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So this is the fuel pump that should be here in the next week or so. But apparently it doesn't come with the hobbs switch or hotwire kit like I thought it did. Does anyone know where I can get those or where I can send it to have them wire those in for a plug and play double fuel pump in a 98 F-body, well once I get the fuel line kit but I know where to get that.
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps75510e4e.jpg
Racetronix should be able to outfit you with anything you need for the setup. Lonnies Performance is another place that I know does custom pump setups.Quote:
Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6
I may have to call Racetronix if Lonnie won't do it for a pump that isn't his. I emailed Lonnie and am now a waiting a response. Once I get the wiring stuff done all I need for my fuel system is the SS lines.
Welp, even the 350 ft lb impact wouldn't budge it either. Looks like I'll have to do it the old fashioned way. I think I'll keep the impact however for future use, it came with a nice case and 7 sockets as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Decadence75
Yeah that factory loctite or whatever is pretty tough hence the reason I got the one I have. I would have thought 350 ft lbs would remove it though. Either way it will be useful on other stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by Decadence75Welp, even the 350 ft lb impact wouldn't budge it either. Looks like I'll have to do it the old fashioned way. I think I'll keep the impact however for future use, it came with a nice case and 7 sockets as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Decadence75
I don't recommend doing this very often, but I have done this in the past with pesky bolts that don't wanna come loose. I take a chain and go through the stock crank pulley and bolt it to a bolt on the suspension or frame. this will hold the crank pulley in place so you can bust the bolt loose. Just be careful not to crank on the pulley to hard and bend it. I have done this twice with no issues BEFORE I got my ingersoll ran 600 ft lb air impact gun.Quote:
Originally Posted by Decadence75
The motor is a shortblock on a stand. I'll just put the flexplate back on and lock it down with a tool I have that bolts where the starter goes. That's how I did it when I cammed the original motor that's in their now. I was just being lazy ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by RONS98TA
Swapped out the MAP sensor that I believe was causing the engine to miss alot recently. Also found out that the LTFT on are riding around +22 on both banks so the system is just dumping fuel at cruise.
http://www.red2kta.com/carblog/wp-co...n-1024x768.jpg
Gotcha. I didn't know the motor wasn't in the car. Def not hard to put a flywheel tool on it that way! LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Decadence75
Dual fuel pump. I am trying to decide whether I want to run a hobbs or not. I will be running e85 so I am not sure if the dual fuel pumps running will heat the fuel up too much like it will with regular gasoline since e85 has a cooling affect. Also if I do run a hobbs switch I am not exactly sure what to set it to so it kicks on when needed.
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps37cc6caf.jpg
My 6.0 block with a finished bore of 4.03 arrived today.
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps0c677878.jpg
Fixed my window...wasnt that hard to do once I got everything lined up like it should be...hopefully this holds up so I dont have to make a metal plate.
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...pscb36876a.jpg
The window now seals like it should :woot2:
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...psa44127bc.jpg
Where did you get the instructions to do this replacement and what motor do you recommend?
Sold my old WS6 wheels and was planning on a fast intake but my dash decided to crack so guess I'll get that first.
I ordered ARP head studs for my new block. They were almost $100 cheaper at the WS6TORE than Summit Racing. I didn't expect that much of a price difference.
that wasnt a motor replacement...it was the regulator that was messing up. Whoever had my car previously "which was only 1 person" did not re-align everything correctly and just added bolts to it instead of washers or rivets so it tore away the fiberglass in the door over time...I've heard its a fairly common issue, but this is what it looked like before I fixed it...as you can tell, the bolts were about an inch lower than they should have been because it was destroying the fiberglass in the door...Quote:
Originally Posted by 024mula
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps7ba2457b.jpg
im new on this site, but i ordered a dash mat, and it should b here tonight, so it will get installed
You can use the instructions on the AutoTrix web site AutoTrix Install Instructions . This is also the company that makes the kit to provide full voltage to your passenger side window motor so it doesn't fail.Quote:
Originally Posted by 024mula
that fix is amazing by the way...just throwing that out there...Quote:
Originally Posted by sjgreen6
A little spring cleaning
Before......
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0e73140d.jpg
After
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9764ab3c.jpg
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8c384294.jpg
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/...ps68016711.jpg
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/...psc347c27d.jpg
I've heard people say KYB (Keeps You Bouncing)........
I can't agree with their analogy/catch-phrase. You can dial in your ride. (AGX only)
Sticks like glue and handles better then the stock set-up I had. No Bouncing here!!!!
A very comfortable ride too
NO COMPLAINTS!