I'm a Oil Junkie

Jesus H Christ I found a store here in town that has the Amsoil 10w30 and they want $6.10 per quart!

That's highway robbery in my opinion...

By the way which one do I want?

(TSO) Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil
(TRO) Series 2000 Synthetic 20W-50 Motor Oil
(HDD) Series 3000 Synthetic 5W-30 Heavy-Duty Diesel Oil
(XLM) XL 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil
(XLF) XL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
(XLT) XL 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
(XLO) XL 10W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil
(ASL) SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
(AFL) Synthetic 5W-40 European Motor Oil
(ATM) SAE 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
(AMO) SAE 10W-40 Synthetic High Performance Motor Oil
(ARO) SAE 20W-50 Synthetic High Performance Motor Oil
(ACD) Synthetic 10W-30/SAE 30 Heavy-Duty Diesel Oil
(AHR) SAE 60 Synthetic Racing Oil
(AME) SAE 15W-40 Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil
(PCO) Dual-Base 15W-40 Heavy-Duty Diesel/Gasoline Oil
(AEF) Engine Flush

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A

Jesus H Christ I found a store here in town that has the Amsoil 10w30 and they want $6.10 per quart!

That's highway robbery in my opinion...

By the way which one do I want?

(TSO) Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil
(TRO) Series 2000 Synthetic 20W-50 Motor Oil
(HDD) Series 3000 Synthetic 5W-30 Heavy-Duty Diesel Oil
(XLM) XL 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil
(XLF) XL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
(XLT) XL 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
(XLO) XL 10W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil
(ASL) SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
(AFL) Synthetic 5W-40 European Motor Oil
(ATM) SAE 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
(AMO) SAE 10W-40 Synthetic High Performance Motor Oil
(ARO) SAE 20W-50 Synthetic High Performance Motor Oil
(ACD) Synthetic 10W-30/SAE 30 Heavy-Duty Diesel Oil
(AHR) SAE 60 Synthetic Racing Oil
(AME) SAE 15W-40 Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil
(PCO) Dual-Base 15W-40 Heavy-Duty Diesel/Gasoline Oil
(AEF) Engine Flush

I don't see 0-30...

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Look at the first one on your list....doesn't it say "...0W-30 Motor Oil" right there in the description?

Nevermind :)

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Originally Posted by GatorSS

Since that GM sandwich adpater mounts between the oil filter and the filter landing and still requires use of the stock oil filter, you use three oil filters (the two large remote ones and the stock one)? Or is that link for a different adapter than the one you use and you actually do not still use the stock filter? I don't really like the sandwich adapters because they cause the stock filter to sit even lower, and since I use the longer filter this could really cause a problem with ground clearance. I don't want it to get hit.:cry:

Also, what is your opinion of the Amsoil bypass system vs. the Perma Cool remote filter system?

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Here...mebbe I screwed up..... I have this http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...86&prmenbr=361
Goes from here to the dual oil filters..then from there to the Oil cooler....sorry for any... confusion....I have two filters.....works like a champ....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A

Nevermind :)

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I have two cases of Amsoil 0-30 sitting in the shop. I'll send you a case (12 quarts) for $60 bucks +shipping (around ten bucks)...I aint no dealer....this is my cost basically......pay me after you get it...I don't care.....hell if you rip me off....I'm out $60 bucks...I trust folks......you will see/feel the difference immediately....PM me with your address and I'll ship it...then write me a check after you get it.....I got Castrol 0-30 GC (green) out the ying yang also:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 97 Stang

dino for me

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OK first off-I gotta ask-does that Stang got LS1 power?Nothin personal but-I wouldn't get nothin outa Modmotor.com myself-ya kno wat I mean?Anywhoo I use Mobil One 5W-30-where did you get the info on it changing to 5W-20 after 500 miles? Just curious. I think I'm becoming an oil junkie!!!:shots

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 02z28ls1

OK first off-I gotta ask-does that Stang got LS1 power?Nothin personal but-I wouldn't get nothin outa Modmotor.com myself-ya kno wat I mean?Anywhoo I use Mobil One 5W-30-where did you get the info on it changing to 5W-20 after 500 miles? Just curious. I think I'm becoming an oil junkie!!!:shots

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Good oil info for you Junkies
bobistheoilguy.com

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Originally Posted by Sarge

I have two cases of Amsoil 0-30 sitting in the shop. I'll send you a case (12 quarts) for $60 bucks +shipping (around ten bucks)...I aint no dealer....this is my cost basically......pay me after you get it...I don't care.....hell if you rip me off....I'm out $60 bucks...I trust folks......you will see/feel the difference immediately....PM me with your address and I'll ship it...then write me a check after you get it.....I got Castrol 0-30 GC (green) out the ying yang also:)

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My PM's haven't been working otherwise i'd use one here...I might take you up on that, I need to see what this guy sells the 0-30 for, I only found the price for the 10-30. I will let you know in maybe 8-10 hrs.

Question for everbody::thinkin:
Do any of you use an oil additive? If so, what?

Give us some details, like how often? ...how much (quatity, cost)? Why?

And for an even livlier discussion, If you don't use one, why? C'mon, we need feedback... we're oil junkies! Give us your opinions, good, bad or whatever. Just stick to oil stuff...we've got to have more!

Any special recipes, procedures (like, after you changed oil, if you had to put the additive in with the engine warmed up, or had to drive it immediately for some time, etc.)?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A

My PM's haven't been working otherwise i'd use one here...I might take you up on that, I need to see what this guy sells the 0-30 for, I only found the price for the 10-30. I will let you know in maybe 8-10 hrs.

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You got it....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GatorSS

Question for everbody::thinkin:
Do any of you use an oil additive? If so, what?

Give us some details, like how often? ...how much (quatity, cost)? Why?

And for an even livlier discussion, If you don't use one, why? C'mon, we need feedback... we're oil junkies! Give us your opinions, good, bad or whatever. Just stick to oil stuff...we've got to have more!

Any special recipes, procedures (like, after you changed oil, if you had to put the additive in with the engine warmed up, or had to drive it immediately for some time, etc.)?

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Few things I have learned are real in the additive world....the rest is pretty much snake oil. But good post and question!
1. Lube Control maintains the TBN in any oil...
2.FP60 (Fuel Protector) works!
Instead of me typing out all the advantages of both the above...here is the link... http://www.lubecontrol.com/lube.htm
3. Valvoline Syn Power Oil Treatment....this stuff is the real deal...you can add a few oz's to any oil for improved lubrication and protection. If you want to run Dino oil...adding a bottle of this stuff greatly narrows the gap between Dino and full blown Synthetics.....great stuff with no residual side effects like many "additives"... http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=21
4. Royal Purple Royal Ice...not about oil:) But this stuff dropped the water temps in the GTO by 20-30 degrees......all by itself.....it works......
http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/prpice.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GatorSS

Question for everbody::thinkin:
Do any of you use an oil additive? If so, what?
Give us some details, like how often? ...how much (quatity, cost)? Why?

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As previously posted in this thread, I add Valvoline Syn Power oil treatment & Auto-Rx to every oil used in my cars. Sarge's post before this one explains the benefits of the Valvoline & I use the Auto-Rx to keep everything clean. Have done an original Auto-Rx cleanning & flush in all of my cars & a maintenance does keeps them that way. Mix is approximately 6 qts. oil, 6 oz. Valvoline, 3oz. Auto-Rx. or 1 oz. per qt. of the Valvoline & 1/2 oz. per quart of Auto-Rx.

How often = Usually twice per year unless I've been high reving @ the track.

Quality is A-1

Cost = ? don't know as it's a not a cost issue. However, there is savings in taking care of the engine.

Good call man^^^^^^
Yes AutoRX is the best "cleaner" out there and works.
http://www.auto-rx.com/
Works well in trannies also:)
How is this for an oil/filter "stash" :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...tashMedium.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sarge

Good call man^^^^^^
Yes AutoRX is the best "cleaner" out there and works.
http://www.auto-rx.com/
Works well in trannies also:)
How is this for an oil/filter "stash" :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...tashMedium.jpg

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Nice :)

PM sent.

Yeah! Nice stash! :thumbup:

Regarding cost, if someone uses an additive, what did it cost? Some of the stuff out there is pretty pricy. That way, if we see someone wasting a bunch of money on a gimmick marketing additive, we can inform them of it. Or, if someone wants to try to justify the expense for any one of the "miracle" additives...have at it!

How many of you use stuff like Slick 50, DuraLube, ZMAX, Restore, etc? C'mon, I know you're out there.

I have a friend (who is a big Ford guy), who swears by DuraLube. Many times, he suggests I ought to use it. I don't, but do any of you? Why?

OK, no bites in over 24 hours...

Lets get the oil related discussion going again. Sarge mentioned earlier (in post #111 on this thread) that Valvoline Syn Power Oil Treatment is "great stuff with no residual side effects like many 'additives'... "

Sarge (and/or anyone else), please elaborate on these residual side effects for the benefit of those who might not know.

Not to be rude here -but I did ask the question-Where did the info on Mobil One thinning out from 5W-30 to 5W-20 after 500 miles come from.If you're gonna make a specific claim like that and others there needs to be specific data to back that up.You may not be a salesman for that company but you are selling their products(that makes you a salesman) and maybe biased.Stick with the facts and leave the snake oil sales outa the forum.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GatorSS

OK, no bites in over 24 hours...

Lets get the oil related discussion going again. Sarge mentioned earlier (in post #111 on this thread) that Valvoline Syn Power Oil Treatment is "great stuff with no residual side effects like many 'additives'... "

Sarge (and/or anyone else), please elaborate on these residual side effects for the benefit of those who might not know.

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I was referencing deposit/varnish left behind by some of the teflon based additives in my comment......Even Dupont...the maker of teflon does not recommend teflon be put into a gas burning engine.....
Some good reading on the subject... http://www.skepdic.com/slick50.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 02z28ls1

Not to be rude here -but I did ask the question-Where did the info on Mobil One thinning out from 5W-30 to 5W-20 after 500 miles come from.If you're gonna make a specific claim like that and others there needs to be specific data to back that up.You may not be a salesman for that company but you are selling their products(that makes you a salesman) and maybe biased.Stick with the facts and leave the snake oil sales outa the forum.

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Do not know where this is coming from as I went back a few pages and could not find your post...... My comment on the Mobil thinning is here

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sarge

Mobil 1 0-40 is great.....use it knowing you are using some of the best base stock and additive packs out there.....I "hear" it thins after awhile.....that is why I sorta stay away from it...that and I can get Amsoil as cheap as Mobil 1 and Amsoil just kick the hell out of Mobil 1 in all the various stress test they do on oils......but the fact remains Mobil 1 0-40 is a great oil...just overpriced.

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I will say the UOA that I have done showed the viscosity to be down at the high 20's on my daughters car after 5000 miles....and of course there are many who "post" about it....I only state from personal experience....Blackstone Labs , last I checked is a reputable firm so I have no reason to doubt their findings on my daughters oil....do you?
I agree so often I read things on the Internet that are no more than regurgitation of something people have read.......I applaud your demand for proof...but am also confused as to who and what specific post you are talking about...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GatorSS

Yeah! Nice stash! :thumbup:

Regarding cost, if someone uses an additive, what did it cost? Some of the stuff out there is pretty pricy. That way, if we see someone wasting a bunch of money on a gimmick marketing additive, we can inform them of it. Or, if someone wants to try to justify the expense for any one of the "miracle" additives...have at it!

How many of you use stuff like Slick 50, DuraLube, ZMAX, Restore, etc? C'mon, I know you're out there.

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I have used a couple of different products over the years-I have a dune buggy that has an unrebuilt ancient swing-axle transmission that was shifting a little balky.I saw the Slick 50 manual trans additive and gave it a try.It made an immediate and very noticeable improvement in the ease of shifting that has lasted to this day-that was over 10 years ago!I have also used Restore in an old (63)GMC truck motor and it made a difference in blowby in the old boat anchor engine-but haven't used it since because it seems awfully expensive to use at every oil change and it leaks alot.But it did seem to work as advertised-thinking about using it again if I can slow down the leaks.............OK-Sarge-sorry guy-I think there's been a misunderstanding.I you look at your post#15 you state 500 miles-maybe you meant 5000miles? Then look back to my post #106 and you'll see me asking the original question which I took to being ignored but you apparently just overlooked.If you're getting the stuff tested and coming to these conclusions then that's evidence and not just something that you "heard". I change my Mobil One at around 3000 miles-usually when the oil life meter comes on. What do you think about the "oil life" system on the late model GMs?Have you had any testing done with regards to that?(Just changed my oil today BTW-used a Mobil One filter instead of the previous Fram because of your hatred of Fram).Thanks for the advice.

Hey man...no harm at all....hell we are all gearheads aren't we?!
Yes I myself have challenged folks who made " claims" over at bitog.com on this very subject....only one has come back with a UOA that he posted...and it had the same results as mine.....does that mean Mobil 1 is bad...HELL NO....not at all...I consistently list it in my top 5.....between us...you know where people really screw up with LS1/2/6's? They put in like 20-50 racing oils into an engine with .007 bearing clearance.....how in the hell is that gonna lube those tight clearances...it ain't....folks get on my ass all the time for running Amsoil 0-30 in 106 Texas heat flat out...yes I have an oil cooler.....but still....I should be running a much thicker oil...bullshit.....my motor innards are pristine...my UOA's are damn near perfect....
And for the record...I have seen UOA's on Mobil 1 0-40 that after 2000 miles are low 30 weights....5-30 that are high 20's...but then if run longer intervals thicken back into their original grade.....so.....
And Lastly...yes some additives give a smoother running "feeling"....the problem is the deposits/foam etc. many of them produce far outweigh any "smoothness" they produce.....just my observation:)
I'm glad your here and we got a great group of gearheads.....
EDIT: Sorry forgot the oil life monitor question...Me personally? No...I don't trust em.....but that doesn't mean anything at all.....I don't trust the government to tell me what to do...the IRS....the Church.....nobody:) Stubborn old cuss ain't I.....The very idea of algorithms dictating when my oil should be changed with no consideration to my driving conditions (or only statistical considerations)...just don't cut mustard with me.....I dunno....

Yeah-you just touched on an important point-engines are designed to run certain weight oils because of bearing clearances.If you are monitoring your engine closely then you can experiment-otherwise stick with the recommendations(or somebody elses experiences with the same circumstances).I'll check the old swing axle for foaming next time I'm out "killing" myself offroad.

Great posts guys...keep 'em coming.

While we're waiting on some more oil additive opinions....

Any opinions on Schaeffer oils? http://www.schaefferoil.com/ A friend (a Porsche guy) claims it's a great oil, especially for high performance engines. I've not heard much about this brand and haven't really seen much written about it (I haven't really looked for it either). Like I've written before, I have been using Mobil 1 0w40 for quite a while (gonna try Amsoil next oil change).

Not that I'm even considering using Schaeffer, I just want to know if anybody has used it or knows something about it. After all, we're oil junkies here!

Schaffer is damn good oil......no doubt...great UOA's and a very loyal following....

That's what my Porsche-driving friend and the guys at the local import shop he uses claim. I was told that this shop was the only local place that sold it. They were claiming that Schaeffer was the best oil on the market (salesman usually make claims that their stuff is the best). So, from those guys, and now from you, Sarge, I have a few good opinions of this oil. Of course, we'd all like to know of more opinions, good or bad.

Side note: When I followed my friend to the import shop (he wanted to show it to me and all the racing mods they do for imports--mostly German imports), they all had respect for my SS. They all commented on how powerful the LS1 is and that my car was the "best bang for the buck." They've evidently raced a few and said that while they've modded import cars that could beat the LS1 cars, it took at least twice as much money to do it.

LS1 is tough to beat when it comes to return on investment....I see these " Internet Wars" all the time.....Cobra Vs. Ta and shit.....my humble observation and EXPERIANCE is this.....
I pay $30 grand for a 99 Cobra....put another $30 in it and am pushing a 900 RWHP.....best I can get for it in pristine condition is $40K....
I pay $28K for a new Goat...put $25K more into and am at 500RWHP....I get offered $50K for it as it sits...

<-- New Amsoil fan

Runs like a champ. :yup:

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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A

<-- New Amsoil fan

Runs like a champ. :yup:

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Stuff is great man...:usa:

Sorry this is way off subject but I'm just curious. Sarge who is in your avatar?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A

<-- New Amsoil fan

Runs like a champ. :yup:

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So, you just tried it, I presume? What improvements did you notice over your previous oil? What was your previous oil?

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Originally Posted by Rabbit

Sorry this is way off subject but I'm just curious. Sarge who is in your avatar?

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Stevie Ray Vaughan

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GatorSS

So, you just tried it, I presume? What improvements did you notice over your previous oil? What was your previous oil?

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Mebbe I can help....he went from a Conoco/Fram configuration to a Amsoil 0-30/Purolator setup.......the "difference" is felt almost immediately.....I changed the oil/filter in one of my employees cars (an 04 GTO) Friday....from Mobil 5-30 AC/Delco filter.....to German Castrol 0-30/KN filter.....she felt the smoothness when she started the car....yesterday we detailed cars and she commented on her instant gas mileage readout...it had gone up 3 miles per gallon....and more importantly she swears her engine revs quicker.....she was amazed....but her Dad had taught her all oil is just oil and there is no difference....she doesn't listen to her Dad anymore when it comes to oil:)

That's right it was Conoco 10-30 and a FRAM filter from the previous owner's setup, I swapped it out for Amsoil 0-30 and a Purolator. It does run smoother now though I haven't tested gas mileage - I hadn't thought of it. However I filled the tank that same day and reset my trip OD (when doing the oil-change 15 sec hold) so i'll see how it did on the next fill-up.

Also swapped out the AC Delco battery (it was starting to get weak) to a new Optima red-top. Next is a coolant system flush and I should be ready for the winter...I imagine the cold-starting should be tons better than what it would have been without the oil/battery change.

I just got my test kit from blackstone labs, it says to fill the tube with oil that is at running temp....WTF. How do you do that without getting burned? I'm probably just going to fill it after having it idle for a few minutes...that way I don't have to drain the pan then wait 2 hours to change the filter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SeVeReDiStOrTiOn

I just got my test kit from blackstone labs, it says to fill the tube with oil that is at running temp....WTF. How do you do that without getting burned? I'm probably just going to fill it after having it idle for a few minutes...that way I don't have to drain the pan then wait 2 hours to change the filter.

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I take my sample during an oil change. I drive the car and get it to operating temp....then up on the ramps.....get the sample bottle ready....I use gloves during oil changes....because yes the oil is hotter than hell:) You always want to change oil when the engine and the oil is at operating temps...this insures you are getting all the oil from the top end and removing the maximum amount of debris and sediment...a cold engine has all this crap up in the top end and the oil is thick...thus preventing a complete drain....
Do not take your sample with the first few seconds of oil coming out....try and get your sample in the middle of the drain....this disallows the sediment in the bottom of the pan giving you fubarred readings......and on that note...I always flush with a cheap Dino oil to get all that sediment out of the bottom of the pan before putting in my Amsoil....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sarge

I take my sample during an oil change. I drive the car and get it to operating temp....then up on the ramps.....get the sample bottle ready....I use gloves during oil changes....because yes the oil is hotter than hell:) You always want to change oil when the engine and the oil is at operating temps...this insures you are getting all the oil from the top end and removing the maximum amount of debris and sediment...a cold engine has all this crap up in the top end and the oil is thick...thus preventing a complete drain....
Do not take your sample with the first few seconds of oil coming out....try and get your sample in the middle of the drain....this disallows the sediment in the bottom of the pan giving you fubarred readings......and on that note...I always flush with a cheap Dino oil to get all that sediment out of the bottom of the pan before putting in my Amsoil....

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With how much cheap Dino oil do you flush?

Also, I'm ordering a case of the Amsoil S2000 0w30 today (and as a preferred customer for the better price). So, in a few days, I'll be changing the oil in the 2000 SS. I have been using Mobil 1 0w40 in all my LSX's. My other cars have recently been changed, so I'll wait until their next oil change interval before switching to Amsoil in them. That should give me plenty of time to see how well it does in the 2000 SS. Obviously, I am expecting it to do quite well. But, I'm wondering if I'll be able to notice an improvement right away?

I use about half a quart of like Havoline or Valvoline...whatever is a buck a quart....I get a few quarts....BlackHawk just switched over...he is hearing different things now.....as many do....the cleaning does that.....it will go away...keep the filters changed...I recommend changing the filter after the first 1K-1.5K and just topping off...the amount of crap is unreal that Amsoil will clean out of your motor....

Thanks, Sarge. I'm looking forward to the change and how well it will clean and protect. Later, I plan to add the oil cooler and remote filter. I'd like to do the dual remote filter, but I'm wondering where to mount it? There's not much room. Worse case, I'll add the single remote and I'll at least have a much bigger filter than stock.

Mobile one Synthetic
Wix Filters

I didn't see anyone say Wix. Isn't Wix a good filter or do I need to change?:hmm:

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Originally Posted by The Rookie

Mobile one Synthetic
Wix Filters

I didn't see anyone say Wix. Isn't Wix a good filter or do I need to change?:hmm:

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WIX is dayum good. NAPA/Bosch all good.
Fram is bad....very bad....

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Originally Posted by Sarge

WIX is dayum good. NAPA/Bosch all good.
Fram is bad....very bad....

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:yup: Wix is a good filter. And yes, stay away from Fram.

I know some people who still claim that Fram is the best, period. No matter what is shown to them, they still claim Fram is it and that's why they use it. Whenever filter talk comes up, they spout off about Fram being the best and that if you don't use it, you must be stupid or wasting your money, etc. I just tell them to keep using their Frams and I'll keep using what I use.

I guess some people listen to advertising as if it is divine scripture.

Well Gator....Fram used to be the best out there when they were made here in the states by Champion. Now of course they are cardboard glued together by WayHung Lo out in the back giggle weeds of Outer Southeastern BombCrater Rice PaddyVille or some such shit.....So folks just see Fram....know that is what Dad and Grandpa used for a kabillion miles on the old family car....and there you have it...branded imprinted sacked and delivered....
Sorta like that good looking cheerleader back in High School....you whack meat on her all day long...still have her perky lil ass and tits bouncing around imprinted in your brain all these years.....then you go to your 30th High School reunion and she looks like your Uncle Wilbur with no teeth....That would pretty much sum up the Fram story I do believe:)

OK-now I'm not going to my reunion!Anything else you gonna ruin for me?LMAO

Well put, Sarge. Yep, Fram was great quite a while back. Nice analogy with that cheeleader back in High School.:lmao:

New Heads/Cam/Pistons/Rods 1000 miles ago. Running Nitrous/forged bottom end. Brutal 1000 miles for sure. I ask the question on the viscosity to solicit an opinion of the lab tech:) .... I am very impressed with the wear numbers considering all the new parts and the conditions. I solicit your opinions/observations.....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6.../UOAMedium.jpg

Im also a oil junkie.....I change my oil every Sunday when I wash the T/A. I worked at a Autozone and "stored" a skid of GC 0w-30 in my garage for them...when I left they never asked for it back...maybe because they did'nt know I had it....anyway I ended up with 55 cases (12-1qt bottles)...660 qts....so I figure at 6 per week, I will have the whole skid gone in 2 years. It only takes 10 minutes and gives me a piece of mind, plus something to do with all that oil I have sitting there. I average between 40 and 250 miles between oil changes. The oil always comes out clean too. I change the filter every month, since I forgot to get them with my severance package from Autozone and I have to pay for them.

After reading all of that most people will say im crazy....but im not...im just bullshitting everyone. :haha:

I change my oil every 3k with GC 0w-30 and Mobil m-206 filter....gonna try the K&N next time....and I only have 12 qts of GC....but it feels like im running low:Popcorn:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 02 WS6

Im also a oil junkie.....I change my oil every Sunday when I wash the T/A. I worked at a Autozone and "stored" a skid of GC 0w-30 in my garage for them...when I left they never asked for it back...maybe because they did'nt know I had it....anyway I ended up with 55 cases (12-1qt bottles)...660 qts....so I figure at 6 per week, I will have the whole skid gone in 2 years. It only takes 10 minutes and gives me a piece of mind, plus something to do with all that oil I have sitting there. I average between 40 and 250 miles between oil changes. The oil always comes out clean too. I change the filter every month, since I forgot to get them with my severance package from Autozone and I have to pay for them.

After reading all of that most people will say im crazy....but im not...im just bullshitting everyone. :haha:

I change my oil every 3k with GC 0w-30 and Mobil m-206 filter....gonna try the K&N next time....and I only have 12 qts of GC....but it feels like im running low:Popcorn:

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This what 30-40 quarts of M03/M04 GC 0-30 looks like in real life:)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...tashMedium.jpg

The case of Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 arrived today. I'll change the oil in the next few days.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GatorSS

The case of Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 arrived today. I'll change the oil in the next few days.

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It's damn good stuff man....:usa:

Mobil 1 Synthetic in our TA. Nothing but the best

OK, I changed oil today and now I'm in Amsoil territory.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GatorSS

OK, I changed oil today and now I'm in Amsoil territory.

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Lets hear your thoughts/ observations man....what does the butt dyno say?:)

Well, I've got about 170 miles with Amsoil now. It's does sound a little different -- smoother, I'd say. ...like it's running easier. The butt dyno says it's stronger. I'll see over the next few tanks how the mileage compares, especially with a road trip coming up in a few days (about 1100 miles round trip). At this point, I am well pleased.:usa:

Yeah the butt dyno tells me there is an improvement over the dino oil but...no change in mileage. Over 238.4 miles I averaged 18mpg in normal city driving without going WOT once, which is pretty much the same as before. The car is throwing P0430 - cat codes now (some bank below threshold) which could be coincidence but I doubt it. It's not a big deal because they will be coming off in the near future anyway...

I really need to find time to diagnose this goddamn ticking noise...oh and the metal rattle (2 different sounds) :mad:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A

oh and the metal rattle (2 different sounds) :mad:

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I had a really bad metal rattle also...and guess what it was...






c'mon guess.....















the o2 sensors...the stock ones have a metal ring at the beginning of the wiring...the damn things were rattleing against the bottom on the o2 sensor:brick: I replaced all 4 with bosch 02's and it's quiet as a mofo now...some people think bosch o2's are shit but their half the price as the dealer ones and they work great so far :think:

Yeah that's what I expect it to be, especially after doing some more listening.

I also think my tapping sound could be an exhaust leak and not engine related...

So when I swap out my exhaust I hope to cure both issues at once.

Well I am currently running Mobil 1 5-30 with a Fram filter, but it looks like atleast part of that is changing real quickly. Fram evil needs to leave my baby now, but Mobil 1 can stay for now.

I didn't realize there were that many things to think about when changing your oil. Was kinda like well if the manufacturer says it is good i must be.

I am currently in stationed in Germany and was curious about the German Castrol everyone talks about. I guess it is kinda rare in the state? Is there something special I should look for when I go to the local parts store and buy Castrol? Don't know if I can get Amsoil shipped through the USPS over here.

Also with an unmodded LS1 what would my best move be to a 0-30 or something else. Nothing is better than getting out on the Autobahn and letting that 5.7 stretch her legs. However, I don't want my baby to crap out at 100+mph.

Thanks guys all the info on here is helping me a lot.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pet_monk

Well I am currently running Mobil 1 5-30 with a Fram filter, but it looks like atleast part of that is changing real quickly. Fram evil needs to leave my baby now, but Mobil 1 can stay for now.

I didn't realize there were that many things to think about when changing your oil. Was kinda like well if the manufacturer says it is good i must be.

I am currently in stationed in Germany and was curious about the German Castrol everyone talks about. I guess it is kinda rare in the state? Is there something special I should look for when I go to the local parts store and buy Castrol? Don't know if I can get Amsoil shipped through the USPS over here.

Also with an unmodded LS1 what would my best move be to a 0-30 or something else. Nothing is better than getting out on the Autobahn and letting that 5.7 stretch her legs. However, I don't want my baby to crap out at 100+mph.

Thanks guys all the info on here is helping me a lot.

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I'll answer the German Castrol issue first. Ol Patman got that "craze" started here in the States....it is a very unique PAO blend utilizing some never seen before UOA's ( Used Oil Analysis)....unreal wear numbers in LS1's.....of course Castrol being the slippery bastards they are....have a bullshit version of Castrol 0-30 made here in the states that in reality is a GrpII/III with some synthetic add packs....no better than Havoline dino oil IMHO but 3X the price...so we all have to run around AutoZones looking for Red Label Made In Germany bottles produced before 05......to further confuse the issue and pee on the GC parade...Castrol changed the mix of the German Castrol...so instead of the green elixer of the gods...suddenly in 03/05 it changes to Gold stuff....VOA (Virgin Oil Anlasys) confirms a change....so the jury is out if the "new" GC 0-30 is worth the $5 bucks a quart......
My personal opinion is Mobil 1 is as good as the 05 German Castrol 0-30....
As for the 0-30 viscosity...basically it is a thicker 30 weight than most 5-30's....LS1's like a thicker oil than 5-30's...many utilize 10-40/0-40/0-30...the 0 part allows much quicker flow at startup than the 5 viscosity....significant percentage of critical wear occurs at start up...so getting quality oil to those vital parts faster is a very good thing.....
Amsoil is a 100% synthetic and has superior cleaning/wear/flow/performance/extended drain numbers than most of the semi synthetics being marketed as full synthetics....but I'm not sure you can import nor would I even bother with all the great oils you have in Germany....
I'f I were you I would be utilizing Mobil1 5-40 or 0-40 with a AC Delco or KN oil filter....and let her rip there buddy....

Well thanks Sarge... looks like I need to go shoppin and do an oil change.

Hey Sarge;

While I am shopping for oils what would be the best fluid for my tranny and rear end? Was looking at the Mobil 1 Syn Dex III and hadn't found one for the rear end yet.

The only reason I am changing the fluid in the rear end is because after the military shipped my car over here the rear end started to leak, but not enough to drip yet. It has fluid all over the place and this weekend I am going to wash it off and see if the fluid shows back up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pet_monk

Hey Sarge;

While I am shopping for oils what would be the best fluid for my tranny and rear end? Was looking at the Mobil 1 Syn Dex III and hadn't found one for the rear end yet.

The only reason I am changing the fluid in the rear end is because after the military shipped my car over here the rear end started to leak, but not enough to drip yet. It has fluid all over the place and this weekend I am going to wash it off and see if the fluid shows back up.

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Rear End fluid....Royal Purple 85-140...best damn rear end fluid on the planet....friction modifiers are already in it......your choice of ATF is good.....be sure and pump the new fluid in ( talking your trannie here) versus drain and fill....drain and fill doesn't get the old fluid out of the converter etc.

Never done tranny fluid like that always done the drain and fill. How would I go about pumping it in. Rear end fluid is cool because i saw that at the local parts store.

Sarge,
Sounds like because of where he is stationed, may not have access to a flush type of fill. If that is the case, could always drop the pan (drain & re-install), re-fill the pan via the dip stick tube, disconnect the transmission return line from the radiator, start the car & pump the fluid from the lines & torque converter out one quart @ a time. If this method is chosen, be sure to only leave the car running long enough to drain one quart @ a time only. Re-fill the lost fluid through the dip stick tube & drain the next quart until the new fluid starts to come out. When finished reconnect the line from the radiator, check the level & you're done. If Mobil one is chosen, get type G.

Sarge, another question. Have you found Royal Purple to perform better than Red-line in the rear? Is 85-140 thin enough to climb the gears? Am asking 'cuz I have searched for something a little better for the rear end & it sounds like you have found the solution. How is Royal Purple with heat? Does it run cooler? Thank-you

Torque converter?? It is the six speed manual. FYI I am going to be replacing the clutch the same time I replace the tranny fluid. I am replacing the fluid, because the tranny is starting to shift a little notchy after having it shipped over here....

I think the kids that drove my car while in transport liked my little long skinny pedel.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pet_monk

Torque converter?? It is the six speed manual.

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Oops, Assumed an automatic transmission because a manual is so simple to change wouldn't think anyone would be asking about it & Sarge replied with "your choice of AFT.....". :think: Honest mistake.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sarge

Rear End fluid....Royal Purple 85-140...best damn rear end fluid on the planet....friction modifiers are already in it......your choice of ATF is good.....be sure and pump the new fluid in ( talking your trannie here) versus drain and fill....drain and fill doesn't get the old fluid out of the converter etc.

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Sarge said to pump in new fluid and not to drain and fill and I didn't catch the end. That is what happens when you are tired and trying to read. I have done fluid swaps on manuals before, and that is why I was like pump in new fluid?? Thought Sarge knew some super secret ninja trick that I hadn't learned yet.

Once I figured out you were both talking bout a auto I knew exactly what you were talking about, but have never actually done it. Was always to lazy with my autos to do them myself, they were all mercurys and lincolns so with the amount of fluid it took it was worth just letting a shop do them.

About the ATF that is what the manual calls for. Is there something better I should look at?

Thanks though

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sarge

Rear End fluid....Royal Purple 85-140...best damn rear end fluid on the planet....friction modifiers are already in it......

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:hmm: That good, eh? Anybody else using this? If it's that good, I think I might try it out myself....

Is there something other than Dex III I should think about putting in the tranny? Or is that the best?

Right now I have my E3 plugs and K&N oil filter on the way. The Mobil 1 0-40 is in the garage waiting for the the K&N. The Royal Purple 85-140 is right next to it waiting for me to get the car on a lift. I as of right now have a case of Mobil 1 Dex III on order.

After this I hope my baby feels like a new girl.

Mobil one

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LS1-450

Sarge, another question. Have you found Royal Purple to perform better than Red-line in the rear? Is 85-140 thin enough to climb the gears? Am asking 'cuz I have searched for something a little better for the rear end & it sounds like you have found the solution. How is Royal Purple with heat? Does it run cooler? Thank-you

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Sarge,

Figured you haven't see the question or maybe you've grown tired of this thread. Have asked about the 85-140 thickness because have seen tests where thicker oils kinda push off to the sides & don't climb the gears. Am asking about heat 'cuz my duals run about 1/2" away from either side of the rear end.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LS1-450

Sarge,

Figured you haven't see the question or maybe you've grown tired of this thread. Have asked about the 85-140 thickness because have seen tests where thicker oils kinda push off to the sides & don't climb the gears. Am asking about heat 'cuz my duals run about 1/2" away from either side of the rear end.

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Hell I'm sorry man...did not see it.....yeah my pipes clear the Harrop Diff Cover by about a 1/4 inch or the same size as Zboners Johnson.....I wrapped the pipes with header wrap to prevent them from 'cooking" the diff fluid.....I was a little concerned myself about the heavier oil......I had Amsoil in there....75-140....with the Amsoil Friction Modifier...had some chatter...and a little posi slippage when powering out of a corner....all that shit stopped the second I changed it out with the Royal Purple....as for the climbing and seperation...the VOA on the Royal Purple shows some outstanding VI...so I seriously doubt any seperation issues....Hell look at the cSt @100c...compared to the other leading synthetics....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...oyalpurple.jpg

Where do those numbers come from?

why does my name always come up in every post?????????????????????????????????????????????? ???????????????????????????????

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A

Where do those numbers come from?

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Manufacturers spec sheets.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sarge

Hell I'm sorry man...did not see it.....yeah my pipes clear the Harrop Diff Cover by about a 1/4 inch.....I was a little concerned myself about the heavier oil......I had Amsoil in there....75-140....with the Amsoil Friction Modifier...had some chatter...and a little posi slippage when powering out of a corner....all that shit stopped the second I changed it out with the Royal Purple....as for the climbing and seperation...the VOA on the Royal Purple shows some outstanding VI...so I seriously doubt any seperation issues....

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Cool, thanks for the response.

The best motor oil out there period is Amsoil. Benn running the stuff for many a yr. and so have most of my friends. Not 1 single problem with it, use it in everything I own and all fluids not just engine oil in the cars. Transmissions reaer end etc. Would not put broken down Dinosaur shit in my car ever again.

Royal Purple all around!!

where do you buy amsoil?? I've never seen it at any autopart store.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SeVeReDiStOrTiOn

where do you buy amsoil?? I've never seen it at any autopart store.

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It is not sold in chains. Dealers only.

Oil change place I go to uses Quaker State Synthetic, I've never had any problems with it, but I've read it is in the group 3 of oils. Is Quaker crap or should I just stick with it?

Zboner

Quaker is crap so is Castrol, Mobil 1 is your best bet if you go with and over the counter motor oil. But I would look in your phone book and find the Amsoil man and start using that, also an amsoil filter. You say the oil change place? If you do not have the place or the equipment and tools then let someone else change your oil, but I would want to personally know that nothing got messed up by some punk making minimun wage who does not care about your car changing your oil. But if you can't then I understand just take the oil and filter of choice with you next time and tell them this is what you would like for them to use and install on you vehicle.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hurley711

Oil change place I go to uses Quaker State Synthetic, I've never had any problems with it, but I've read it is in the group 3 of oils. Is Quaker crap or should I just stick with it?

Zboner

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I would not stick with the Quaker State if I were you. :no:

The place I go to is respected around here for a few reasons. They've been there FOREVER. All they do is oil changes and other fluid changes. They top off all your fluids which I like. And you stand right there 2 feet from them so you can make sure they are doing a good job. Also they have a patent on a machine which blows out all the sludge and old oil whcih sits in the bottom of the pan after it is drained, so you start with a fresh oil that doesn't get mixed with anything left in the pan. I was thinking about bringing Mobil 1 with me next time, maybe I will.

A patent on a machine that blows all the sludge out huh? You mean a patent on a machine that flushes the shit in the bottom of the pan out....I do the same thing with a quart of Havoline after I drain the oil...it is called flushing the pan...varnish and sludge build up in places no flushing will touch...but it is good marketing.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nufkts

Quaker is crap so is Castrol, Mobil 1 is your best bet if you go with and over the counter motor oil.

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Please post the voa's that you have that have led you to the conclusion that Castrol is crap.

Amen Bro...Castrol is not crap at all...Mobil 1 has created some marketing zombies to talk crap though. I'll go better than a VOA...let us see some UOA's to back that up....
Now folks...Mobil 1 is some fine stuff..but so is a lot of other oils....depends on what you got...where you drive...what kind of driving you do.....lots of caveats....
Here...I'll play the internet blanket statement game....and I will back it up with UOA's.....
I'll begin...Mobil 1 thins out of grade.

how about schaeffers oil?

:yup: I've heard that Mobil 1 thins out a little after a while, but it's still darn good oil, although somewhat overpriced. I used it for many years. Schaeffers evidently is great oil, from what I've seen and heard from a friend and his euro-import racer friends (and a few others), but I've never used it myself. I'm sure Sarge will chime in with more information about Schaeffers, he's seen more VOAs and UOAs than probably all of us combined.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bumdroid

how about schaeffers oil?

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Damn good stuff....the question is not which oil is the best....cuz there is no answer to that question....the question is which oil is best for me...my motor...my driving habits....OCI.....climate...geographical terrain....
If I drive a 600 RWHP street beast every two weeks to town and back....synthetics are probably not for me....unless I change oil in that street beast twice a year....for folks who drive around normal like....getting on it every so often.....change their oil every 3-5 thousand miles....hell a good dino is just fine.....but...and that is a big but.....same folks will get better performance from a synthetic.....with the same OCI's..higher cost for sure....but will get better performance.....now the argument will be engine longevity.....who cares?
Bottom line is....you can run a high dollar synthetic....have OCI's of 3-5K and that is no problem...you can also go mouse hunting with a shotgun....mouse is still dead and your engine is still just fine on synthetics and 3-5K OCI's.....you can also be just fine with say Havoline 10-40 dino and a .22 pistol...your engine is still fine and the mouse is still dead as hell....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sarge

Amen Bro...Castrol is not crap at all...Mobil 1 has created some marketing zombies to talk crap though. I'll go better than a VOA...let us see some UOA's to back that up....

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That was gonna be my next question depending on his response. Was gonna play with him a bit....you know, he being an internet expert & all. :lmao:


BTW, I like the mouse analogy you made above....pretty funny & a point well made.

...poor little mouse...but good analogy and post.

Sarge---point of my post since you missed it was this. I don't change the oil myself because I don't have the time/tools needed. Most places around here drain and just dump new oil on top of the old sludge and shit. I stated that I like this place because, patent bullshit or not, at least they get all of the sludge and old shit out before adding clean oil. Point of my original post which I have one answer to is this....is Quaker State synthetic good oil or should I consider bringing my own oil next time?

If your changing your oil every 3-5K QS Synthetic is fine.....it isn't going to hurt your engine....
I would be remiss if I failed to mention it is overpriced for a GRP 111 oil though.....
you get much better add packs etc. with Valvoline Synthetic or Mobil 1 for the same price....

Is it true that Quaker is a Syntetic "Blend" ...if so what is the diff.? Is it watered down synthetic for lack of a better term?

Hey Hurley....yup....you can thank Castrol for the "confusion".....and to make it worse...Mobil 1 is the one that sued them! And lost of course...so know we have yahoo's running around claiming synthetic that wouldn't even pass the synthetic smell test in Europe.....OK...I'll give it a shot.....
MC = molecular conversion (Group II, II+, and III). "Molecular conversion" for hydrocracked base oils involves the manipulation of the feedstock (the VGO from the distiller) at the molecular level through catalytic processes which result in the destruction of aromatics, sulphur, and other impurities as well as the conversion of the wax elements into oil. The end result is a base oil with only trace levels of impurities. For wax isomerate base oils "molecular conversion" involves the conversion of the feedstock (slack wax, waxy raffinate, or other wax byproducts) into a fully saturated base oil with no detectable levels of impurities.
The above group consist of the Valvolines, Quaker State, Castrol, Pennzoil etc. "synthetics"......I use that word loosely....
MS = molecular synthesis (Group IV PAO, EOP, GTL and Group V esters). "Molecular synthesis" involves the polymerization of smaller feedstock molecules into more complex structures. PAO, EOP, GTL, and esters are all produced this way using various catalytic and chemical processes. In the case of PAO, EOP, and GTL the result is a chemically pure synthetic hydrocarbon base oil with zero levels of impurities. Esters are equally pure but are not synthetic hydrocarbon. This group is real synthetic oil....the likes of Mobil 1, Amsoil, Schaffers, Red Line, Royal Purple etc. are in this group.
I know I am leaving out and avoiding a shitload of arguments here...but this is the base/gut of the synthetic debate....In Europe...only the last group can label their oil as synthetics....in the US both groups can call their stuff synthetics....when they really are not......hope I have helped and not confused you man....

mobil 1 0w40

Thinking about going a little thicker next time to quiet things down...

Sarge, i'm confused about a lot of Amsoil's products...they have multiple 10-40s, 0-40s, 10-30s, whatever...

I thought about upping to an oil that gets thicker when hot...so 0-40 or 5-40...but am confused as to which is which? They have a few it looks like...not sure what I would go with for next oil change (next fall).

Yeah I know...different TBN blah blah....If you want thicker....the European 5-40 would be a great match....I have used the 10-40 High Performance with great results also....the EU 5-40 has a significant add pack....

Would 0-40 mobil 1...be ok for my LT1...with winter comming up.
I found it at an R&S strauss over here or should I use another weight?