone grease and any other oil you put on is that will start to get into the black trim piece at the top of the door. After a while it will start to smear the window with the grease or oil everytime you roll the window up and down. That was my experience with it and I always cleaned the excess or oil and grease.
I guess that could be an issue. I just want the water to stay out of my car for the winter. At least its snowing now and the water is frozen lolQuote:
Originally Posted by JayTA98
I never used it either, just heard it worked. I don't have to worry about t-top leaks. the hardtop stays nice and dry as long as I stay away from high pressure washing.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayTA98