here is a pretty cool site. its a keislar speed analyzer enter in your info and it will tell you the speeds and rpm Silver Sport Transmissions - Speed Analyzer
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here is a pretty cool site. its a keislar speed analyzer enter in your info and it will tell you the speeds and rpm Silver Sport Transmissions - Speed Analyzer
^^^^ Thanks that was cool I was able to compare the two ratios as well as found out that my Borg Warner T56 is the same ratio as the Tremec 2.66 I was able to imput different rear gear ratios and compare speeds at different RPM's. So I'm thinking the 2.66 is ideal for street and would think 2.97 would be better for road racing. At 6,000 RPM's the 2.97 is 4-9 mph slower 1st-3rd and 49mph slower in 6th. So to Cruze at 70 mph in 6th with 4.11's with a 2.97 you would need 2,400 RPM's compared to 1,900 with a 2.66...with my 3.42's chart showes 70 mph @ 1,600 RPM's and that is right where it runs.....this is JMO
painted the engine bay to match the rest of the car, not perfect but close, candy is so hard to work with!http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps23f88ca2.jpghttp://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps022ed147.jpg
I wish you were closer to where I am...I'd pay you to paint my car. You do great work.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnyman
Looks good I had a street bike that was candy Jupiter Orange and painted a few things though color but I loved it
I got my rear bumper back from paint, and installed it, I got really energetic and washed and waxed the car too. Last week I installed new rotors and pads up front, flushed the coolant, and changed the rear dif fluid. I'm starting to miss my old Mustang already :rl:
Don't think this is the best opening statement on a GM site!Quote:
Originally Posted by McGinnis
Anyhow welcome to the site glad to see you made a great decision in upgrading your auto. You got yourself a great platform that won't disappoint.
cant tell if he's a troll or serious... :dunno:
I have always been a Ford guy, but have always had a soft sport for 4th gen Firebirds and 04-06 GTO's. I never could afford a nice one, and I finally ran across a good deal on a low mileage Bird, that had been rear ended, but still had a clean title. I have slowly been fixing the the car on the side, but it's been frustrating finding parts, and everything seems engineered to be more complicated then it should be. But damn that ls1 is one sweet engine. I had to install a new rear bumper, and rear filler panel, and fix the bulging front fender where they bent the pinch weld. and maintenance, it still had the original windshield wipers haha. I got the car for $4,000 with 32,000 miles. Now I am about $4,600 in it including parts. The rear bumper support bracket is still crunched in a little underneath, but not worth fixing. It's a 1999 Formula with an auto, leather, and power stuff, t-tops, and a working 12 disk changer. The other owner had tinted windows, and a different muffler, otherwise it's bone stock down to the air filter.
Welcome! Sounds like a good buy. Any car that is now 15 years old is going to need a little TLC. At least out your way, that evil monster known as "rust" isn't as much of an issue as it is here in the Northeast.
Observed the puddle of oil leaking from the rear main on the floor of my garage... Put the cover back on and prayed it was dream that it's not winter...
rear main seal :suicide: so much work for a $20 gasket...Quote:
Originally Posted by bhunter0830
Im going to have mine replaced when I swap clutches in the spring even if its not leaking...might as well.
What I thought was a rear main on our car turned out to be the oil pan gasket.
^^^could be that or oil sending unit or PCV pipe broken in the back of the intake running down the back of the motor or all three like I had. I change my rear seal when I did my clutch but it was dry. When I did my intake swap I found the PCV pipe broken just like you see so much of so I went with a LS6 valley cover as it has a better breather and it was cheaper than replacing the original PCV piping and replaced the oil pressure sender. still have a few drips from the pan gasket but only a few drips, I can live with it for now.
Rear main seal leaks don't exist on LS engines. 99.9% of the time it's the oil pan, oil pressure sensor, loose oil filter, loose drain plug, or the oil cooler pipe/ pipe block-off. PCV is another possibility.
I always garage mine but I try to avoid putting the cover on it to soon in the late fall in hopes of taking it out decent days BUT the weather here in Md. has been crap and it actually snowed enough yesterday to lay and down went the salt so on went the cover ... so sad. I set it up earlier this year to auto-cross it and all it needs now is better brakes over stock - any suggestions on brand and type of rotor ?? I've heard good and bad about drilled. This'll be my winter project.
R1 Concepts Online Shopping - Shop for OEM Rotors, Slotted Rotors, Cross Drilled Rotor, Cross Drilled And Slotted Rotors,Brake pads,Other items
These are what a lot of guys run on here also they are a site sponser and run some specials for us you can find more info here.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f5/r1conce...ml#post2909185
I don't have them yet but they are on the wish list others can chime in on what they bought or like.
I run their premium slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads on our car. The improvement in stopping power was awesome and they look great too.
x2 with that. same setup hereQuote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
I run their premium drilled rotors with hawk hp+ pads. They told me it is the perfect setup for road racing so that is what I am running. I would do slotted too but with my c6 zO6 rotors in the front you can't get them in slotted variants so it wouldn't match the rears.
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps26def3c8.jpg