I'm a Oil Junkie

Sludge is not caused by Moly[/B]....Sludge is caused by dirt/water/oxidation and an oils inability to clean and suspend the crap until it gets to the filter. I'd Auto RX that bad boy ( easy/cheap/very effective) [url]http://www.auto-rx.com
and go like hell from there....during the cleaning/rinse cycle only use a dino oil...after that go with whatever oil you want. Quit hanging around "some people" they dont know shit....I bet they are confusing Moly with Teflon and the old STP days.....or they may just go through life confused....I dunno....who knows:)


I really do not know either, that is why I am asking around. The newer vehicle I saw was a 2002 Silverado with the 5.3 engine. The owner says he changed the oil ever 3-4k miles and took care of it.

The mechanic working on it was a younger guy and was telling a group of us that moly does create sludge. When I told him that I was reading good things about moly, he said you are you going to trust, people that go by UOA's and what they read on the internet or people that work on these engines every day and see the damage that it can cause.

Oh well, I guess I will stay with Valvoline, my Chevelle has 230,000 miles on Valvoline and no problems yet.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Sarge, how does that stuff compair to the Amsoil engine flush?

Problem with solvent based engine flushes like Gunk and stuff is simple....they are (a) very abrasive and are not good for seals/gaskets at all (b) chunks of "stuff" break off and clog your oil pick up tube then you gotta pull your pan and clean all that crap out of there....Auto RX slowly dissolves varnish/sludge....suspends it and delivers it to your oil filter.....this is why an Auto RX cleaning last for a few thousand mile ....Cleaning Phase is like 1500 miles and rinse phase is 2000 miles...during this time not only is the crap dissolved slowly...but your gaskets and seals are getting much need "oils" to make 'em swell and soft again....versus the solvent based stuff is like 15 minutes at idle.....Auto RX is the way to go....no doubt....

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Originally Posted by Laguna S-3

Sludge is not caused by Moly[/b]....Sludge is caused by dirt/water/oxidation and an oils inability to clean and suspend the crap until it gets to the filter. I'd Auto RX that bad boy ( easy/cheap/very effective) [url]http://www.auto-rx.com
and go like hell from there....during the cleaning/rinse cycle only use a dino oil...after that go with whatever oil you want. Quit hanging around "some people" they dont know shit....I bet they are confusing Moly with Teflon and the old STP days.....or they may just go through life confused....I dunno....who knows:)


I really do not know either, that is why I am asking around. The newer vehicle I saw was a 2002 Silverado with the 5.3 engine. The owner says he changed the oil ever 3-4k miles and took care of it.

The mechanic working on it was a younger guy and was telling a group of us that moly does create sludge. When I told him that I was reading good things about moly, he said you are you going to trust, people that go by UOA's and what they read on the internet or people that work on these engines every day and see the damage that it can cause.

Oh well, I guess I will stay with Valvoline, my Chevelle has 230,000 miles on Valvoline and no problems yet.

Thanks for your thoughts.

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That guy is clueless...."who are you going to trust, people that go by UOA's and what they read on the internet or people that work on these engines every day and see the damage that it can cause...." well I'll take a UOA reflecting metal wear and TBN over his "observations" any old day...often times a bad PCV valve causes sludge due the oxidation....a poor fitting air filter or lack of good air filter replacement cycles cause sludge....but to say Moly causes sludge is like me saying carrots cause cancer....just insane.....guy is an idiot....clueless....what definitive analysis does he have to back up his "observations" with fact? If I see a hole burnt in the top of a piston and ask the guy what brand of gasoline he uses and he says Texaco.....and then another burnt piston comes in and he uses Texaco...do I just make the assumption Texaco gas is causing the problem? Nope...A/F is probably causing the problem......on top of that tell your buddy to show me the Moly contents in Havoline anyway....Havoline full synthetic 10-30 only has 23 parts of Moly per MM anyway!!!!! Get his ass on here and let me have a go at the youngster.....no flame wars....just definitive fact....tell him to bring a sack lunch.

[QUOTE=Sarge]Nope...A/F is probably causing the problem......

What is A/F?

Like I said, I have never used Pennzoil, Havoline or Quaker State so I do not know if they will sludge up an engine or not. I just know that different people think different things, that is why I ask several different people.

Do you know anything about Scaeffers oil, good or bad?

Air/Fuel ratio

i switched to synthetic about a year ago but a mech. down at the chevy dealer told me not to use it until i got more miles has anybody else been told this?

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Originally Posted by bmyers

i switched to synthetic about a year ago but a mech. down at the chevy dealer told me not to use it until i got more miles has anybody else been told this?

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Well I am breaking in the 402 Stroker now....running Castrol GTX 10-40 to get everything to settle down.....I'll run it about 5 hours on the engine change oil and filters ( Dual remote Perma Cool's) and do it again....after about 10 hours we are going to Cosworth 10-40....

any oil good for not being consumed? I'm using Mobil 1 5w-30 and my TB was sludged up last time I checked.

i played around with different oils to try and find one that doesn't run through so fast.mixing 4 qts 10-30 with 2 qts 15-40 pennzoil cuts oil consumption to almost zero.using 5-30 i use 1qt every 1-2k. one other problem i think is weird is the easier we drive the car the more oil it uses,if we drive it hard it uses nothing.drive all day long steady @ 55mph and it will suck 1qt in 400-500 miles.

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Originally Posted by myk02k

any oil good for not being consumed? I'm using Mobil 1 5w-30 and my TB was sludged up last time I checked.

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You need an oil catch can.....that is not a oil viscosity/brand issue....that is a GM design issue....here....
http://www.accmachtech.com/pcvcatchcans.htm

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Originally Posted by YoMommasTA

i played around with different oils to try and find one that doesn't run through so fast.mixing 4 qts 10-30 with 2 qts 15-40 pennzoil cuts oil consumption to almost zero.using 5-30 i use 1qt every 1-2k. one other problem i think is weird is the easier we drive the car the more oil it uses,if we drive it hard it uses nothing.drive all day long steady @ 55mph and it will suck 1qt in 400-500 miles.

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Yup...putting a load on the rings ( cylinder pressure) will reduce oil consumption....that is why I subscribe to the theory of " drive it like you stole it" to break a new motor in....these guys who drive a new engine like an old lady never truly seat the rings....stomp that thing man...

i agree totaly,except the only thing i put my load on anymore is my computer screen:lol:

what the hell... why do we need a catch can?? I don't understand why the LS1 would be DESIGNED to spit oil up like that...

It wasn't DESIGNED to do that, it was an effect of their design, it was fixed with the LS6 PCV system

so, depending on how hard (lateral acceleration-wise,) it's completely normal to be low a quart of oil by the time you need to change it?

I never had a problem with oil consumption after i switched to amsoil

but that tends to be the norm

wow, I've never driven a car that burns oil that still has good seals...

thing is, I've never seen smoke out the pipes...

you'll never see it out the pipes.cats burn so hot nothing gets out alive.