Looks good.
Printable View
Looks good.
I 1st read this and thought.."wtf is wrong with this guy? That's a NOS bottle." Then I noticed the speaker grille and the bass port on the bottom. I had a set of two 10" bazooka's in 1 of my old cars back in the day with a 300 watt amp. They sound really good and can be removed if you need the extra space. I did find a better sound from them if you face the sub to the rear, and move it about 7-10" away from any given wall so the sound can reflect. It will increase the bass twice as much. Just any fyi. Unstrap it any spin the baby and I bet it will sound better. Cool sub btw!
Thanks Ron, I tested out several different positions for this sub. Apparently the ideal position for this sub is facing a rear corner, I found that in the trunk space where the T-Tops are stored gives off the best sound. Of course I don't like the idea of not having anywhere to store my tops so up top was where it had to go. I tried out what you are suggesting but couldn't get it to work without getting rid of the divider. I also did not want the nozzle sticking over the seat, you can't tell but the line coming out of nozzle is the sub wiring. In the end having the sub facing to the left gives the driver the best overall sound, probably a combination of the 6.5" pyle sub in the l/s sail panel,(I know OP said r/s but I meant l/s), and the 8" sub facing into somewhat of a corner,(with the hatch closed and the divider in normal position). It's probably all in my head but I tried several different setups and this worked best. In the end my Lil Man in the passenger seat doesn't complain and that's what really matters.
[QUOTE=robcas47;2861156]Thanks Ron, I tested out several different positions for this sub. Apparently the ideal position for this sub is facing a rear corner, I found that in the trunk space where the T-Tops are stored gives off the best sound. Of course I don't like the idea of not having anywhere to store my tops so up top was where it had to go. I tried out what you are suggesting but couldn't get it to work without getting rid of the divider. I also did not want the nozzle sticking over the seat, you can't tell but the line coming out of nozzle is the sub wiring. In the end having the sub facing to the left gives the driver the best overall sound, probably a combination of the 6.5" pyle sub in the l/s sail panel,(I know OP said r/s but I meant l/s), and the 8" sub facing into somewhat of a corner,(with the hatch closed and the divider in normal position). It's probably all in my head but I tried several different setups and this worked best. In the end my Lil Man in the passenger seat doesn't complain and that's what really matters.[/QUOT
That's cool. I didn't know about the wiring getting in the way, and cosmetically it looks bad a$$. I made up a 12" sub box that sits in the same place yours is, because I also want to be able to store my t-tops so they don't get broken. I actually have my sub box facing the rear and painted the box a flat black so even when you try to look through the tinted rear window, you cant tell what is in there. It sticks up just a tad over the rear seat, so even from the front windshield, none is the wiser. That way the lil hood theives wont try and steal my stuff.
Try this. Custom box that fits in the rear corner. You can cut it to fit 12", but I had a 10" already so.....Sounds really good with 1000w behind it. Perfect spot for it.
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/...psa7852ec9.jpg
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/...psa4129de7.jpg
I thought about making a sub box for that spot!! I wouldn't go any bigger then a 10" sub though, not much box space for the 12" to breath. I also made up a board from mdf wood and mounted it below the latch for the hatch, then covered in the same color carpet of the trunk. Hide all the wiring behind the board for a nice custom look.
Years ago, I had a Kicker Solobaric sub mounted that way in an Eagle Talon. They hyped them for the small enclosures that could be utilized -- I think the catch phrase was "all the bass in half the space" or something like that.
I like the Stealth Box and had a couple 10" subs laying around but decided to go with the Bazooka sub mainly to try something different. I also wanted to use the stock amp for now and it pushes the 8" just fine for my liking. Very nice setup up Nutball
*whistles* There's a 4th one hidden under the box firing down..
https://sphotos-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/h...781_5860_n.jpg
^^ Is that the '97?
was. I kept the box, but I believe it's since then been burnt. No big deal to build anything like that, though.
Cleaned up the engine bay after the body shop left it a mess.
http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...psc50c62f5.jpg
Hey, Ben. Do you have any more pictures of your car I can browse? I'm considering that color for my 78.
Hope these help. If you want something specific, let me know!
http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8dd7e855.jpg
http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...psa1214469.jpg
http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...ps868032d4.jpg
http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...psc08f5439.jpg
http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...sAm/Track2.jpg
http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...m/IMG_4344.jpg
Sharp car. Still don't know what I want! :nilly:
Man...I wonder if I didn't own a MRM 97 Formula...
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0052_large.jpg
If you don't like showing your amp off to the world, you could always mount it under the latch between the tail lights. There's a support bar that runs between the lights that you can tie into. Here's what it looks like and there's enough room to still store your t-tops.
http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...ransAm/amp.jpg
And take the extra step to his the wires and use a utility knife to cut a slit for your wires to come out of.
Thanks to Ramey and UMI's outstanding customer service, replaced a bushing for rear sway bar( First one didn't fit quite right). fixed a rear axle seal on my Moser, and put in the new UMI adjustable torque arm, and torque arm relocation bracket.