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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapper2003
Place one probe on your negative terminal. Alternate the other probe between the temp sender housing and something on your block or heads that is a known good ground. Compare your readings to see if probing the sender housing results in a higher ohm reading (more resistance).
Zap I'd look for where the grounds are and make sure they're clean of corrosion before you do anytesting
Ahhh...no work today. I can relax. Gotta wash the car though.
:nilly: but there are so many grounds on these things!
:lol:
It very well could be well worth it in the end:haha:Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapper2003
I've had 2 off just doing what I have done, the one below the coil and the one right above the battery on the pass. side. Wonder where the rest are?
Back of the driver's side head bottom of the passenger side of the block I believe driver's side frame rail to bottom of the block. I think LT1s share those. I know the back of the headQuote:
Originally Posted by Zapper2003
Just added two more cabinets to the garage, did a bunch of re-arranging, and a lot of cleaning. It's good to be able to see my workbench again!
I filled a 30 yr dumpster a few days ago. My barn is now open. So nice to have the TA parked almost sideways and work on it. I want a lift so fucking bad, im sick of jacking this car up 5 times a week.Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeff02
On the grounding problem. I didnt read into it, but a Power Probe is seriously the best electrical tool you can buy. You hook it directly up to a 12/24V source (battery).... You can then apply a KNOWN perfect 12V or ground anywere you want. I love mine, just used it two days ago.
Just checked it out: http://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-Ul.../dp/B000KPU8MK
Have never seen one before -- I use a standard test light and a digital multi-meter. Will have to look into this as chasing electrical gremlins is actually one of my favorite things to troubleshoot on a vehicle.
Wow, thats a good deal. I paid 160 I think. :(
It really is, the best... end all be all tool for diagnosing
FINALLY washed my car after, oh, three weeks of sitting in my driveway. Plus the dust from Lebanon Valley Dragway. Ugh!!
What did you run?
Didn't stage. Was the first run EVER in the GTO. Friend said I spun a lil off the line.
RT: .660
60: 2.413
ET: 14.419@99.15
That 60' is killing you. You only made one pass? :lol: I could never do that! What have you dyno'd at?Quote:
Originally Posted by cammed goat
343rwhp/328rwtq. I don't have slicks so I ran with my street tires. Eventually I have to go to the dyno shop and have my guy peek at the motor to find out what the specs are so he can make further adjustments.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-Po
I'm actually glad I only made one run. On the way home was when the diff started making loud noises. But I made it home OK.
NOW it looks like it's gonna rain. Oh well. My car needed a good wash. :shrug:
Hows he going to figure the cam specs out? Good luck, I think it has alittle more in it then that. Do you know the race weight of the goat?
Been raining on/off again all day here. Ive been in the garage barn all day drinking beer. I have the TA up on jack stands and the front suspension loaded. Trying to get this pinion angle right, but have zero ambition to do it right now.
He told me he has to take a plate or something off the back of the manifold or take the manifold off and take the valve covers off to see if there are other aftermarket parts besides the cam(lifters, valves, pushrods) and raise the rev limiter. The way my car is tuned right now is considered "conservative" as to not blow the motor up. I dunno what the raceweight is at this time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-Po