I'm a Oil Junkie

Well lets see......On an "oil expert" board.......or should I say not a LS1 board.....
I invited this fella here.....I think he is tired of the very internet expert bullshit....so I share with you...I wont link to the other board...I think most of you folks can figure it out.....The string............
Hello,
I really like your GTO! That is a Sweet ride! I noticed you posted in MY LS1 Used oil analysis topic. I paied Terry to look at it every time but I'm being told every time my wear #'s are high because of fuel dilution. I had the Dealer check for everything and they said fuel trim levels are great and everything is normal. I have been using GC for a while now wil poor results.
What oil do you think would be good in my LS1? I'm about to the point to where I will start to mod my car(2002 Z28). Looks like you know what you are doing in the mod dept! What have you doen to your car and what would you reccomend I start with? Thanks! Chris ................

Me ( The Old Fart)
Hey Chris...firstly...I dont put much value on Terry and his "thoughts" as they pertain to engines....He is comparing your LS1 to a fricking 4 cylinder Toyota and making those remarks.....but I digress....your wear numbers are high because your engine flat doesnt care for a 30 weight.....Seriously...I would try Castrol GTX 10-40 or Pennzoil 10-40 with about 6-7 oz of Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment in there......(or about half the 15oz bottle).....go 3-4K and I gurantee you will have an excellent UOA....I run Shell Rotella 15-40 with excellent results....beat the crap out of Amsoil UOA's and GC UOA's....The mods on the GTO...well that is a very lengthy list...crank/pistons/rods/piston rings/heads/cam/intakes/valves/valve springs/trannie/driveshaft/springs/shocks/rear ends etc.etc.etc.....puts down over 600RWHP as she sits.....the rear view mirror is stock...that's about it...we all hang out over at ls1.com....I'm known as Sarge there...stop on by...

Him...............
Hi Sarge,
I'm starting to doubt Terry as well. I do everything he tels me to and my UOA'so not improve! I'm tired of paying him $40 to tell me info that does not work. He told me I'm getting high wear because of fuel dilution even though no fuel was found in the oil. He said my coils, sparkplugs, PVC ect were all shot and worn out at 30,000 miles. Had the dealer check them all out and they said the car was running like a champ, fuel trim levels were all 100% good. When I told him this he said the dealer was wrong. I'm not going to use him any longer as I have to much doubt in him now.
I like castrol GTX. It has given me extreemly low wear in my 1997 Tahoe 350(Iron 4, Chromium 1, Aluminum 3, Copper 2, Lead 3, ect in 3,000 miles consistantly! I dont think you can beat that in a 350.
Should I stick with a Synthetic or go Dino with 3,000 mile changes? What other oil would be a good choice for my LS1? Mobil 1 5w40, Castrol GTX 5w40, Halvoilne? My lowest UOA was with regular dino Halvoline right after the engine was rebuilt under warranty for oil burning, it looked like this: Iron 9, Aluminium 2, Chromium 1, Copper 52, Lead 4.
Thanks alot!

Me............
Well friend.....you are a victim of the internet "dogpile"......this guy is full of **** and this guy is an "expert".....this oil is friking great and this oil is ****...."if you love your car you will only use synthetics".....
listen son...and I mean this....you put Castrol GTX 10-40 in your LS1...you get a bottle of Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment from AutoZone or NAPA....NAPA will order it for you ....you fill your ride with whatever the normal fill is....6 qts or whatever and add the VSOT 8ozs to it.....you run that for 3K or even 4K......send a sample to BlackStone Labs.....$20 bucks....
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
Here it is....if that UOA doesnt come back with the numbers that beat the **** out of your previous numbers you can blast my *** on all the web sites....ls1.com ....BITOG all of em....I'm no internet ********...just a knucklehead who loves fast cars and knows oil.....**** them internet expert sum biatches....

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Well...he is a good kid and a victim of yet more internet bullshit.....let's see what happens....and will you knuckleheads be good for once...this is a fellow LS1'r!!!
Merry Christmas to you lil shits by the way......go change your oil and STFU...

all thoes lil lables on teh oild bottles are crap,
suv,truck, and mini van
eurapien (sp)
new car
older car
5-30 is 5-30 and extera dont let thoes things fool you
if you want syntetic 5-40 and if it says made for germen cars its b.s its syn 5-40

My LS1 gets Royal Purple Synthetic.
My grocery getter minivan gets dino.
My commuter (25K+ p/year) gets blended dino/synthetic off the shelf.
All get WIX filters and all get changed every 3K miles.

Just switched to Mobil 1 this morning:yup:

Amsoil 0w-30 in every engine I have, including my generator and change it once a year. Amsoil fluids in every thing else except power steering,'cause they don't make it yet. So, I'm still using Redline synthetic power steering fluid. I also use Valvoline syntetic brake fluid in my truck.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sarge

The University of UnderTheFuckingHood :)
My degree isn't engineering.....but I have spent some time in the area of oil and it's abilities/reactions to the internal combustion engine that is for damn sure. The purpose of this string (to me anyway) is to get folks thinking/researching and learning...this prevents some INTERNET expert to come along and tell us all about the next best thing.....and they do on a daily basis....

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:yup: :thumbup: A++ Sarge...great info and your purpose is right on the mark. Thinking/researching and learning is critical and you've done a fine job on this thread nurturing it (no matter what Zboner says). All your oil "soup" research is incredibly helpful, much more so than all those self-proclaimed "experts" trolling around.

And everyone else (just the big people), keep the questions/comments coming.

What kinda filters do yall use? I use ACDELCO or K+N for oil, and K+N for air

I use AC-Delco Duraguard Gold, cause I bought 2 cases of them just before they stopped making them for oil filters and I use the Donaldson re-cleanable for air.

I am using M1 0w-40 in my 99 Z71, works great with no consumption.

Chris

Always used Mobile 1

Can you mix oil weights? I have a whole case of RP 10-30 and everyone seems to be agreeing that 40 weights are better for the LS1.

I ask because it's been burning oil lately. Tomorrow I'll be replacing the PCV and installing a filter/trip inline to the TB but using a thicker oil apparently helps too, from what I read.

I am using 0w-40 for my 5.3L truck and it seems to burn more than with 5w-30 which was almost nil. I would suggest 5w-40 to start and see how that goes. I guess you could mix what you have with maybe two or so quarts of 10w-40 or 5w-40 and see how that goes.

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Originally Posted by Tobynine9

Can you mix oil weights? I have a whole case of RP 10-30 and everyone seems to be agreeing that 40 weights are better for the LS1.

I ask because it's been burning oil lately. Tomorrow I'll be replacing the PCV and installing a filter/trip inline to the TB but using a thicker oil apparently helps too, from what I read.

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RP 10-30 has shown to shear down to a lighter viscosity...this shearing is not found in any of the RP Racing Oils.....
Now before I threw out perfectly good RP 10-30 I would AUto RX that motor...use Castrol 10-30 dino oil for the cleaning and rinse cycles...then go back to your RP 10-30 and see where we are at....how long have you been running RP 10-30? Many times a good synthetic will clean the seals and a leak sprouts up or the piston rings get free allowing blow by and a engine begins burning oil....I would also check your PCV valve...blow through it....is it restrictive? Crankcase pressure will cause oil "back burnning" in the cylinders....

I've been running the RP 10-30 for about... 6k miles. No leaks from any external seals. The sooty, stinky exhaust has ceased since I replaced the PCV valve and installed an AMW catch can. When I disconnected the line from the PCV to the intake, oil dripped from the male end of the intake connection.

The previous owner put nothing but Mobil 1 5-30 in it, per conventional lay wisdom.

I just SeaFoamed it yesterday. It's already running smoother. I'll be sure to SeaFoam again when the mosquitoes have done their annual reinfestation.

So, I'll include an auto-rx cycle before/with the next oil change and use Castrol dino oil. I have no real intention of simply throwing away $70 worth of RP 10-30. That's why I ask if it's ok to mix and if so, what would be a recommended combination? I do use VSOT.

Anybody? Anything to mix with the RP 10-30 to compensate for the shearing breakdown?

Also, do y'all recirculate the oil caught in your AMW cans or do you just throw it out? Less than 500 miles since the install and I'm already looking at 1/2" of oil in the bottom of the darn thing.

any updates on the new GC 0W30. I just picked up the last 10 quarts at autozone and wanted to know how it did. If it's still the good stuff then I will continue looking for more.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tobynine9

Anybody? Anything to mix with the RP 10-30 to compensate for the shearing breakdown?

Also, do y'all recirculate the oil caught in your AMW cans or do you just throw it out? Less than 500 miles since the install and I'm already looking at 1/2" of oil in the bottom of the darn thing.

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I save up my oil out of the catch can and pour it down my neighbors well...she is an asshole.....
Yes...1 oz of Valvoline Synthetic Oil Treatment....to each quart of oil...
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=21
Absolutely the finest oil additive there is...big dose of Moly...damn good stuff....
Get it at Auto Zone or NAPA....my NAPA orders it for me....it will keep you in grade and reduce friction significantly.....pour it on your Fruit Loops....it is the real deal....

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Originally Posted by Judge Smales

any updates on the new GC 0W30. I just picked up the last 10 quarts at autozone and wanted to know how it did. If it's still the good stuff then I will continue looking for more.

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Yeah...the VOA's look good....strong additive packs for sure....I havent seen a UOA on it yet...but the VOA's look like a very strong 0-30....
By the way...I just sold 42 quarts of the 04 ( Green Stuff) to a guy for $3.50 a quart.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sarge

Yeah...the VOA's look good....strong additive packs for sure....I havent seen a UOA on it yet...but the VOA's look like a very strong 0-30....
By the way...I just sold 42 quarts of the 04 ( Green Stuff) to a guy for $3.50 a quart.....

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So is the green stuff still better? I just picked up a 1999 SS Convertible which is all stock with a castrol syntec sticker from the factory under the hood. Will the new GC 0W30 be ok in it?

Oh yeah.....no doubt....it has the exact same characteristics ( Viscosity/friction modifiers/cleaning agents etc.) as the green stuff....run it with no worries at all....